Clear bases - verdict?

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**Sgt_Smudge**

What's Dakka's verdict on see through bases instead of black or based plastic?

Fully based models look great and everything, but sometimes you can end up with some very strange looking models on the tabletop - Guardsmen wading through thick slushy mud in the middle of a desert battlefield, Ultramarines based on snowy cold rocks as they fight in a lava chain, Kroot stalking though thick foliage as they run down the alleys and gantries of a Hive city.

Black bases can be a bit distracting, and a little hard on the eye, but transparent bases? Provided they were the same height and size of the original base, would there be a problem? They can fit onto any table, fulfil the same game purpose, and they're hardly a new thing to 40k tables - T'au drones and skimmers all have them.

Is this a bad idea in general, or a decent one?

**FrozenDwarf**

I have used 3mm clear base on some test models and trust me, it is not a visual style that suites all models(or players).
You use pva glue to attatch the model to the base cuz if yo use plastic glue, it will "frost/fog" the clear plastic.

Allso atleast on the 3mm base(clear comes in 1,5mm and 3mm thickness) there is a distinct magnifying effect of the table when you pickup the model to move it around. only when the base is firmly in contact whit the table is the magnifying effect gone.

In my search for basingstyles i have found out that there is not a single base design that will suit all 3 terrains: desert, ubran, wood.
clear could do it, but the disadvantages is IMO too great and they are better suited for board games.

so i belive it is better to just have the bases look out of place on some tables.

**greatbigtree**

Your models, do what you want.

I can appreciate that basing may not match the table, but t I still would prefer a finished base on the bottom to a clear base, but that's just personal preference. Gets right down to it, the base's function is to keep the model from falling over and to measure distances. Clear bases accomplish this as well as finished bases.

**sockwithaticket**

I don't think you really need our verdict, do what feels right for you.

I totally understand people finding bases that conflict with the table they're gaming on an issue and if you do a lot of gaming across a lot of different table types then it makes a huge amount of sense.

Have seen full armies based on clear and it's certainly better than plain black.

For me, as a non-gamer, I want my bases to tell a bit of the model's story, so I fully model and paint them.

**General Annoyance**

Clear bases is definitely a matter of preference. My personal preference is against the idea, as I much prefer a fully painted base, but that doesn't make clear bases a bad idea, especially if you plan on playing at places that could have a large board variety.

**Elbows**

I have used them only on a few things (namely sea-beasties), and I don't like them. I understand the initial thought process: "invisible bases which match anything!" - but the reality is that they scuff, fog up with glue, are reflective, etc...and basically end up looking way worse than normal basing. The concept is neat, but the execution is always lackluster.

You have identified why I dislike more "bizarre" basing choices. Huge granite columns, piles of cork, lava and gooey liquid bases, snow bases etc...all of these stand out massively on 90% of gaming tables (which, let's be honest are green/beige/brown).

**War Drone**

I really like clear bases on battlemats and colour-printed card surfaces like Battlesystem. Less so on more 3D or flocked/furry terrain for the reasons you stated.

**CREEEEEEEEED**

Its a no from me. Den of Imagination posted a primaris commission recently with amazing painting, but the guy who commissioned it had asked for clear bases and it looked god awful.

**nou**

There might be a different solution than using clear bases and yet stay "immune" to mismatching surfaces. It's just an untested idea, but you could 3D print "ring bases", consisting of only an outer ring to stay rules compliant with only two small platforms reaching inside to glue feet of your models onto. With carefull planing, such custom bases could be "tailored" for specific model poses and the rim can even be painted to match style of minis but at the same time be "transparent" to mats/tables below. This could also be done with lasercutting some hard mediums like plexi (if you fancy a "selected" pseudo-computer game look just go for the same type of "glow" effect plexi that kromlech uses for measures/counters).

**insaniak**

FrozenDwarf wrote:

You use pva glue to attatch the model to the base cuz if yo use plastic glue, it will "frost/fog" the clear plastic..

I think you have your glues confused. PVA glue is not ideal for gluing plastic, as it doesn't create a very strong bond on non-porous materials.
Plastic glue doesn't 'frost' clear plastic, but it won't work on acrylic - which is what most clear bases are made of.
Superglue does frost clear plastic if you use too much of it, but used sparingly will do the job just fine.

My main problem with commercially available clear bases is the same as my problem with currently available resin bases - they have flat bottoms, which don't sit well on any surface that isn't completely flat. Any bumps or irregularities in the surface, and the models don't stand up straight and can wobble about. A version of a standard slotta base, cast in transparent plastic? That I could get behind.

