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So I've got the Iwata HP CS airbrush and the Smart Jet compressor. I'm trying to make a list of everything else I need before I start airbrushing. The stuff seems to be defiantly adding up, and I'm not sure whether I even need some of it, so any thoughts or opinions are welcome, as I'm new to this and just trying to learn as much as I can!.

5-gal air tank:
- I've read that these help with noise, compressor life and smooth airflow, so I was looking at getting one.
- With the automatic shut off + curly hose + regulator below, do I need this still?
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/air-compressors-pneumatic-tools-accessories/air-compressors/tool-shop-reg-5-gallon-portable-air-tank/2071804/p-1444423542841.htm

Air Pressure regulator Water Trap:
-I've read two moisture traps are useful, and the compressor doesn't have a regulator so I think this is a must get.
-There are a bunch of different ones, this one seemed promising enough, though not entirely sure.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/HD-AIR-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-Airbrush-Compressor-Gauge-Water-Trap-Moisture-Filter/39150795

Iwata universal spray out pot:
-Having to buy multiple filters for this will be a pain though... I've seen someone use paper towel and coffee filters?
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Universal-Spray-Out-Pot/p/80794883

Quick Disconnect Set:
-Does anyone use this? What does it help with?
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Quick-Disconnect-Set/p/839

Spray mask:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STR22/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61&psc=1

latex gloves:
https://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/apparel/gloves/rubber-gloves/mr-clean-reg-disposable-latex-gloves-50-count/243322/p-1444426117446-c-7083.htm?tid=8423528739460375184&ipos=2

Vallejo airbrush thinner:
-for once I get paint
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Airbrush cleaning mat:
-Is this useful?
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Airbrush-Cleaning-Mat/p/80794882

Airbrush cleaner:
-https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Media-Airbrush-Cleaner/p/80794881

Airbrush cleaning kit:
-is this useful/ is there anything better/cheaper to get?
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Airbrush-Cleaning-Kit/p/80729116

Spray Booth:
-I think I will wait to see how may painting area looks, or try to make my own, otherwise I'll get this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00NLQ019A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1713835751726239774&pf_rd_r=KV7MQ1EZ0AME43RV98CJ&pd_rd_wg=AE6f4&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=4NSLQ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=fc8ce2ea-87fc-11e8-914f-9f4b0c666b45

What compressor exactly are you using ? The iwata smart jet ? If so, it already has a pressure regulator with water trap. I dont use a cleaning kit and i dont use a mat. Just spray out pot, water, airbrush cleaner, paper towels, and q-tips. You definitely want a spray booth. I built it myself, and it works fine. Lots of videos on youtube how to do it. You need a mask, you need gloves. You may also need flow improver.

Even though you (currently) only have one AB, I'd still get a quick disconnect coupling as you're bound to get at least one more AB.

When I had an AB setup in Japan, I also had an additional in-line moisture trap just upstream of the coupling, but I honestly have no idea if it made a difference. Didn't make anything worse, so maybe a thought?

Oh ... and those turntable stlye things to put models on when spraying are a Godsend!

Thanks for the input! I was looking at the Iwata pistol grip moisture filter as as a secondary water collector, but read that they break occasionally (if anyone can confirm or not)... The regulator I am looking to add also seems to have a water trap, so if that pans out i think two will work well enough for now.


The compressor is the IS 850 Smart Jet. It's regulator is the bleed valve of the water trap, which I've read keeps the compressor running non-stop if in use, which isn't great for it, plus is also noisy so I was looking for a better set up.

I was thinking of getting an air tank and regulator since I've read many good things about how it makes to air pressure smoother, but was thinking/realized that I may also just be able to get away with a regulator.

I use a QD setup, even when I only had one airbrush. It's really convenient to swap between brushes and if you happen to get an airbrush from a different manufacturer you're not worried about thread pitch and hose swaps, just get the right adapter.

I like that LED Master booth, for what it costs, it's a solid option and the lights really do work to brighten up the area. (Even if the left side LED strip on mine has recently gone kaput).

