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Made in us
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought




San Jose, CA

So after a fair amount of thought and flipflopping, I decided to take the plunge and ordered a bunch of stuff from them.

I am pretty confident about my hobbying skills and have watched a few tutorials, but I just would like a consensus on working with the 2 together.

any help or tips/tricks will be muy apricidad.

Thanks Dakkadakka.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Dont buy forgeworld EVER. They are thieves and no good people!!!!!!!

But if you must use some of their stuff super glue should work fine conecting both pieces together. Also FW does not bother with quailty control or washing the release agent off their models so you will need to soak them in a bath of soapy water.

Also most straight pieces will be in a near circle so you will need to have boiling water on hand to straighten their jobs.

Then you will need green stuff because most large pieces are so warped you will need a good amount of gap filler.

Also they tend to fill the mold in places such as the tip of a nose or finger or in the giant squgs case where a spike is going to be so you will need files, or a sander

But since you spend nearly 100$ for a single figure they do include a photocopy of the instructions and a sandwich baggy which will insure all small thin pieces will break in shipping.

Happy buying.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/12/07 21:12:59


I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






I mean...why even bother posting that response? Its not helpful to post exaggerated claims like that, especially when he's just asking for advice.

To the OP, a large part of it will depend on what you order, because the quality will vary depending on how recent it is. Across the board, its best to go ahead and wash the resin pieces in soap/water, scrubbing shiny areas if there are any with an old toothbrush. If a piece is bent, boiling water and a quick dip will make it just malleable enough to correct.

A lot of the newer kits have very large chunks of resin that require very little cleanup and gap filling. The instruction books are super high quality, full color and coded with lots of info. Older kits typically have less impressive instructions.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/07 21:23:55


   
Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






Get a good quality superglue.
Allso big pices should be pinned.

darkswordminiatures.com
gamersgrass.com
Collects: Wild West Exodus, SW Armada/Legion. Adeptus Titanicus, Dust1947. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Zach wrote:
I mean...why even bother posting that response? Its not helpful to post exaggerated claims like that, especially when he's just asking for advice.

To the OP, a large part of it will depend on what you order, because the quality will vary depending on how recent it is. Across the board, its best to go ahead and wash the resin pieces in soap/water, scrubbing shiny areas if there are any with an old toothbrush. If a piece is bent, boiling water and a quick dip will make it just malleable enough to correct.

A lot of the newer kits have very large chunks of resin that require very little cleanup and gap filling. The instruction books are super high quality, full color and coded with lots of info. Older kits typically have less impressive instructions.


What? I told him everything

wash
green stuff
super glue
boiling water
and being ready to try and glue together 4 parts of a standard like in the warmammoth case.

I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






What a response.

I mean sure kits depending on the age of the mold will often come with defects and plenty of warping but it heavily depends on the kit.

And whatever happens especially on anything with reasonable errors will often be fully replaced with a quick email or phone call.

iv never had an issue with their customer service.

as for building its resin to plastic. you need to super glue it.

Id suggest pins and a good gel glue like the blue cap gorilla stuff.

warping can be dealt with a hair drier and or boiling water for thicker stuff.

its also useful to have a jewlers saw because the sprue gates for the bigger kits are often too much for basic hobby clippers.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/07 21:31:23


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Desubot wrote:
What a response.

I mean sure kits depending on the age of the mold will often come with defects and plenty of warping but it heavily depends on the kit.

And whatever happens especially on anything with reasonable errors will often be fully replaced with a quick email or phone call.

iv never had an issue with their customer service.

as for building its resin to plastic. you need to super glue it.

Id suggest pins and a good gel glue like the blue cap gorilla stuff.

warping can be dealt with a hair drier and or boiling water for thicker stuff.

its also useful to have a jewlers saw because the sprue gates for the bigger kits are often too much for basic hobby clippers.
Gorilla glue makes one with a brush or nosel now it is the best way to go for control I think.

