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...there is nothing better than a proper giant on the table - looking great so far!!

 Boss Salvage wrote:
Happy to help! And even happier to see more of Duncan's prints in the wild - Royce looks great already. How did his back rolls survive all those supports? I'm not really sure with how invasive FDM supports are on mini details.

Yeah.....lots of scars on the back. I’ve been waiting to show that off and ask for some guidance there. Almost wondering if using the cutting feature to cut each part in half and then putting the supports on the cut sides to get all around clean prints would be helpful, just time consuming.

Legs and left foot are done, club and right hand are printing now leaving only left hand and right foot to print.

Up next is his naked brother who has no problem showing off his junk . You think the army around him would sew him a uniform so they wouldn’t have to see that.

Wow. That's a cool design. Properly immense, too. Looking forward to seeing it all together and painted.

Assembeled yes, painted . Held together temporarily by poster tack.

Sometimes they forget leg day in the giant lands.


Printing some mods for the Ender and then will start on Hill giant #2

Maybe he's only half-giant? The top half?

Two of these big guys on the table is going to be impressive.

“He’s a giant!”

“Well she’s never said that “

Giant two is printed. Had some issues with the print of the body. Looks like mold slippage if it was a poured model. I guess the print bed or the whole model slipped at least twice during the print.ill give him a prime coat later, having our roof replaced now, so no safe way outside without having shingles drop on my head.

He looks angry....and naked....like someone stole his rubber ducky out of the pond while he was taking his yearly bath. I a man really tempted to make him a bath towel and a bar of soap and put him on a water base.

Started painting the other guy, was trying a lighter skin tone. Not really happy with it, but it’s just a start right now.

Monty and Full-Monty, the giant brothers. I think the skintone looks pretty good.

I love that guy!! Great job and will be a great addition.

Here are a couple of giants I found on Thingiverse. One was a chaos giant that I modified a bit to make it not so 'chaosy' which was printed in 3 parts on my Elegoo Mars with a Elven Seaguard for scale. The other was done on my Ender 3 and with a smaller version of it. And finally, a comparison between a resin print and FDM print of the fellow.

Nice , those are the types of side by side that I don’t normally see. It really showcases the difference, but also lets people who see know that if they are going for RPG models and not centerpiece displays that a FDM can handle things. I think it’s very similar to Bones material. FDM is good at larger models, but the smaller models lose some of that detail.

Printing a Wall switchplate cover right now ipwith the Batman Logo on it. Going to surprise the Pastor at church by swapping his out with this new one. He has hotwheels batmobiles and Lego Star Wars figures on his desk, so I think it will fit in great.

MSDW, found that same chaos giant model online , started to print him out. He’s a head height larger than the two guys I just printed. Same guy does a nice giant fuzzy elephant with optional warbus attachment on the back .



When things go sideways, they go sideways fast.

Replaced multiple nozzles, wound up being the Bowden tube assembly.
Got new Bowden tube replaced it, still issues.
Leveled, releveled, rereleveled the print bed, still popping prints.
Realized that when I was moving the unit around to make adjustments the spool fell off the top and smacked the print bed. Loosened the y axis nuts on one side so tightened them down.
Still popping prints
Adjust, adjust, adjust. Popping prints while my back I started turned.

Ing cat climbs onto the desk while I’m printing......your messing with it when I leave aren’t you .

Sometimes it’s just being at the right place at the right time.

Plus now I’m printing most things on rafts to help with bed adhesion.

FDM printing comes with a whole list of potentials to deal with. I actually hate to fire up my Ender 3 when there is any possible way i can do it (even in multiple parts) on my Elegoo Mars.

Not to say the Ender 3 is not an outstanding printer (it is!), it is just so much more finicky that resin printing. You should have seen the issues and quality I was getting out of an A8 clone kit I had before I got my Ender - what a better printer the Ender is!! Keep at it, you will get it all looking good!

And, yes, EamannG is an amazing designer - here is the mammoth w/ armor, but not the howdah.

Awesome , yep, he has some amazing designs.

The Mammoth is great looking, right now I have his Shaggoth printing, or started to print before I left to grab groceries.

