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So I've been cleaning up some metal models using both the blade side and the back side of a scalpel. The problem is when I'm scraping with the back of the blade I rest my finger against the back of the blade for some support and control, this happens to result in my finger getting somewhat sliced by the blade, its not deep and mostly only skin level but its annoying and not good.

So I'm wondering if there's a better tool I can use for this. I've heard of mould line removers but never used one to know how good they are in comparison to the back of a scalpel blade.

Of course I could waste a blade and blunt it up to a mess and then use the back of that, but even then I'd need another scalpel to hold it so it won't be much if any saving over a separate tool.

Just use the blade side. It will blunt out on metal more quickly.but much better that than cutting yourself.

If you work with metal a lot, you might consider a set of diamond needle files.

Flinty I use both sides, I find the blade side works better at clearing off larger chunks/scraping thicker lines; whilst the dull side (back) is better at smoothing over or very fine lines; also a touch better at running it lightly over fine mould lines that run over complex detail.

Joshin - I've always had mixed results with files. Sometimes they work great, sometimes I end up with scratch marks. I find very fine sandpaper to be superior, but has the downside that it dulls very fast. I've made little emery boards with some lollipop sticks and cut out sandpaper which is cheaper than buying block loads of GW' brand ones; but it still adds another stage.

I trim small bits of sprue by pulling an exacto back towards my thumb and put a small patch of duct tape on my thumb to protect it or else I end up with micro cuts. A rubber secretary paper sorting finger cap also works well (if those exist outside of my old ass office).

I had problems with scratching when I used plain metal files, but the diamond coated one (along with a light touch) has always worked for me.

(BTW, it's just Josh.)

Groo I had been thinking on doing that, but was curious if there was a tool that would just be easier to use and not require me to stick things on my fingers.

Josh -glad to read another has had similar issues - it might just be that the cheaper softer metal files, whilst fine for other purposes, are just not to to "scratch" as it were. I might revisit the diamond files then as an option.

Have you tried the GW mould line remover?
I generally steer clear of their stuff these days but I do like this tool & haven't seen a similar but cheaper alternative yet.

Alrernatively, you could wear a bandage on the finger you rest on the blade so that its not your bare skin thats touching it.

 bubber wrote:
Have you tried the GW mould line remover?
I generally steer clear of their stuff these days but I do like this tool & haven't seen a similar but cheaper alternative yet.

The GW mold line remover works very well on plastic, and in my opinion is better than a blade (unless you're trying to clean a hard-to-reach spot). But I haven't used it on metal.

Cleaning up is one of those skills that have been dying off a bit.

It's all about the tools - knife (I'm with flinty and use the blade), good needle files, sanding sticks (cocktail sticks with a bit of sandpaper superglued to them are good, as are the sticks from cotton buds (q-tips) if you want some flexibility.

What's the purpose of a sanding stick? I've always used files + blade.
Is it because you can put very fine grit sand paper, and get smooth results on surfaces you can't scrape with the blade?

fresus wrote:
What's the purpose of a sanding stick? I've always used files + blade.
Is it because you can put very fine grit sand paper, and get smooth results on surfaces you can't scrape with the blade?

I assumed it was so you can make it small, with a handle, and therefore get into those hard-to-reach areas.

Yep, diamond coated detailing files. Get both flat and rounded profiles - my round file is a complete godsend for inside curves. If you're picky about scratches, use sandpaper afterwards, but for the bulk work, diamond files are the bomb.

fresus wrote:
What's the purpose of a sanding stick? I've always used files + blade.
Is it because you can put very fine grit sand paper, and get smooth results on surfaces you can't scrape with the blade?

Yes, and with the flexible/pad backed ones, also it's to help prevent putting flats on where you don't want them (for example on a compound curve like a shoulder pad or similar).

winterdyne wrote:
Cleaning up is one of those skills that have been dying off a bit.

Aye - I think its because it takes ages and often doesn't feel as rewarding when one finishes as opposed to sticking the model together. That and did I mention it can take ages.

Then again I think mould line are something that are invisible until you really learn to see them; ergo that until you become properly aware of them its easy to gloss over that the fine line is just part of the model or casting (serious chunks/flakes/lumps of course are more readily spotted by all).

So I picked up a GW mouldline remover and a couple of diamond needle files.


Mouldline remover is well made, nice to use and honestly I really like it. I see what was said above about it being good with plastic, the thicker metal keeps rigid and thus gives a smooth scrape without any bouncing. Downside is that the metal is so thick it can't quite get into tight spots; its a shame but other tools can at least make up for that.

Needlefiles work great too, diamond does seem to work better than the cheaper regular files I've got. I've also got a very fine grit curved file to come to see how that compares.