**JamesY**

Elbows wrote:

You have identified why I dislike more "bizarre" basing choices. Huge granite columns, piles of cork, lava and gooey liquid bases, snow bases etc...all of these stand out massively on 90% of gaming tables (which, let's be honest are green/beige/brown).

This is my main issue with a lot of what I see. If basing was toned down, it'd fit the table much better. A basing scheme that is simple and neutral will not stand out as odd on pretty much any gaming table. This doesn't mean it can't be well executed, it just doesn't need to stray into the realms of 32mm diorama for a non display piece.

**CREEEEEEEEED**

insaniak wrote:
My main problem with commercially available clear bases is the same as my problem with currently available resin bases - they have flat bottoms, which don't sit well on any surface that isn't completely flat. Any bumps or irregularities in the surface, and the models don't stand up straight and can wobble about. A version of a standard slotta base, cast in transparent plastic? That I could get behind.

Great, now I'm second guessing myself for deciding to get resin bases. But they look so cool. Is there a way of carving them out that would work?

**Modock**

I think you should decide to use them or not but since you're asking for advice, bases are very important to me. It's a huge part of the mini.
It completes the miniature and it adds the background/story. Miniature feels incomplete on a clear base.

**leopard**

Never got along with clear bases, have seen etched tinted clear ones for naval games that work pretty well, but for table top stuff?

nah, sounds a good idea if they were invisible, but they are so glossy they stand out more.

Black is harsh, have gone with a dull grey here for ones I have yet to work out what else to do with, and a black rim that can carry any marking needed

**CragHack**

They look ugly and lazy, imo. A good detailed base is as important as the cleaning and paintjob of the model itself.

**greatbigtree**

@ Creed:

You could "mill" them out, which is like a flat-nose drill bit, but the time/cost would be insane. Plus the material may not withstand the process. Probably would not withstand the process.

That said, you could have the resin bases moulded such that a "lip" was made on the bottom.

You might be able to use a very niche router (wood working tool) with a circular guide around it. Use the guide for the inner ring, then wiggle the base around to clear the inside. Less time consuming per piece but front-loads time to create the guide... but probably quicker overall and the higher rpm of the cutting tool might be more forgiving on the material.

**AllSeeingSkink**

I'm not a fan of clear bases for the fact imo they draw the eye too much. Instead of seeing a nice painted mini, I just see the shiny base.

My preference is for models based in a scenic fashion. But in cases where that's not appropriate (e.g. Dungeon crawler games) I actually like a flat black base. Not "unpainted", but cleaned up, texture removed and sprayed flat black.

Of course many war gamers will have an aneurism at the mere idea of a black base, but imo it's the best thing when you are trying to stop from drawing the eye. It's just wargamers have a stick up their backside about black bases looking "unfinished", even if you did happen to put in just as much effort as throwing some sand, paint and static grass at it.

I'll ocassionally make a black base for displaying aircraft models, so I don't see the big problem with black bases for miniatures.

**MacPhail**

I only have my Seraphim on them at the moment, and I don't love the look. As soon as I can I'm going to crank out a bunch of black plastic ones, detailed to match my army, with washers on the bottom for stability, and swap them out... but I'll be keeping the acrylic uprights.

**Z-Ray**

I'm apparently in the minority here and am happy with clear basing. however as somebody up thread said they work best on battle mats (like I play on) or boardgame tiles.

I use 1.5mm thick bases and I agree with a lot of what the others in this thread have said as it applies to thicker acrylic.

for gluing I use clear two part epoxy with just the smallest dot of superglue on a heal or toe tip (applied with a toothpick) to hold it in place until the epoxy dries.

**Badablack**

For clear bases, they look a hundred times better if you sand them down to a cloudy finish. You still get the color of the terrain below, but none of the nicks and scratches and glue marks, it grips the table better, and there’s no reflective shine.

**corpuschain**

Elbows wrote:
I have used them only on a few things (namely sea-beasties), and I don't like them. I understand the initial thought process: "invisible bases which match anything!" - but the reality is that they scuff, fog up with glue, are reflective, etc...and basically end up looking way worse than normal basing. The concept is neat, but the execution is always lackluster.

You have identified why I dislike more "bizarre" basing choices. Huge granite columns, piles of cork, lava and gooey liquid bases, snow bases etc...all of these stand out massively on 90% of gaming tables (which, let's be honest are green/beige/brown).

I now feel better that 90% of my bases are just covered in painted sand (brown/grey/black!