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Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator






So I've tried printing custom decals for my minis and failed miserably.

I used this Testor's paper and Testors' decal sealer. I printed and sealed the decals with no issues, but during application, they curled in on themselves, no matter what was tried. This isn't the question of the lack of skill as the person who tried to apply them is quite good at it. His supposition was that this decal paper is badly suited for small decals. So I'm inclined to blame the paper.

Can anyone suggest a better paper for small custom decals? (I'm printing badges to go on SM shoulder pads). It has to work for inkjet printers and be opaque as the decals will be going on a black background.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/08 22:16:39


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

I use a wet pallette to moisten decals. Try putting the decal flat on a wet sponge or something rather than immersing it, and teasing it flat as it curls.

 
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator






Tried that, still no go.
   
Made in jp
[DCM]
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Japan

I had a similar problems with these. I ended up applying Microsol (or rather, Mr. Mark Softer, a locally-available equivalent) and smoothing the edges down manually with an old brush. It was a little time consuming, but it worked.

Now showing a Harlequin Dreadnought!

Painting total as of 4/25/2024: 33 plus a set of modular spaceship terrain

Painting total for 2023: 79 plus 28 Battlemechs and a Dragon-Balrog

 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

I have never had an issue with Testor's but give a different brand a try.
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Philadelphia

I use the papers from Micromark

https://www.micromark.com/INKJET-DECAL-TRY-IT-PACK

They have a wide selection and I believe still sell a starter kit with softening and setting solution plus fixative. I used the basic kit for many different sets and types of marine decals. They worked perfectly.

Legio Suturvora 2000 points (painted)
30k Word Bearers 2000 points (in progress)
Daemonhunters 1000 points (painted)
Flesh Tearers 2000+ points (painted) - Balt GT '02 52nd; Balt GT '05 16th
Kabal of the Tortured Soul 2000+ points (painted) - Balt GT '08 85th; Mechanicon '09 12th
Greenwing 1000 points (painted) - Adepticon Team Tourny 2013

"There is rational thought here. It's just swimming through a sea of stupid and is often concealed from view by the waves of irrational conclusions." - Railguns 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





You might already being doing this, but for small decals cut through the decal paper over an area much larger area than the decal itself. Then cut through the decal close to the decal, but don't try and cut all the way through paper, just cut lightly, far enough to go through the film.

And use a really sharp knife while doing it so the decal actually gets cut rather than torn (just use a brand new blade).

Cutting decals out that way puts minimal stress in to the decal itself and the scrap bit of film should fall away easy enough when the decal is wetted out.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/10 03:55:29


 
   
Made in kr
Crushing Black Templar Crusader Pilot






Maybe change how you apply the decals?

I've used microsol and microset with pretty good results.
They can be a little labor intensive, and you've gotta religiously follow the instructions. However, the end result is always very nice if you're patient and just keep applying thin layers of microsol every couple of minutes.

When I've not had access to those, I've used the GW method of applying over a layer of 'ardcoat, then putting lhamaean medium over the top, and to be fair, it works fine.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/10 04:13:51


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






I use these often with few problems, you must keep it on the paper, get the edge close to the surface you’re applying to. The use a knife or tool to hold the decal in place while you pull the paper out from under it.
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator






Ended up ordering some sheets from Decalpaper.com... didn't have the "fold on itself" problem during the test phase thank goodness.

Real attempt coming soon...
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Riverside, CA USA

I've used Testors decal paper in the past to make nameplate decals for models with no issue, might have been a bad batch of paper or a bad batch of sealer (I've always used a regular gloss varnish instead of a special sealer). I usually get sheets of generic decal paper off Ebay now since the Testors stuff is a wierd half-sheet size, also with no issues
[Thumb - 48380967namedemo.jpg]


~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
 
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