Switch Theme:

On metal models has anyone used JB WELD?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

After decades of being out of this hobby, my 8 yr old found my 40K stuff & has had me teaching him to play. We also started stuff I never even taken out of the box. He found an old venerable dreadnaught (all metal). In the past everyone I knew used super glue. Even with pinning, metal models never seemed to stay together very well. I thought about trying use JB WELD epoxy. Has anyone tried this? And did you have any luck? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/06/21 22:59:51


"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

I've used epoxy adhesives (aka "araldites") on certain larger metal models from the 90s. They take some time to set-up, but are pretty rigid once cured (and are more tolerant of cold temperatures than superglues tend to be).

Used to use epoxy to glue the figures cast with integral bases onto washers as well. Some of them are still attached 25+ years later.

The one weakness the epoxy adhesives do have is heat. It breaks the bond rather like freezing does to superglues.

I'm talking scorching desert in summer at mid-day temperatures.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

Thanks for the input chromedog, I'm not worried about heat. I've used JB WELD, I also know this particular stuff is made for metal, I've used it to fill in a damaged intake manifold on my 351C engine in my fairlane. I just wasn't sure how well it would stick to this type of metal

"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in us
Nurgle Predator Driver with an Infestation






Queen Creek, AZ

I've used original JB Weld on old killa kanz for orks and they held up fine, took some prying to take it apart again.

I cleaned the area first and roughed the area up with a file then I tacked it in place with superglue and had JB weld on the part that inserts into the model (the male end to the female end) So the super glue holds on the outer edge. If you get what I'm saying...
You could also tape or prop up the thing being JB Welded.

I've also used a toothpick to get it into those hard to reach places, to fill in gaps that I want to ensure a stronger bond.
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

Maddok-death last night that's pretty much what I did. I remember a long time ago someone I worked with told me you could thin JB Weld using toluene, but using a toothpick, I was able to get it in places without looking too goopy. The parts I did seemed to turn out ok.... I even accidentally dropped the torso piece on my concrete floor & it stayed together!!! Maybe if I get the chance I'll put up some WIP pics. Right now I want to do some preliminary painting of those hard to reach places before final assembly. Thanks for sharing

"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

I think this shows what I did
[Thumb - IMG_1144.JPG]


"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

I don't know how the last one displayed upside down?
[Thumb - IMG_1143.JPG]


"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

I guess I can glue stuff together, but I don't know how to turn a picture right side up??? Lol!!!
[Thumb - IMG_1145.JPG]


"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
Made in us
Nurgle Predator Driver with an Infestation






Queen Creek, AZ

LOL!

I finally broke a piece by accident after trying to bend a piece back straight, It could've been that the JB Weld wasn't mixed right when I applied it or the joining part was too small it was for Flames of War Artillery piece.
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

Yes. I still do.
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

JB Weld is probably overkill for our purposes. The JB Kwik version sets in five minutes and is plenty strong. I still pin the joints, but haven't had one come apart yet.
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

Cool, thanks guys! Overkill is what I need playing this game is just me & my 8yr old. So I need these models as "bulletproof" as possible!!!

"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: