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Wow, great idea, I will most definately use this.


Thanks!

Dude! Get a mod to move this thread to the tutorial section where it belongs! Looking great man! Good work.

I like this. I used to do this same thing when I started the hobby. Apart from I used too much plastic, not enough glue and basically mooshed it into the holes in my conversions.

Malika2 wrote:Dude! Get a mod to move this thread to the tutorial section where it belongs! Looking great man! Good work.

Ahhh nuts! I thought I posted it in the Tutorial section...not paying attention properly.
I will ask them to move it for me...thanks for pointing my error out Malika2.

EDIT: Mods alerted.

Great tip, and a good looking tutorial, thanks for sharing!

Wow, that is a great idea I never had! I tried using the glue to melt/smooth things before, but it never occured to me to shave a little sprue into it for the process.

Brilliant!

I bet it holds up a lot better than GS also being that it's melted plastic. Good find and YES, get this into the tutorials section please mods.

Thanks for sharing!

That's awesome! I'll have to give it a try.

LBursley wrote:I bet it holds up a lot better than GS also being that it's melted plastic. Good find and YES, get this into the tutorials section please mods.

Thanks for sharing!

Makes for nice solid joints.

how do you keep the brush from being ruined ?

Thanks man!
This is so much better than using GS because it comes with the kit unlike GS.

What is the glue used for normally, and where are common places to get it? Is it sometimes called by another name??

I'm unfamiliar with this, and would happily use this technique if I could get started!

I can't speak for Cypher but I've done this with regular old model glue. It looks like he just has a liquid model glue you can get at any hobby store.

Clever idea, and the fumes make it doubly enjoyable!

rodfarruguia wrote:how do you keep the brush from being ruined ?

Unfortunately you can't...that is why I did specify using an 'old' paintbrush or one specifically for the task. Even then though, as long as you dip the brush in the glue before finishing to remove all traces of plastic and dry the brush on some paper towel it will last a good while.

TheNornQueen wrote:
What is the glue used for normally, and where are common places to get it? Is it sometimes called by another name??
I'm unfamiliar with this, and would happily use this technique if I could get started!

It's just regular polystyrene cement...available at most good hobby stores. Humbrol is a global company so it should be easily available. Revell and Testors also produce it and probably a hundred other smaller manufacturers. If all else fails check out ebay.

One important note...make sure it is 'liquid'...it comes in bottles (normally with a built in brush in the lid that I don't use...too big) and is the consistency of water...if it's in a tube you have the wrong stuff!

Thanks for everybodies comments...glad you like the tutorial.

legoburner wrote:Clever idea, and the fumes make it doubly enjoyable!

Now we know what you are doing on those weekends you won't come out of your hobby area!

Hm, I have looked in every craftstore around and cannot find anything that works. (in amercia)

Anyone know of an american brand I should be looking for?

archite666 wrote:Hm, I have looked in every craftstore around and cannot find anything that works. (in amercia)

Anyone know of an american brand I should be looking for?

Testors Liquid Cement. You can find this in any hobby store in the model section.

I just tried this with Testors Cement, but I can't get the plastic to "melt" down like the example. It stays pretty solid.

I'll keep testing it and see if I can get it working though...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I apologize for digging up an older post, but this is a pretty cool technique (if it works).

This could mean............ THE END OF GREENSTUFF!
<horror music>Duhn Duhn duhhhhhhh!

It might just do that.

I've used a low grit sand paper to make "fairy sprue dust" that I can then mix with glue. I use so much of it that now I keep a little tupperware of it & sprinkle it on whenever I want it. Just apply it like flock, wait for it to melt and attach whatever the next bit it. I first started using it to glue SM torsos to legs, but now I use it for anything I need to.

InquisitorMack wrote:I've used a low grit sand paper to make "fairy sprue dust" that I can then mix with glue. I use so much of it that now I keep a little tupperware of it & sprinkle it on whenever I want it. Just apply it like flock, wait for it to melt and attach whatever the next bit it. I first started using it to glue SM torsos to legs, but now I use it for anything I need to.

Nice idea I need to steal try this

What type of glue do you use btw? Is it just a regular cement?

I've been told that there's other better glues, but I only buy glue 1-2 a year so I don't have much experience, except that it beats the pants off of instant glue.

I find this soo useful

Sorry to hear you guys are having problems finding the right glue. It normally comes in glass bottles with a screw-top lid. Looking at the testors picture above this is the wrong type as it is quite thick and not nearly aggressive enough.

I have heard some products in the States called 'Plastic Weld' but the Testors product you need to look for is Testors Number 3502. It will be very watery and will normally have an applicator brush built into the screw top lid. Hope this helps.

Yep, Liquid poly has many uses - apart from simply gluing models together.

For example:

I use Squadron Green putty for filling generally. It comes in a tube and has a toothpaste like consistency.
Except, it can be thinned with liquid poly to the consistency more like paint, and then painted into small cracks, gaps and surface-defected resin casts (mainly what I've used it on).
It then dries VERY hard in a couple of hours and can be sanded AND DRILLED.

Sets much harder than GS (which never truly hardens). Modelmakers have been using this combo for the last thirty-odd years (at least).

I've occasionally used the fine plastic grit left from sanding a plastic model mixed with poly to get the same effect as this, too.

The glue pictured Cypher was in relation to something else.

I quite like the Testors plastic cement. Never had a problem with it. Bonds tightly in about 10 seconds, can be grabbing most models by the glued part in less than 30 seconds and can even throw them into a ziplock baggy all haphazard like in about an hour.

I've used Testors to glue gaunts together and 45 minutes later they went into a plastic bag and when I took them out not a single broken or loose joint.

I think Tamiya makes a plastic cement but they all work on the same basic principle so not sure if one is really better than the other.