But about the they replace it part. They made me pay taxes on the full 400$ model at the door, when I had a replacement door shipped to me. So I payed

Fw: Taxes "local" shipping and import fee"
At door . taxes and import fee contacted FW told to go bone myself. Even tho I had reciet that I had to pay again.
Had a broken door contacted had it shipped to me for free " had to pay taxes and import fee on the whole model because FW claimed it on the shipping label.

In total 15% tax 3 times, import fee twice and shipping at 15 % total 450$ order came too. 202 in taxes 67.50 in shipping. and 200 ish dollars for import fees. Totasl BSed by FW = $469.5$ When contacting FW I was told I could send it back to them at my expense for a refund of my 450$ model.

So FW model 450$+ 469.5$ = 1919.5$

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/07 21:42:21


I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Well thats a bumber.

We had a 600$ order of indexs and a whole Destroyer kit and a whole line of air paints replaced for free. no additional taxs or charges.

maybe its some BS local law thing.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Desubot wrote:
Well thats a bumber.

We had a 600$ order of indexs and a whole Destroyer kit and a whole line of air paints replaced for free. no additional taxs or charges.

maybe its some BS local law thing.
Well this was over 3 years ago but the cuts still burn along with my wifes sculding :(.. They probly did improve since then but my advice before you buy make sure import and taxes are paid so you dont get a surprise like i did at the door.

I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Sounds like you just got cheesed :/

but yeah nothing wrong with checking,.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

Racerguy180 wrote:
So after a fair amount of thought and flipflopping, I decided to take the plunge and ordered a bunch of stuff from them.
I am pretty confident about my hobbying skills and have watched a few tutorials, but I just would like a consensus on working with the 2 together.
any help or tips/tricks will be muy apricidad.
Thanks Dakkadakka.
Well, the more hysterical post has strong cores of truth to it.

Cleaning the resin is important, the mold release can be pretty resistant to glue or paint if not cleaned well.

The sprue joins are not as elegant as injection mold plastic so a bit of forming / sanding will be needed and yes, some gap filling.

I also agree that pinning is a good safety thing to do.

Very thin parts will curl as stated so boiling water does set it right.
For really flimsy bits I would probably even swap out bits or make new ones out of card... I know, expensive parts should be able to use straight-up.
I know you probably want to add options or do some conversions but I find plastic is my #1 goto for dealing with things like thin sword replacement.

I also agree that "Gorilla Glue" is my goto for a strong bond.
I would strongly suggest roughly sanding the joins for more "tooth" to grip.
NOTE: Resin can be a strong lung irritant and bad for you so please wear a particle mask when sanding and some vacuuming may be a good idea after.

Please be VERY careful of having those models in a hot car in summer... take them inside please.
What will kill a pet will kill those models.

The parts mechanically mix OK but Forgeworld tends to make models slightly less heroic in scale than GW plastic (= "chubby") so some mixed scaling may look off.

Those are the only challenges I can think of, most of their models look really good to me so I occasional splurge on their stuff... making a habit of it could make you very poor however.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Customs are done by the country/state. FW have no control over what the government makes you pay - they cannot be held responsible and can’t refund it as they don’t get the customs money in the first place. The only way they could avoid it would be (illegally) marking the package as a gift, which is tax avoidance and DEFINITELY not advisable for a larger company. It’s a shame but it can’t be avoided :(

BabyRipper
   
Made in us
Happy We Found Our Primarch




USA

Just a few short tips...

The heat of the water is really key when getting the mould release agent off the resin. I have found that keeping it as hot as I can stand it while scrubbing works best. You will scrub all day on some pieces using luke warm water and it won't do much but can turn up the heat and just a light scrubbing removes it all. You can see and feel the stuff and it looks dull instead of shining and no longer feels slippery when it is removed. You can also fix most warped parts with hot water from the tap.

Use a good primer paint. If you notice it beading up, rather than bonding like it should, you need to wash it more thoroughly. I have had this happen twice on 2 parts of a model but it is rare if scrubbed well under truly hot water.

