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Made in us
Been Around the Block





Has anyone used LGS to fix a rough or uneven surface on a delicate miniature? Can you brush it in, let it settle in the recessed, remove the excess and let it dry?
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

Yes, it's quite a good surfacing paste. Apply thickly, let dry, scrub off with an old brush. Repeat (many times).

It does shrink quite a lot, so it takes many applications to get a good result with it, but as it's dyed, you can see imperfections in the surface quite easily.

As a gap filler though, milliput is still king in my opinion. For terrain, I've also taken to using pre-mixed wood filler which works pretty well.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/10/15 18:18:24


 
   
Made in gb
Angry Chaos Agitator





IMO, liquid green stuff is bad. I don't think that's a particularly controversial option, either...

For smoothing and gap filling you are much better off with Milliput. Milliput can be mixed with water to create any consistency you like; from clay-like, liquid green stuff-like, to flat out watery. It doesn't shrink when it dries, and it sands brilliantly.
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

One thing I use as a polystyrene model filler is something odd:
Melt plastic sprue and bits into the Tamiya green cap glue (when you are down to the last dregs of it).
It makes a fairly easy to smooth-on material depending on how much plastic you dissolve in.
Of course, it welds in really nice.
Milliput is a standard out there and you cannot go very wrong with that.
Are you primarily trying to fill or also bond as well?

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK


This is primarily smoothed and blended with liquid GS.

For a surfacer, it's very controllable (milliput is better for part blending, especially when wet-brushed, but is messier to work and can be tougher to clean up from brushes as it dries).



 
   
 
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