I have overcome one of the issues by printing everything on rafts with supports. It’s a waste of material, but it I should saving material by not having parts pop off the bed half way through a print. The cost of materials for FDM is so cheap that wasting any isn’t too bad.

Day 1 of Ender 3 ownership. 13 hours sitting in front of it watching many things go very wrong...

Turns out the Z axis motor hadn't been set up properly, fixed that and finally managed to get a clean print of something other than a base. Just a Space Marine shoulder pad (mainly for troubleshooting as it's a fast print of something I'm very familiar with), but still, progress is progress and once it worked, it's actually come out really crisp. With any luck, today's setup and calibration efforts should translate into proper minis actually working tomorrow... though probably not before a lot more swearing!

There is an Ender 3 x axis print which is two parts, it’s a small design fix, but definitely improves to outcome.

Well, the upper body is printed, 6hours. He’s a hoss. His body is printing now, it’s 12 hours on the lowest setting for quality . Overall the body section is 6” long by 5” tall by 2.5” across. It should be done when I get back from church tomorrow. Fingers crossed that the cat doesn’t mess with it .

Before starting the lower half of the Shaggoth I decided to print an evil Mutant.

Enter Apocalypse. Fan sculpt, he’s 50mm to the top of his head, supposedly scaled to 35mm figs. More evil mutants in the future, including myself in tights.

Almost master of the world . Those rotten X-men always getting in the way of things .

11.5 hours into the bottom of the Shaggoth now, at 99%, it’ll take hours to remove the supports .

Pics later, or in my other thread.

Temporarily stuck together with poster tack, but he is big. 140mm toe to top of horn. 170mm long so far, but two tail sections each about 100mm to add on.

That giant doesn’t look so tough now does he .

Whoa. Dat Shaggoth. Apocalypse looks good, too.

A decent mini print with 48 hours of setup, I'll take it. Realised that my big issue yesterday was that I'd forgotten to set a bed temperature, so nothing was adhering even with a brim. Sorted that, and voila:


Not the most exciting, and still needs a bit of cleanup, but I'll take it for a first successful print. Done a hag and a 9 part Marine since then, all went well. Let the addiction commence!

Nice skeleton .

It’s th pe little things that mess us up. I’ve taken to setting special parameters for getting these models done, and when I forget one part and then wipe it out of the computer to save space only to see the print wrong because I set a parameter wrong it drives me nuts.

HAMMER TIME!!!

Reprinted the top of the hammer again, while hamfistedly trying to desupport it I broke the upper handle in two spots . I got it glued back together, but the handle I still mostly hollow so the heavier top means it won’t hold forever.

Have a print of myself going right now. Won’t be done for a while, so you’ll see me in all my glory tomorrow.

I have a few projects lined up and ready, but might change my genre again. I found some interesting alien flora but also have some Asian inspired stuff too. Not sure what path I will go on, or continue the dark chaos road.

Yeah, once you get the Ender dialed in, it does some of the best FDM work possible, IMHO.

I think it looks like your paint job on your giant smoothed it out quite a bit and looks good - I had usually added a bit of white glue to my paint for the undercoat to help smooth the lines and to strengthen the print, especially for smaller minis. Not sure if you just painted it straight up, but it looks really good!

Since I have the two printers, all large terrain and stuff is on the Ender and every other possible thing that will fit on the smaller plate goes resin.

Ender 3 folks, any tips on larger prints to save time/material without hurting quality? I've currently got layer height at 0.08, infill at 50% and that's working great for smaller minis, but when I slice larger ones i'm often looking at 20hr plus print times, and I don't have the CAD skills to cut the files into smaller parts if they don't come like that. So if I can cut down time without losing detail, that seems appealing.

Failing that, is using the Ender's Pause/Resume Print function multiple times during a large print safe/advisable? I'm not really comfortable leaving it running overnight just yet.

 Paradigm wrote:
Ender 3 folks, any tips on larger prints to save time/material without hurting quality? I've currently got layer height at 0.08, infill at 50% and that's working great for smaller minis, but when I slice larger ones i'm often looking at 20hr plus print times, and I don't have the CAD skills to cut the files into smaller parts if they don't come like that. So if I can cut down time without losing detail, that seems appealing.

Failing that, is using the Ender's Pause/Resume Print function multiple times during a large print safe/advisable? I'm not really comfortable leaving it running overnight just yet.

