Switch Theme:

Decals/Transfers  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





I am new to using decals but am painting some Warlord Hail Caesar EI Romans and need to put decals on the shields.
The plan is to gloss varnish (AP Quickshade) then add decal, then spray Matt or satin varnish to fix. Hopefully that will save the need to buy special decal fixer but grateful for any pointers if this is likely to be a bad idea.
My main question is how to apply decals to those shields in the box which have holes and scratches and other battle damage over the surface. Should I fix the decals then remove segments to expose the holes etc, or try to shape the decal before adding to the mini?
Thanks in advance
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

Good question. I would imagine you would try and scrape or make holes in the areas where scratches etc are after you have applied it. As in if the model area is scratched then it makes sense for the decal to also have that scratch on the decal.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/04/23 06:55:25


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lPQb7aVdvw
This is how aliens communicate in space.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Great Music - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/760437.page 
   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

Microset/sol are worth the money. You want the decal to dry first before removing any from holes etc. You don't need to gloss before decals either. Satin is fine. I don't usually even bother with that because I'm lazy. It's an unnecessary step.

Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children

Instagram: nagrakali_love_songs 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

If you put them on over scratches, that’s going to get air under the decal, which looks bad (silvering)

Microsol/set is not that expensive, will last a long time, and is magic in a bottle. Treat yourself. I’m glad I did; changed my modeling-decal life.

   
Made in nz
Dakka Veteran





I've done exactly what you're about to and I found that it was best to use a VERY sharp knife to lightly cut the sections you want gone while they're still on the decal paper.

You literally barely need to even touch the surface with a knife to cut the decal layer.

   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I use Tamiya X-22 Clear to soften the transfers, all of their acrylics are full of solvent, once dry needs a touch of anti shine to lessen the gloss

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in us
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot





Wisconsin

I use Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer. They work just like Microset and Microsol.

   
Made in us
Stalwart Dark Angels Space Marine





Charlotte, NC

Microsol and Microset are worth every penny and a bottle of each will last you...almost forever. I can’t imagine applying transfers without using these products any longer

2500 Points
2000 Points 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: