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Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

I thought it could be useful for some posts from all us printers out there and what we are using for resin and filament, what machine, etc. I have found some really great products and some stinkers, so thought it would be good to share.

Elegoo Mars - basic model
Resin
Standard - I have had absolutely great success with the Siraya Tech Simple Smoky Black (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089582G5L/) - It is super reasonably priced (does go up and down on Amazon) and with a low viscosity I can shorten my exposure times by 0.5-1.0 second, depending on the layer thickness. It claims 15% alcohol cleanup, but I dilute to about 50% with the two wash container system and it cleans great without scrubbing. I have also added a bit of either white or grey resin (Elegoo or the like) to remove the translucent color so it is a bit more opaque and it works great.

Colors - I have used multiple colors of the Elegoo resin, but the colors are kind of flat for me. I used quite a bit of the Shine Sing colors and they are super vibrant! All print up great. What I have found is using white resin and adding some Ranger alcohol inks to make the colors I want. I found a basic color set (Red, Blue, Yellow) and have mixed a bunch of colors, just do not go crazy and try to add too much color to saturate the resin and mess up the properties. I have done blue, green, orange and recently did a brown color that came out great.

Curing - I have a 60w UV lamp in a plastic box lined with tin foil and usually keep the cure to 2-3 minutes per side and that seems to cure it up, but not let it get too brittle. I like to have just a bit of flex. Your curing time will vary upon your lamp and set up.

Notable mention: i-Found resin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y7VLCY9/) what a nice kit you get with your resin! A few gloves, a filter mask and a collapsible funnel. I have only used the black color and it also works well.

Ender 3 Pro .4 nozzle
FDM filament-PLA
I have used a number of brands, but found the Hatchbox brand the most consistent and fairly reasonable. I had the printer sitting unused for over a year (while I totally abused my Mars) and just recently cranked it up for a big birdhouse project. I was amazed how much the price had increased on filament since the last time I bought, so tried the Hello Tech white (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GKDB8NM/) and this has been the smoothest running filament I have ever used and importantly was wound super neat. I normally run the end temp around 200-205, but found this is working great at 190-192. Hint - the lower you can keep your end temp and still get a good flow the less likely you will get the heat creep that will block your tube - this is the most common failure I have when the filament stops coming out and you have a failed print. I am doing some 3-4 day prints, so definitely do not want a failure 2 days into the print.

Not so good - Sunlu - I tried their light brown and I seemed to have an abnormal amount of plugging, maybe from particles not melting properly. When I went to a .6 nozzle, seemed to work fine. I was doing terrain, so the larger nozzle was not a problem.

What have others been using and maybe some tips for new ones to our hobby?


This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2021/05/26 15:49:24


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I've had really good results with sunlu. Certainly no blockages.

Resin wise I've only really used Elegoo clear blue water washable. Certainly I have had no disasters that weren't caused by my stupid exposure settings.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Seattle, WA USA

I've been pretty pleased with the Phrozen Aqua Grey 4k on my SM4K. I had previously also used Fun To Do Snow White, which was good, but a lot more expensive, in my older Moonray printer. My buddy has had great success with Siraya Tech ABS like as well.
   
Made in si
Foxy Wildborne







I love Anycubic PLA (which I suspect is rebranded Sunlu as they both have the same spools and always have the same colors available), performance does vary wildly between colors but their midtones (gray, light brown) give me the best prints of everything I've tried, no stringing, no curling, perfect overhangs. Learned that Slovanian-made brands are pretty gak, as usual, and so is Polish "Print-Me".

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/03/05 19:11:01


Posters on ignore list: 36

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Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in nl
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot




netherlands

i use pla from a dutch compagny called 123-3D print.

but im searching for a bleu transparent fillament

full compagny of bloodangels, 5000 pnt of epic bloodangels
5000 pnt imperial guard
5000 pnt orks
2500 pnt grey knights
5000 pnt gsc
5000 pnts Chaos legionars
4000 pnt tyranids
4000 pnt Tau
 
   
Made in us
Deathwing Terminator with Assault Cannon






 MDSW wrote:
Hint - the lower you can keep your end temp and still get a good flow the less likely you will get the heat creep that will block your tube - this is the most common failure I have when the filament stops coming out and you have a failed print.
This is actually a really good tip that's not often talked about in this forum. Also, it's worth mentioning that lower heat = more matte finish. The trick is getting the right temperature for your particular filament - too cold, and the striation will be more prominent; too hot, you lose the benefit of adjusting the heat in the first place.
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

And for anyone interested, here are some pics of my recently finished Birdhouse on my Ender 3. The roof has hinges in the back so it tilts up to clean and there is a divider in the middle inside with a hole on each side so two birds can build nests inside. The little 'Hag' is a 28mm mini, just so you can judge the scale.