50% . Wow, all my models I’m printing at 5-10%...I did break the handle on the hammer of the Shaggoth, but that was because I was snipping too close and trying to cut a bunch of supports all at once.

I’ve only paused once or twice, but no issue with the prints from doing that.



Also, had an issue today with my micro sd cards. I downloaded some gcodes ontoone to print and all the files changed to gobbledygook. I had to completely erase and reformat it. The second card did the exact same thing. Frustrated as I had sliced 30+ files and saved them in the cards then deleted the files off astroprint to open up space. I have to reload the files, reslice them and start from scratch. Just a waste of time.

Huh, maybe I've been overestimating how much infill contributes to sturdiness then. I'd read not to go higher than 50 for most stuff, but that for minis, 30-50% was the ideal range to get good,durability and weight. Might try it much lower on a print tomorrow, see if that saves much time/filament or has any negative effect on quality, as so far I'm really happy with how my prints are coming out.

 Paradigm wrote:
Huh, maybe I've been overestimating how much infill contributes to sturdiness then. I'd read not to go higher than 50 for most stuff, but that for minis, 30-50% was the ideal range to get good,durability and weight. Might try it much lower on a print tomorrow, see if that saves much time/filament or has any negative effect on quality, as so far I'm really happy with how my prints are coming out.

All I know isn’t a lot of terrain and model designers post that they print “this model” with 10% infill and no supports. I’m sure depending upon handling more infill is probably better, but even a few videos showed the difference between no infill, 5, 10 and 20%. I did look at doing some bases at 30%, but the time used on a 2mm thick base was in the tens of hours .

Yeah, I am around the 10-20% infill group, unless printing a part that needs to be extra sturdy.

You can increase the speed, but will find that can affect the final quality more than anything. Faster = sloppy

Good to know. Doing a Bigby's Hand spell marker now with a lower infill and 0.12 layer height, so I'll see how it goes. I think it cut the print time from 6 to 3 hours, so if the result is still good I guess I'll switch my default settings closer to that (though for smaller minis,I don't fancy having the layer height larger than I need to)

I'll leave the speed as is, don't want to trade quality for pace.

So 5% infill in a Goldfish is still strong enough to support a metal rider on top . These are the types of sentences I can hear coming out of a wise Oriental monk .





Where does one find a saddle maker who specializes in Goldfish?

I'm not Drunk.....
I haven't had anything alcoholic to drink today or this week.....
I might need something....
Because, This being a female Samurai Model, I'm tempted to call her Han......The Golden Samurai-Ko (I think that's the proper term for a Female Samurai).

That way she can be nicknamed..........Goldie Han

When she gets into Big Trouble she can call on her Ronin Samurai Jack.

Now I need Ronin Samurai Jack to Ride on a Pig (Pork Chop Express)...... Which as I'm typing this I remember I found some farm animals at the Dollar store a few weeks ago.....including a Pig.

Though I will do a search for a printable one.


This is how the mind of Theo works......

Tremble in FEAR .

This is bonkers, continue! I like the idea of mystical animal riding samurai very much.

Samurai riding goldfish and Eastern dragons. Sounds great to me.

Is this a good thread for asking for help?

We set up an sender 3 pro...well, my brother and his wife put it together without my knowing, and after three days he is completely frustrated.

For the first two days, everything has been shifting sideways during the print. After significant tinkering and choosing a new file, we have this (see picture).
Any clue what’s going wrong?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
You can see how it should look in the bottom centimeter.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
(Constellation from Star Citizen, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2836414 )

Bob, glad you popped in here .

What software are you using to slice the file?

What type of filament are you using?

What temperature do you have the nozzle and bed set at?

Lastly I think the model definitely needs supports.

I would try reslicing the file and changing the filament settings in the program. I usually try to print horizontal more than vertical as it reduces the torque on the model which might be shifting it on the build plate. The bed temperature settings are really important as well as I have found out the hard way early on. Most spools of filament will have a card that comes with it suggesting what temperature ranges to use while printing.

Try a smaller file first, both to save material and key in on issues. The Ender 3 usually have test prints preloaded on the memory cards they come with. Try one of those. They have less details, but will help show where the issues are off the bat easier.