I'd skip the cleaning kit, I'm a papertowel, spray pot, water, airbrush cleaner, q-tip and wooden toothpick guy, mainly because the q-tip/paper tower and toothpicks don't have any hope of scratching the internals of an airbrush.

I had that very same mask on half an hour ago. It makes a real difference, even with a master spray booth.

5-gal air tank

Not necessary. I would have bought a compressor with a tank attached, but you bought one of the better tankless compressors so you'll be fine.

Air Pressure regulator Water Trap

You compressor comes with one in this style and it's probably better. You don't need two.

Iwata universal spray out pot

A must have in my opinion.

Quick Disconnect Set

Not a necessary with only one brush, but still nice to have because you'll probably end up getting more. The cost is insignificant in the long run, so might as well pick one up.

Spray mask

A must if you're working with lacquers and a good idea with anything else. I have one but I only really use it for long duration sessions with lacquers (so pretty often).

latex gloves

Sure.

Vallejo airbrush thinner

If you're using water-based acrylics it's pretty good. I hate spraying acrylics but in the off chance I do, that is what I use.

Airbrush cleaning mat

Useless.

Airbrush cleaner

I prefer Vallejo cleaner with water-based acrylics. For anything else, lacquer thinner (it's also a must for any kind of deep cleaning of your brush, regardless of what you spray though it).

Airbrush cleaning kit

Useless. The two best items for cleaning your brush are interdental brushes and paper points with a strong lacquer thinner. Avoid the temptation to use an ultrasonic cleaner; it can't get it as clean as quickly as doing it buy hand with the proper tools and it can damage your brush over an extended period of time.

Spray Booth

It's fine for what it is. I don't use a spray booth but I might build my own when I move into my new house from my townhouse... my work space will pretty much double so I'll have the room.

Thanks for the feedback! What I read online said the airbrush outputs 50 PSI and the only way to regulate it was to use the bleed valve, which is why is why I wanted to get a second regulator, as the auto shut off doesn't work while using the bleed valve.

By paper points did you mean the dental ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6S26SH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1BHLI9N1MP3Y2&psc=1

Im good with getting the vallejo airbrush cleaner if you think its the better brand!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNKCKHY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1M27MGF5PA4PU&psc=1

the interdental brushes are a good idea! Guess you've all sold me on the quick disconnect also...

Recommend any type of lacquer cleaner? Whats its difference when compared to normal vallejo cleaner? Does it depend on the types of paint being used?

marcman wrote:
Thanks for the feedback! What I read online said the airbrush outputs 50 PSI and the only way to regulate it was to use the bleed valve, which is why is why I wanted to get a second regulator, as the auto shut off doesn't work while using the bleed valve.

Yeah, disregard about the regulator as the Smart Jet doesn't come with one (I have a Power Jet, which does come with one). In that case, I would look into getting an actual regulator.

By paper points did you mean the dental ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6S26SH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1BHLI9N1MP3Y2&psc=1

Yes. The smallest one can get all the way through the smallest needle on my Sotar, which the "cleaning kits" can't. Here's a long and very good video about how to best clean an airbrush.

Recommend any type of lacquer cleaner? Whats its difference when compared to normal vallejo cleaner? Does it depend on the types of paint being used?

For deep cleaning like in the video above, any hardware store lacquer thinner is going to do the trick because it will clean anything out of your brush. When you're just doing your normal painting using water-based acrylics, you can use the Vallejo stuff between color swaps.

Just a quick one: not slagging off Vallejo at all, but I always used the Tamiya thinner (X 20-something ... maybe just X-20?) for thinning and cleaning. Cheap and cheerful.

Then again, I sprayed Tamiya acrylics exclusively ... and Vallejo was a bit more expensive in Japan ... and/ reasons

 War Drone wrote:
Just a quick one: not slagging off Vallejo at all, but I always used the Tamiya thinner (X 20-something ... maybe just X-20?) for thinning and cleaning. Cheap and cheerful.