I found the Overture Lt. Brown PLA ran perfectly set at 192 degrees as well as the White Hello Tech at 190 - both worked flawlessly for 'bargain' filament, so super happy.
[Thumb - Birdhouse done (4).jpg]

[Thumb - Birdhouse done (5).jpg]

[Thumb - Birdhouse done (6).jpg]

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2021/03/29 17:04:45


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in si
Foxy Wildborne







Has anyone tried this new Polyterra PLA that's being shilled all over Europe right now?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/03/29 18:25:08


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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/04/02 22:49:21


 
   
Made in us
Deathwing Terminator with Assault Cannon






 JBSchroeds wrote:
I've run through three spools of Printed Solid's Jessie PLA during the last year without any print issues. It's reasonably priced and fully made in the USA by a small business. I like giving that kind of operation my dollars as opposed to some faceless chinese corp.
 skchsan wrote:
 MDSW wrote:
Hint - the lower you can keep your end temp and still get a good flow the less likely you will get the heat creep that will block your tube - this is the most common failure I have when the filament stops coming out and you have a failed print.
This is actually a really good tip that's not often talked about in this forum. Also, it's worth mentioning that lower heat = more matte finish. The trick is getting the right temperature for your particular filament - too cold, and the striation will be more prominent; too hot, you lose the benefit of adjusting the heat in the first place.

Lower temps can also mean decreased inter-layer adhesion. If you're doing something functional, rather than decorative, you'll probably want to run on the hotter end of the print temp range. Though, given that this is a modeling forum, that's probably not really an issue for most posters.
1. You shouldn't be printing with PLA if you're printing functional parts requiring structural integrity/dimensional accuracy in the first place, so that point is moot. Also, 99.99% of times, the prints sheer off rather than peel off at sites of delamination.
2. You shouldn't be aligning your Z direction parallel to the direction of expected tensile force anyways - you're just asking for it to break.
3. Primary cause for delamination, as far as heat is concerned, is when you are printing BELOW its optimal temperature (as this naturally causes low flow rate). The effect is negligible when working at the bottom of the designed temperature. Low flow rate, high print speed & high cooling causes more delamination than cold hot end does.
4. Heat exceeding the designed temp causes MORE issues, some which are permanent, than 'under' heating it. Worst under heated hot end can do is damage to the filament.

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2021/04/05 14:57:43


 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

I have just had heat creep on my Ender when I have prints that take 2-4 days and I have the temp set much higher than 195 - I will get the dreaded plug in the tube above the hot end every time. The temp is still plenty hot enough to bond and make a silky smooth print.

On prints that take under 12 hours, I have cranked it up, but just prefer to print a bit slower to get better quality and no chance of a failed print when the filament stops coming out.

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in ru
Fresh-Faced New User





My favorite FDM filament is Esun PLA+
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

onmioji wrote:
My favorite FDM filament is Esun PLA+


Yes, I have used the eSun PLA+ and it was quite good.

Has anyone tried coloring their resin using dyes or inks?

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in nz
Snotty Snotling







I've been pretty pleased with the Phrozen Aqua Grey 4k on my SM4K. I had previously also used Fun To Do Snow White, which was good, but a lot more expensive, in my older Moonray printer. My buddy has had great success with Siraya Tech ABS like as well.


Agreed with the Phrozon 4K resins, I have had great results with them. The Phrozon water washable not so much, tended to find every single piece we tried with it warped as soon as it was exposed to sunlight.
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

Does anyone have any good solutions for resin prints that warp and to straighten out? I printed a long, flat base for a model and after curing, it warped a bit, so it is no longer flat on the bottom.

I can drop it into hot/boiling water so it is super flexible, but even after pressing, quickly or slowly cooling and drying, it slowly goes back to being warped.

Do I just need to print it over again and cure it longer/harder so it stays flat to begin with or is there a way to 'set' the resin once respositioned?

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in us
Daemonic Dreadnought





Eye of Terror

 MDSW wrote:
Does anyone have any good solutions for resin prints that warp and to straighten out? I printed a long, flat base for a model and after curing, it warped a bit, so it is no longer flat on the bottom.

I can drop it into hot/boiling water so it is super flexible, but even after pressing, quickly or slowly cooling and drying, it slowly goes back to being warped.

Do I just need to print it over again and cure it longer/harder so it stays flat to begin with or is there a way to 'set' the resin once respositioned?


What brand of resin?

Huge differences in the elasticity of different manufacturers. My understanding is most photosensitive resins hard cure and won't alter shape based on heat.

   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







If the problem is just that it’s not quite flat, could you sand it flat instead? Otherwise, you are probably looking at a reprint.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

The majority of it was Siraya Tech Simple, with a little Elegoo thrown in to make the smoky translucent black into a somewhat normal grey color.

Sanding would not be an option, unfortunately. I could reprint, but what will keep it from warping again over time - cure it longer?

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Can you wash it and clamp it into a flat surface to cure it?

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

Funny, I did that a couple of days ago... I dropped it into boiling water to soften it up (it gets super bendy) and then clamped it between two boards. It is still in there, as I thought I would give it a lot of time to stay the flip flat this time.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/27 14:59:22


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
 
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