I have my complaints with some of FW's practices(mostly being pricey and late releasing new models) but they are pretty awesome where customer service is concerned. If you have a problem, with the parts missing or if something is damaged or won't take paint, then follow their instructions on filing a customer service claim and they replace it with virtually no questions asked. I have never paid shipping on any order over 260 pounds UK(free shipping is on anything over 260) and I have never paid anything AT ALL for any problem where they shipped me replacement parts. Again, it did not cost me anything, as in zero, and it was sent first class by UPS.

So good luck with your model and I doubt you will be bothered by any of the minor things that pop up unless you get a bad kit or are a total whiner. Let us see some pics when you finish.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/08 00:42:12


 
   
Made in fi
Locked in the Tower of Amareo





OgreChubbs wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
What a response.

I mean sure kits depending on the age of the mold will often come with defects and plenty of warping but it heavily depends on the kit.

And whatever happens especially on anything with reasonable errors will often be fully replaced with a quick email or phone call.

iv never had an issue with their customer service.

as for building its resin to plastic. you need to super glue it.

Id suggest pins and a good gel glue like the blue cap gorilla stuff.

warping can be dealt with a hair drier and or boiling water for thicker stuff.

its also useful to have a jewlers saw because the sprue gates for the bigger kits are often too much for basic hobby clippers.
Gorilla glue makes one with a brush or nosel now it is the best way to go for control I think.

But about the they replace it part. They made me pay taxes on the full 400$ model at the door, when I had a replacement door shipped to me. So I payed

Fw: Taxes "local" shipping and import fee"
At door . taxes and import fee contacted FW told to go bone myself. Even tho I had reciet that I had to pay again.
Had a broken door contacted had it shipped to me for free " had to pay taxes and import fee on the whole model because FW claimed it on the shipping label.

In total 15% tax 3 times, import fee twice and shipping at 15 % total 450$ order came too. 202 in taxes 67.50 in shipping. and 200 ish dollars for import fees. Totasl BSed by FW = $469.5$ When contacting FW I was told I could send it back to them at my expense for a refund of my 450$ model.

So FW model 450$+ 469.5$ = 1919.5$


Well that's hardly fault of FW that US tax system sucks. FW can't be held responsible for what non-UK countries do. In Finland you would not be paying one cent tax for replacement part. Original yes(well not from UK since we are at least so far bot within EU but let's say I would buy new car from say Japan. I would pay tax for it. If there's something defective from there replacement meanwhile would be tax free. Albeit I would be well advised to keep and if neccessary ask documents from company that it IS replacement parts) but never for replacement parts.

So what FW has stealen from you?

FW is not responsible for taxes nor do they have anything to say about them. What? You think FW should invade US and install new laws? With what army?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/08 06:49:30


2024 painted/bought: 109/109 
   
Made in us
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought




San Jose, CA

thanks to everybody for responding.

I ordered the Deimos pred infurnum, mk1c rhino, salamanders contemptor, & all salamanders upgrades except the land raider doors.

so pretty much all will be approx 50/50 resin:plastic.

I always wash my any model parts w soap & soft elec toothbrush.

I bought some green stuff and sculpting tools.

I have a ton of experience w plastic (tons of cars & some 40k) so I'm not new to it but this'll be my first resin builds so I want to do it right and look dope.

ive heard only good things from people about their customer service
   
Made in fi
Locked in the Tower of Amareo





Racerguy180 wrote:
thanks to everybody for responding.

I ordered the Deimos pred infurnum, mk1c rhino, salamanders contemptor, & all salamanders upgrades except the land raider doors.

so pretty much all will be approx 50/50 resin:plastic.

I always wash my any model parts w soap & soft elec toothbrush.

I bought some green stuff and sculpting tools.

I have a ton of experience w plastic (tons of cars & some 40k) so I'm not new to it but this'll be my first resin builds so I want to do it right and look dope.

ive heard only good things from people about their customer service


Those kits aren't too difficult. Contemptor is hardest and if you settle for less dynamic pose it helps.

Torso's, shoulder pads, rhino doors etc are dirt easy.

Rhino and predator shouldn't be too hard either. Just be careful with aligning them and watch they don't move while drying.