Then again, I sprayed Tamiya acrylics exclusively ... and Vallejo was a bit more expensive in Japan ... and/ reasons

Nothing against Tamiya but the A suffix thinner has alcohol in it, and that will gum up Vallejo paint.

I use the badger Modelflex cleaner which seems to work well and was the recommended one on their primer.

Suffix A stands for Acrylic, not Alcohol - X20A is perfect for vallejo and citadel paints

I agree with everything SPJ said

I would get this cleaning needle though, it is a good investment imho - ONLY the bronze thing, never the other brushes, they will bugger your airbrush - use interdental brushes for that

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Cleaning-Brushes-Stainless-Pieces/dp/B00UFDZE3K

kb_lock wrote:
Suffix A stands for Acrylic, not Alcohol - X20A is perfect for vallejo and citadel paints

Ahh, to differentiate it from their lacquer thinner. It’s still a flammable alcohol thinner, I passed by it on the shelf for the Vallejo options.

Oh totally flammable, it will also strip paint from underlying layers if you arent fast (or your palette has other colours on it ASK HOW I KNOW)

Just wanted to add my support to the comments already here.
Inter-dental brushes are awesome and a must.
Drop the cleaning kit
Drop the pad.
A good regulator is worth it's weight in gold.

Vallejo Flow Improver is a godsend for any water based paint. It will do wonders for dry tip.

I didn't state it in the other thread but my start with painting was not figures but full sized cars and hot-rods. When I said a good regulator is a godsend I mean it.

It's also why I harp on proper atomization. It's key for a smooth end result. A lot of hobby airbrush layers will show issues with dry-painting. I wet-paint. A hold over from auto-painting. Mind you that water based paints can be hell to achieve this without spidering but its possible with a good brush.

I've still got several thousand in DeVilbiss Guns in the garage.

GW Products are still the "cheapest" hobby in my life.

On the cleaning side of things I have a couple.of queries.

1. What is the downside to.using an ultrasonic cleaner? SPJ noted that it can knacker an airbrush. How so?

2. The cleaning video suggest standard hardware store lacquer thinner, but for what I've seen there are a variety of different formulations with different mixes of solvent. Any recommendations or watch it's? Would white spirits work as well?

 Flinty wrote:
On the cleaning side of things I have a couple.of queries.

1. What is the downside to.using an ultrasonic cleaner? SPJ noted that it can knacker an airbrush. How so?

2. The cleaning video suggest standard hardware store lacquer thinner, but for what I've seen there are a variety of different formulations with different mixes of solvent. Any recommendations or watch it's? Would white spirits work as well?

1. Damage seals, cause a micro fracture to become a real 'break' and possibly flake a poorly applied finish are the three things I was told.

2. Can't help you on lacquer based paints, I stick to water based acrylics.

 Flinty wrote:
1. What is the downside to.using an ultrasonic cleaner? SPJ noted that it can knacker an airbrush. How so?

Ultrasonic cleaners create high frequency vibrations which can damage solder joints and fatigue the metal in airbrushes. Ken, the owner of Badger Airbrushes, talks about this quite frequently. He has said his repair shop only uses them as a last resort when it comes to cleaning airbrushes. One of two uses probably isn't going to cause any lasting damage, but it isn't something to be done with any kind of regularity.

Besides, breaking it down and cleaning it with a little elbow grease will give you better results in less time.

2. The cleaning video suggest standard hardware store lacquer thinner, but for what I've seen there are a variety of different formulations with different mixes of solvent. Any recommendations or watch it's? Would white spirits work as well?

White spirits isn't strong enough, so no. The kind of lacquer thinner available at Home Depot in the States that is good to use is made by Klean-Strip and comes in a blue and orange metal can.

Thanks for all the advice so far! Can anyone recommend a a good regulator?

The issue with ultrasonics is that they distribute paint places where paint never goes. Badgers have a tendency to fall apart in them too

kb_lock wrote:
Badgers have a tendency to fall apart in them too

Any airbrush can be ruined by them. I’ve seen a nice Iwata that had the solder joint hold the color cup to the main body fail because of regular use in an ultrasonic cleaner.