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I'm about to start painting my Ultramarines:

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/758675.page

I'm planning on dry brushing the Macragge Blue base with Chronus Blue, applying transfers then shading the armour with Drakenhof Nightshade...

2 questions:

1. What size Citadel dry brush should I be using?
2. Why does the Citadel paint app recommend shading with Nuln Oil, Warhammer TV recommend shading with Drakenhof Nightshade and the Start Collecting! Space Marines box recommend shading with Agrax Earthshade?

If you're shading the WHOLE miniature and then dry-brushing, go with Drakenhof Nightshade. If you're just shading the joints and crevices, use Nuln Oil (check Duncan's how to paint the redemptor dreadnought video).

You might try just taking a marine and trying both methods--one on each arm w/ pauldron.

Just shading the edges and joints will get you a "cleaner" look, but both end up looking good in their own way, in my opinion.

If you tried shading the whole thing with nuln oil, you would probably have to go back over the larger blue surfaces with your base color again, as the black of the Nuln Oil will darken it significantly.

I was planning on shading the whole miniature, but after dry brushing...

That would be fine. Check Duncan's video "Ready for Battle: Captain in Gravis Armour". Drybrushing beforehand would definitely make the details pop a little better once the shade is applied.

As for the size, it really depends on how precise you want to be, If you want to have good control and only drybrush raised edges, just go for the small drybrush.

I'd just buy a couple different sizes and see what works best for the way you want to do it.

Drakenhoff is surprisingly strong as a wash (not that nuln oil isn't). If you're planning to do a wash as the final stage of your painting, it'd probably pay to dilute it with lahmian medium or another retardant so that it settles in the recesses like you want, but has a more smooth finish on panels and raised areas where you might not necessarily want wash to pool up. Quasistellar pretty much hit the nail on the head; I paint my smurfs with Nuln oil. After I wash them all over, I layer macragge blue back over armour panels and then move to highlight. Ultimately I think it's a matter of preference. I used to use drakenhoff, but blue on blue can sometimes become a little samey - it's like how people wash blood angels with nuln oil instead of carroburg crimson; you get a more genuine shadowy finish.

Wouldn’t the wash affect the colour of your transfers if they’re already applied? I do transfers last, unless weathering.

I also wouldn’t shade the transfer, you could get a shadow around the edges of it

Is highlighting not an option?

Right then - after taking the above advice and a quick visit to GW I'm going with:

1. Dry brush Chronus Blue with a small Citadel dry brush
2. Shade with Drakenhof Nightshade
3. Apply Ardcoat
4. Apply transfer
5. Apply Lahmian Medium

I've just completed the Primaris units from First Strike using that approach and I'm happy with the results. For the Reivers I actually did a second dry brush on the masks after shading too.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/758675.page#10043315

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/758675.page#10054773

As recommended above, I'm about to paint my Dreadnought using the Warhammer TV approach of applying the shade first, and only in the recesses, followed by dry brushing.

Personally I'd avoid drybrushing space marines of any kind except the edges of vehicles and some flat panels.
The chalky sandy look doesn't work.

Personal preference and all that

There are plenty of Warhammer TV tutorials showing dry brushing Space Marines. Having said that, I agree that a well done edge highlight does look better, but dry brushing is certainly easier and quicker for a beginner like me.

ValentineGames wrote:
Personally I'd avoid drybrushing space marines of any kind except the edges of vehicles and some flat panels.
The chalky sandy look doesn't work.

That's incredibly dependent on the look you're going for. I drybrush all the marines for my 30k armies (SW, RG and IF) and I much prefer the look to highlights, it makes their armour look worn and beaten. If you're looking for a clean look highlighting is the way to go but I think they look too clean that way.

 Brother Castor wrote:
As recommended above, I'm about to paint my Dreadnought using the Warhammer TV approach of applying the shade first, and only in the recesses, followed by dry brushing.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/758675.page#10064594

 Brother Castor wrote:
Right then - after taking the above advice and a quick visit to GW I'm going with:

1. Dry brush Chronus Blue with a small Citadel dry brush
2. Shade with Drakenhof Nightshade
3. Apply Ardcoat
4. Apply transfer
5. Apply Lahmian Medium

Between step 4-5: you need to go get a decal softener from hobby lobby, very necessary for decal around a marines shoulder pad, apply a coat let dry, apply another and use flat brush to curve the decal around the surface, let dry for 30 min before applying lahmian medium, if you apply too soon before the softener dries it’ll leave a cloudy streak.

I hadn't heard of that - but yes I can see how it could be useful. No Hobby Lobby in the UK but I assume this stuff performs the same function:

https://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/revell/revell-decal-soft-30ml

Correct; decal softeners are very much necessary when applying over non even surfaces such as curves marine shoulder pads.

If I might make a suggestion your Ultras look very dirty with the drybrushing, so how about playing into that? Get a weathering powder in around their feet and lower legs in the same colour as the dirt they're walking across.

Something a little like this guy:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r-tPQGvCSk/UKOYnY6-TFI/AAAAAAAADO4/Y1UqxClalgk/s1600/DSC03406.jpg

I'm not sure I'd use the term 'dirty', but as you say, the textured finish is a side effect of the dry brushing. I did consider weathering, but I prefer the 'gritty realism' as it is