Baneblade CountsAs

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**Elric Greywolf**

Anyone have any good Baneblade chassis alternate models?
Specifically the Shadowsword, with a longer barrel and a lower turret profile.

**Stormonu**

You might want to look at some 1/35 WW2 German model tanks, such as the Panzer IV, Tiger, King Tiger or various tank destroyer models such as the Jadgtiger or Elephant.

To make them properly 40K, though, you'll probably need to upside the barrels on the guns (with PVC pipes or dowels).

For a low turret profile, you might want to consider the German 80's tank the Leopard or its descendants. Again, you'll probably have to beef up the barrel for 40K.

**SirWeeble**

No matter what you buy, it will look odd vs normal 40k models. 40k tanks have exaggerated, stylized proportions. The tanks themselves are smaller than they should be. The barrels are thicker to make them look more powerful. The treads are wider.

Personally, I won't play against people with heavily proxied armies. A big part of the game is the style and appeal of a miniature battlefield. Do what you will with your own buck though.

**CREEEEEEEEED**

SirWeeble wrote:
No matter what you buy, it will look odd vs normal 40k models. 40k tanks have exaggerated, stylized proportions. The tanks themselves are smaller than they should be. The barrels are thicker to make them look more powerful. The treads are wider.

Personally, I won't play against people with heavily proxied armies. A big part of the game is the style and appeal of a miniature battlefield. Do what you will with your own buck though.

It's hard enough maintaining cognitive dissonance with the huge barrel calibres, I don't need a normal sized barrel to remind me how off the proportions are.

**Unit1126PLL**

Yeah, the GW models have a fairly unique aesthetic.

They generally remind me of pre-dreadnought battleships (with dozens of guns of all sorts of different calibres) mixed with World War II tanks (the same chassis with siege howitzers, artillery, anti-tank guns, etc. depending on what you need).

The proportions on GW tanks are wacky, the tanks are smaller on the table top than they ought to be given the infantry scale (so essentially the tanks are on their own scale different from the infantry) and they tend to be much much wider relative to their length. I've looked into using a neato 1/35th (or was it 48th?) scale Merkava IIa as a Leman Russ but it's a good inch or two inches skinnier while being about the same length...

**Corennus**

I feel as long as you get a model with the same ish proportions as the thing you are proxying it is ok to proxy.

I think though that a WW2 King Tiger tank with some added on kitbashed parts would do ok as a stand in.

**Elbows**

Also, worth noting you're better off looking for British tanks than German ones, and more WW1 or interwar than WW2.

If you're willing to spend some cash - get a nice kit and then invest in some aftermarket 40K-esque turrets/sponsons/weapons, etc.

**BrianDavion**

SirWeeble wrote:
No matter what you buy, it will look odd vs normal 40k models. 40k tanks have exaggerated, stylized proportions. The tanks themselves are smaller than they should be. The barrels are thicker to make them look more powerful. The treads are wider.

Personally, I won't play against people with heavily proxied armies. A big part of the game is the style and appeal of a miniature battlefield. Do what you will with your own buck though.

Keep in mind that the fluff is designed for proxying to an extent though, hence the referances to differant patterns of tanks etc

**Flinty**

You can probably get a decent low sling shadowsword.outof an Abrahms kit. The hull and turret shape are about right if you take the turret baseplate off and glue it straight to the hull. Then fit with your choice of plumbing pipework as a barrel

**Elric Greywolf**

Does anyone have any links to these kits they're recommending? I like the idea of an Abrams, I think it does have a similar profile. But where would I get one if HobbyTown doesn't have one? I'm leery of buying online bc I can't tell if the scale is right....

**Kanluwen**

Go check out "Squadron Shop". They're a mail order/websale company that has been around in one form or another for quite some time.

You can sort stuff by scale as well there, and as long as you aim for around 1:35th, you'll be fine.

**JohnnyHell**

Learn to scratch build! It's cheap, fun and you can knock out some great models with a little practice - see my plog in my sig!

**SickSix**

I know that Machinator sells some awesome bits on ebay to modify the Baneblade chasis. I just know of any really good whole replacement model.

Blood and Skulls industry ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/blood-and-skulls-industry

**Elbows**

Advice? Pick the most random, unknown tank you can find. A lot of 40K players are military history conscious and nothing yanks me out of the game more than seeing a poorly disguised Stug IV rolling around as an Ork battlewagon etc.

The overly common WW2 and modern tanks that everyone recognizes simply don't hide well enough in a 40K game without a lot of conversion (and I mean HEAAAAVY conversion).

Find a 1930's Interwar tank that you've never heard of before and you can probably get away with it.

**Stormonu**

Bah, just say it's a Forgeworld specific to your force - that uses retrograded STC designs known for their ancient battleworthiness.

Heck, GW's Imperial Standard recently referenced the Tyger tank, so it's design in known in-universe (mockingly, but still...)

**zephoid**

The problem is width of the baneblade vs length. IRL, wide tanks cause problems with excessive weight vs track area and have poor performance because of high ground pressure. Here are your options:

KV1: With the 76mm turret, you have a reasonable base. Add in track guards, sponsons, and a demolisher cannon mount and you have a reasonable start. Don't do this if you are using Ragnarok tanks in your army http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Ragnarok

Tunguska AA: The turret is all wrong, but you can strip out the cannons, add in center mounted tank cannons, then do the same as the KV1.

2x Churchill chassis. This is probably the best option, but you need 2 tanks. If building from a kit, you can weld the two chassis together and double up the tracks on the outside. You have track guards already, and can off center the main turret in one of the hull's turret mount. Extra track guards can be used as plating to cover the chassis welds or build up for the demolisher cannon mount. Sponsons easily mount on the track guards.

**Elric Greywolf**

Here's what I ended up getting, it's an old GI Joe toy. Building sponsons and painting is up next.

**deviantduck**

I'd cut the bump out on the backend off and it would be just about right. You could use the part you cut off as part of the sponsons.