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Hey guys,

I found a colour scheme for knights that I would like to recreate the main colour of but havent had much luck. Does anyone know the best way to match the bronze on this model?

Thanks in advance

Cullion

I'd start with a base colour of Warplock Bronze (GW) followed by a pin wash of brown mixed with black then a light drybrush of silver.

Hi bubber,

I did try using warlock bronze on an old land raider but it came out very dark and when lightened up by adding a white or lighter colour it didn't have the same metallic like effect warlock bronze has.

Can I ask what you mean by a pin wash?

Thanks

 Cullion wrote:
Hi bubber,

I did try using warlock bronze on an old land raider but it came out very dark and when lightened up by adding a white or lighter colour it didn't have the same metallic like effect warlock bronze has.

Can I ask what you mean by a pin wash?

Thanks

Bronze is a very dark color- a dark metallic brown. You could probably make it lighter by using a drop or two of a darker brass or gold, but I would go overboard or you will just end up with a gold. You could go look at over paint lines for bronze. Vallejo had a really good bronze in the Game Color line, but after P3 came out with Molten Bronze, it's all I've ever used.

You could mix a lighter brown color into the bronze, and then add metallic medium to it (Reaper makes it, and Vallejo too) to recover the metal aspect of the paint.

Pin Washing is the latest craze by all the painters like NMM, or wet blending, or whatever. You paint the model, then seal it with some kind of gloss coat typically sprayed on. Idea being to seal the model and make the surface really slick. Then, using oil based paints which are really, really thin, you "wash" the model just like using an acrylic wash, and because the model is sealed, the oil runs right into crevices and holes and will not settle on any flat, broad surfaces. Then, after waiting a couple days (yes, the oil based paints take that long to dry), you seal the model again, and then touch it up. It's been used in scale modeling community for a long, long time, (railroad, airplane, tanks) before there was such a thing as acrylic washes. It's a lot of work for a similar effect that you can achieve using acrylic washes, and it's very fiddly and easy to mess up. If you don't properly seal the model, the oil paint will soak into the acrylic paint and destroy your paint job. I'd stick to acrylic washes, glazes, and mediums for creating weathering or special effects. Then again, I'm no Golden Daemon level painter or miniature painting artist and have no interest in putting in hundreds of hours into one model to play with on the table.

Here is a pretty good tutorial on pin washing.

Another good one, this time by the studio painter for badger airbrushing. Pin Washing Tutorial

edit: Added a couple youtube tutorials for Pin Washing

 Tamwulf wrote:

 Cullion wrote:
Hi bubber,

I did try using warlock bronze on an old land raider but it came out very dark and when lightened up by adding a white or lighter colour it didn't have the same metallic like effect warlock bronze has.

Can I ask what you mean by a pin wash?

Thanks

Bronze is a very dark color- a dark metallic brown. You could probably make it lighter by using a drop or two of a darker brass or gold, but I would go overboard or you will just end up with a gold. You could go look at over paint lines for bronze. Vallejo had a really good bronze in the Game Color line, but after P3 came out with Molten Bronze, it's all I've ever used.

You could mix a lighter brown color into the bronze, and then add metallic medium to it (Reaper makes it, and Vallejo too) to recover the metal aspect of the paint.

Pin Washing is the latest craze by all the painters like NMM, or wet blending, or whatever. You paint the model, then seal it with some kind of gloss coat typically sprayed on. Idea being to seal the model and make the surface really slick. Then, using oil based paints which are really, really thin, you "wash" the model just like using an acrylic wash, and because the model is sealed, the oil runs right into crevices and holes and will not settle on any flat, broad surfaces. Then, after waiting a couple days (yes, the oil based paints take that long to dry), you seal the model again, and then touch it up. It's been used in scale modeling community for a long, long time, (railroad, airplane, tanks) before there was such a thing as acrylic washes. It's a lot of work for a similar effect that you can achieve using acrylic washes, and it's very fiddly and easy to mess up. If you don't properly seal the model, the oil paint will soak into the acrylic paint and destroy your paint job. I'd stick to acrylic washes, glazes, and mediums for creating weathering or special effects. Then again, I'm no Golden Daemon level painter or miniature painting artist and have no interest in putting in hundreds of hours into one model to play with on the table.

Here is a pretty good tutorial on pin washing.

Another good one, this time by the studio painter for badger airbrushing. Pin Washing Tutorial

edit: Added a couple youtube tutorials for Pin Washing

While this is all true, a suitably thinned acrylic wash will behave in the correct fashion and you can improve your drying times (which will be longer over a gloss varnish) with careful use of a hairdryer.

Rik

It could be vallejo air brassy brass, but that could easily be wrong.

Ah yeah I hadnt thought about using a gold to try and lighten the colour! ill have to give that a go aswell as the Pin wash. I have been playing around with a few of the Vallejo air colours but none of them have been a very good match to the picture. So will have to try adding in other colours and see what happens.

I had been adding browns and whites but it ruined the metallic effects so hopefully a metallic gold may work to brighten up the darker colours.