And yes FW customer service is top notch. Anything is broken/missing you have no trouble getting new one if you feel like you need(I have never bothered with pieces like imperfections on tracks you don't actually see unless you flip tank over upside down)

2024 painted/bought: 109/109 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





tneva82 wrote:
FW is not responsible for taxes nor do they have anything to say about them.
I don't think FW are above reproach when it comes to taxes. For one they should be putting accurate values on their packaging (Ogre said they put the full model value on the packaging when they only shipped a door).

Secondly, FW don't remove VAT when they're shipping overseas. Unless I'm mistaken, FW prices include VAT for UK sales. But prices are identical regardless of where you buy it, they even go as far to point out for Australian sales GST is included, even though Oz GST is way less than UK VAT and doesn't need to be paid for imports under $1000AUD anyway. So FW are just pocketing the VAT for international sales and then if someone has to pay tax in their local country they're getting hit with that as well.
   
Made in us
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought




San Jose, CA

I'm really looking forward to building them and fully fleshing out my Salamanders.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent pose on the contemptor?

Was gonna go for standing w one foot crushing a large alien skull.
I can't wait till monday
   
Made in us
Steadfast Grey Hunter




AllSeeingSkink wrote:
tneva82 wrote:
FW is not responsible for taxes nor do they have anything to say about them.
I don't think FW are above reproach when it comes to taxes. For one they should be putting accurate values on their packaging (Ogre said they put the full model value on the packaging when they only shipped a door).

Secondly, FW don't remove VAT when they're shipping overseas. Unless I'm mistaken, FW prices include VAT for UK sales. But prices are identical regardless of where you buy it, they even go as far to point out for Australian sales GST is included, even though Oz GST is way less than UK VAT and doesn't need to be paid for imports under $1000AUD anyway. So FW are just pocketing the VAT for international sales and then if someone has to pay tax in their local country they're getting hit with that as well.


Forgeworld is incredibly disengenous IRT VAT. In the US they not only charge you full VAT prices from their store but then tag you for local sales tax. You effectively have a 20% price increase as they report zero VAT collected on their invoices.
   
Made in us
Stealthy Grot Snipa





Atlanta, GA

Racerguy180 wrote:
I'm really looking forward to building them and fully fleshing out my Salamanders.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a decent pose on the contemptor?

Was gonna go for standing w one foot crushing a large alien skull.
I can't wait till monday


Look up as many Contemptors online as you can for inspiration. Get ready to spend a long time dry-fitting parts, using sticky tack to stick them together for posing ideas, and using yourself as a "Would this look good in this pose?" model. Standing solidly with one foot on an alien skull shouldn't be too difficult, but the Contemptor comes in a lot of parts so poseability is pretty great.
   
Made in us
Ultramarine Librarian with Freaky Familiar





Southern California, USA

I've built a Forge World Legion Medusa and a Deimos Predator Executioner and both went together fine. Just remember to dry fit all of your parts to make sure everything is straight. I'd recommend filling in any mold slips/holes before putting them together. Also read the instructions very carefully because with the deimos kits you need to cut a few of the plastic track pieces.

Other than that you should be fine. In my experience Forge World models are pretty great except for the sometimes annoying placement of resin gates. On the Sicaran they have huge gates stuck to the tracks and removing them destroys detail. It's really irritating.

Thought for the day: Hope is the first step on the road to disappointment.
30k Ultramarines: 2000 pts
Bolt Action Germans: ~1200 pts
AOS Stormcast: Just starting.
The Empire : ~60-70 models.
1500 pts
: My Salamanders painting blog 16 Infantry and 2 Vehicles done so far!  
   
Made in us
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought




San Jose, CA

I've been working on my deimos pred and mk1c rhino and they've both had their issues.

MKIC rhino had a pretty good bend in both of the side plate and will need green stuff attention.

the pred had similar problems but was easy to fix.

both are in final stages of dryfitting and will need minor adjustments.

Thanks to everyone whom responded.
   
 
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