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So i try to create my own Chapter and i want to give it some Unique look myself with some greenstuff.

So i could use some tips on:

- Cloaks but without Hoodie and Legs should still be visible. Kinda like this (http://deacademic.com/pictures/dewiki/65/Ares_Ludovisi_Altemps_Inv8602_n2.jpg)
- I want to create some sad and angry looking face on my armors like centurion had in rome (https://i.pinimg.com/736x/0e/95/d3/0e95d3fc9ed5e1437db2ddc290429e3e--roman-centurion-roman-armor.jpg)
- i want to make a Lion Pelt for some of my HQ's kinda like this (http://conceptartworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Assassins-Creed-Origins-Concept-Art-by-Jeff-Simpson-centurion.jpg)
- I havent decided yet on my Chapter Emblem but i kinda like the Idea of having a Lion aswell. The Decals are mostly Simple Designs so some suggestions on that would be helpful.
- I also would like to have Gladius like Powerswords without the Ultramarine Symbol on it. And i cant find any Powerlances yet theyre in the Codex to use

I have some minor green stuff work. Keep it as simple as possible. It will be easier.

I made some capes. I build the cape in paper, and then added green stuff on top. Worked OK.

I made a mold of the backshell of a tyranid warrior. I used that mold to make small chitting parts in the shape of the shell. And then I split the chitting in two, popped them up and added some insect wings underneath. Those are Shrikes (flying warriors) with insects wings. Worked fine.

In general always keep your tool wet, regurarly dip it in water.

If you are making something complex, do it in stages, letting it harden in between.

The pelt is probably the easiest one to do: Make a skin in paper. Start apllying for to it in small sliver of green stuff, representing fur. Begin at the bottom and work your way up.

Also, if you have any descent job, it will usually be better for you to do some extra houers and buy the object online instead of doing greenstuff work.

thank you for the reply.

yea i looked at White Lion pelts from high elves and also the custodes dude had a Lion Pelt on him.
However i dont see how i can use them well enough on my HQ yet. still debating about it in my head.

In Regards to my Skull, sad and angry looking faces on my armor and the Lion Symbol for my Shoulder pats.
my plan here was to create greenstuff press molds so i can use them whenever its needed.

i will Need around 120 shoulder pat symbols since i plan to create a whole 2nd chapter and some 1st chapter veterans.
i thought about getting black Templer shoulder pats and make a golden cross for my chapter.

but that had a more medieval vibe to it and less of an ancient rome vibe. also 120 pats would be 230ish euros in the Long run. not to dramatic but still worth thinking about it.
i could also make some decals myself with a laser Printer as ive seen others do that. so that might eliminate my Symbol Problem atleast.

did you make the paper more stabil with glue or something? or did you just use greenstuff on it?

A few general Greenstuff Tips

1) Tools: generally speaking anything used for clay work works with greenstuff too. As a result you can get some pretty affordable "clay tools" on ebay and from hobby shops. The standard tool that GW sells still get used the most I find, but many other are useful for little details and niches. Note the one GW sells is also standard for clay so a clay tool kit will likely have one too.

2) Clayshapers/colourshapers. Why GW doesn't sell their own ones of these confuses me as they are a GODSEND for working with greenstuff. They are a silicon headed tool that typically comes in 5 or so shapes and 3 hardnesses (black hardest, grey medium, white softest). What they allow you to do is to rub the greenstuff to achieve a smooth finish and to smooth over join areas where greenstuff meets the model surface.
Much like using your finger but without leaving fingerprints and they cut down a LOT of sanding time (which is always a pain as even firm greenstuff chokes up sandpaper/files very fast).

I'd recommend a set of at least the black ones or grey - they are one of my most used tools after the standard greenstuff tool. Note that the silicon reacts badly to glue so keep it away from any superglue.

3) As said above keep all tools wet when working with greenstuff. Wet tools won't stick, dry tools will and it will be a nightmare. Note that you can use oil if you want (eg sunflower oil) instead of water. The bonus of oil is that it will stay on the tool for far longer; however if you do use oil then once the model is fully cured (takes at least 24 hours - longer for bigger chunks) you want to give it a wash like you would resin to get the oil off the surface otherwise it will get in the way of glues and paints

Standard washing is warm water and a tiny bit of washing up liquid and a worn soft toothbrush - dip, wash and lightly scrub then rinse off glean with plain water and leave it to dry (just the same as resin or metal washing).

