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Made in us
[SWAP SHOP MOD]
Barpharanges






Limbo

So given that I've been planning on doing some GS work on my Nids (thanks 8e for getting me back on the plastic-crack bandwagon), I've been wondering:

In a lot of blogs etc. online, I see folk who seem to be able to really smoothly and thinly fill in gaps in models (for instance, the gaps between the torso portions of a Hive Tyrant or Carnifex) with GS. I have never managed to get GS to spread that thinly/smoothly before.

Anybody have tips on how I can not suck at GS gap-filling?

DS:80S+GM--B++I+Pwhfb/re#+D++A++/fWD-R+++T(O)DM+++

Madness and genius are separated by degrees of success.

Remember to follow the Swap Shop Rules and Guidelines! 
   
Made in de
Experienced Maneater






Roll thin GS rolls, stick them on the gaps and slightly press them in, smooth everything out with modelling tools (metal or the rubber tip ones). Use water so it doesn't stick to your tools.

   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan





Denver, Colorado

I actually recommend Vaseline for working with GS. You can get it pretty smooth with just your fingers that way.

"Hope is the first step on the road to disappointment." Words to live by. 
   
Made in us
Vlad_the_Rotten






I was using water for quite a while, but I recently finally overcame my fear of Vaseline. I love it now. I do my rolling and cutting on the glass plate from an alarm clock, smeared in Vaseline.
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





I mix mine 50% green stuff and 50% fine milliput then you can use water and a paint brush to smooth it out the mix feels abit like clay
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

Watering the tools works well like for the various inexpensive dental tools.
Clay sculpting tools / shapers like the silicone ones work for smoothing it out as well.

You can always let it dry and then sand it flat later as well.


A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in us
Vlad_the_Rotten






Greenstuff really likes to gunk up sanding surfaces, however.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Gig Harbor, WA

I use modelers putty for small areas. Greenstuff is more for larger gaps that also need some structural support.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Fireknife Shas'el





Leicester

In for another vote for Vaseline; only tried it recently and holy hell, does it make a difference! You don't need to slather the model in it, just periodically dip your sculpting tool in it, to get a thin coating, and that will transfer enough to the green stuff. All of a sudden it will be easy to move and shape and you'll get a mirro smooth finish.

DS:80+S+GM+B+I+Pw40k08D+A++WD355R+T(M)DM+
 Zed wrote:
*All statements reflect my opinion at this moment. if some sort of pretty new model gets released (or if I change my mind at random) I reserve the right to jump on any bandwagon at will.
 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





You can also sand the greenstuff and milliput mix without it gunking up and it can take a sharper edge imo
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

 Salabasama wrote:
Greenstuff really likes to gunk up sanding surfaces, however.
I find they do not gunk up sanding surfaces if given sufficient time to dry.
At least overnight.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I second clay sculpting tools. Once I discovered these, green stuff became much more attractive.

 Talizvar wrote:
Watering the tools works well like for the various inexpensive dental tools.
Clay sculpting tools / shapers like the silicone ones work for smoothing it out as well.

You can always let it dry and then sand it flat later as well.

   
 
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