4) Less is more - whenever you have a bit of greenstuff to do something - cut it in half. In general less works best as you can build up most effects in stages. It's always far easier to add a little than it is to take it away.

5) As mentioned above sometimes its easier to achieve a shape if you've a rough undershape. Wire is often used to form a rough base for the shape you want; onto which you can then mould the greenstuff.

thank you for the reply and the tips.

i bought some GW greenstuff
GW sculpting Tools
and some clayshaper Tools on ebay. i got 3 Grey ones with different shapes.

dont have wire though.

another question.
i wanted to make some fine lines in cool shapes on my armor with greenstuff.
will it stay as hard as the plastic or does a heavy grip destroy my fine detailed greenstuff work on the armor?

im thinking about gulliman for example. his armor has lots of cool symbols on him and i might give a shot for my own chapter master.

For future reference, don't buy green stuff from GW- the markup is insane. Search for the product name (Kneadatite) to get it cheaper. Greenstuffworld is the place I recommend- 36" strip for about £10-£12.

I also recommend not buying the strips, but the tubes. Anywhere the strips touch, they start to cure, leaving lumps in your Kneadatite. The tubes never touch and also have more material in them.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
I also recommend not buying the strips, but the tubes. Anywhere the strips touch, they start to cure, leaving lumps in your Kneadatite. The tubes never touch and also have more material in them.

I've actually had fun making molds of parts I'd like to recast to modify, and casting them in 2-part epoxy. I still use plenty of greenstuff, but I do find it hard to use, so I tend to use it for gap filling, holding together delicate pieces that don't want to glue easily, and some small modeling things here and there.

I use this reusable molding material, a little like this stuff here: https://thebluebottletree.com/oyumaru-reusable-molding-material/

You just put it in hot water, press it against what you're wanting to replicate, and let it cool off. Then pull the original part out and pour your 2-part epoxy into the mold; once it's dry/hardened - pry it out. There's better polyurethane resins (more liquid that pour better and fill in the mold better) to use if you want to get crazy, but they're a bit more expensive and require a bit more prep.

So I've not gotten that good at greenstuff... I find that it's hard to use

For flapping fabric shape the putty round paint brush handles at angles. Also, mix with milliput 50 50

thank you for all the Feedback I will definitely look into it.
especially with the moulds for the custom green stuff symbols.

I have another question though.

I was thinking about a Lion symbol on my shoulder pats for my Space Marine Chapter.
could I somehow use those white lion pelts to get a lion head on my pats? I fear that they're to big to use so I would have to make them smaller somehow.

Sculpting fur is pretty straightforward, it’s essentially raking the green stuff with a blade til the desired thickness is achieved. The head will just take practice; it’ll probably be easier to just incorporate an existing part instead of starting from scratch.
Cloaks, usually you want to start by rolling out a flat sheet of green stuff, then cutting it down to a shape that will easily drape over the model.
For sculpting tips, I’d really recommend searching for tutorials; pics/videos will explain much better than whatever I can write here. From there a lot of it comes down to becoming familiar with the tools and materials.
In addition to clay tools/shapers, you may want to look into wax carving or dental tools.
Regarding lubricants, this may sound strange, but I often use skin oil by rubbing tools on my forehead (apparently some people use the side of their nose)
Personally, as someone who thinks of sculpting as a chore, an important lesson I’ve picked up is to take my time with the putty and work in stages. It's tempting to try to complete all the sculpting in one go, but it’s usually best to block out basic shapes first and give them time to cure before adding fine detailing.

Wire should be available at most hardware stores. While less ideal, even paperclips can work.

If you don’t mind ripping off the Celestial Lions or Disciples of Caliban, their icons are available on shapeways.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=lion+shoulder
It would be about 40USD to flat out buy 120 icons, or you can just get a small sample and replicate it with press molds.
IIRC Scibor offers some lion pads too, but it might be trickier to get the mold to line up with a GW shoulder pad due to shape differences.

Melee weapons: offhand, Anvil Industry exo lord parts are SM compatible. Someone probably sells gladii and spears on shapeways too.