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Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Long story short, I've been away from painting for about 5 years, maybe longer and as a result, all my old paints look less than impressive. I am by no means a great painter, but I enjoy it and do it to a decent enough table top standard and was wondering what paints I really should commit to for my new set. It would mainly be fantasy/historical type stuff with the occasional chibi style figures for things like Super Dungeon or Arcadia Quest. I'm mainly looking for paints that are easy to use and have decent/consistent coverage without huge amounts of maintenance/effort.

I always liked the look of the Army Painter bundle as it seems to have a pretty good selection of paints at a pretty competitive price, but there is always a fair bit of criticism around them and I never know whether it's legit or just paint snobs looking down on cheaper paints? Same goes for Vallejo Game Color, they look pretty appealing with their almost like for like matchup with Citadel, but again I see people criticising them for not being anywhere near as good as the Model Color range. (which in itself looks interesting but slightly overwhelming with the sheer quantity of available paints)

So for a returning mediocre painter is there really any huge difference or for someone like me will it really not make a huge difference? I almost committed to the Game Color paints as I could get some at very decent prices, but a few very negative reviews have got me gun shy and struggling to pull the trigger one way or the other! Cheers for any advice, I'm sure this question has been asked a million times before
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





You can get good results even with cheap craft paints if you know what you're doing with them. But the coarser grind and lower density of pigments does make it harder to get good results.

By and large, hobby grade paints (GW, P3, Army Painter, Vallejo, etc) will be far easier to work with... and overall they're much the same. Most hobby painters use a mix of brands, picking and choosing the specific paints they prefer out of each line.

Me personally? I started with GW, but have been transitioning to craft paints because they work for me... with the exception of metallic paints. I find craft metallics to be garbage.

Long and short: Lots of people will post their preferences here, but that's exactly what they will be. Their preferences. Ultimately, the only way to tell if a given paint range or even specific paint will work for you is to try it out yourself and see what happens.

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Oh Canada!

I like Army Painter. Some of their products are damn fantastic, like the Quickshade bottles of wash. Their paints are a solid budget entry and if cost is the main consideration, then they do have that going for them. Their "problem" so to speak is a lack of consistency between colours. Some cover well, most are decent, and some are kind of bad. Opacity is highly variable, which new or less experienced painters might find frustrating. I'd avoid their white, yellows and oranges.

Vallejo has its own strengths/weaknesses. The Model Color line (MC) is usually considered the "best" by most people because it has the highest coverage / most opaque paints vs the other Vallejo ranges. It's cons are those paints tend to separate quickly both in the bottle and on a wet palette, and they might not have the vibrant colours desired for fantasy figures. Some of the colours can rub off easily if touched right after drying, so I'd recommend using them with mini holders, improvised or bought. The Game Color range has the same attributes with less opaqueness, has a shinier finish with more vinyl in the paint medium for a more durable(?) full cure.

Reaper MSP comes pre-thinned with flow aid, which makes it easier to use for layering and glazing but a bit harder to do things like drybrush with. I really like their Brown Liner for, well, lining. It acts a lot like the old Citadel Black Ink, and is more black than brown.

Coat D'arms is the place to be if you're trying to match old 90's Citadel colours. The paints are kick-in-the-teef bright, but poor coverage overall. They're meant for the old school 'prime it white and layer to heaven' style.

P3 is a solid workhorse of a line, if you're okay with bottles and not droppers. The paints are very consistent in coverage (good to 'one coat wonder' levels of opaque) but there are few real bright colours, lots of shades. Almost all of them have white and/or black mixed in to get that across the board coverage, which also makes the range harmonious. I use these for basecoats the most.

Scale75 is ultra matte, dilutes a treat but handles oddly compared to most of the other brands and not everyone likes how different it looks wet vs. dry. Great range of colours but more expensive and requires preparation since it's really thick out of the bottle.

For white I use Createx Airbrush Opaque White. I have not found a thinner, non-grainy brilliantly bright white in any miniature paint. Golden Airbrush Colors Carbon Black is my black of choice.

That's not even all the brands out there, there's so much variety these days. It's wonderful but also causes the analysis paralysis of too much choice.

What paint brand were you used to using? Each one feels slightly different on the brush, has different finishes (matte, ultra matte, satin, etc.) and its own strengths/weaknesses. I would suggest getting a few of Vallejo MC, Vallejo GC, and Army Painter to try out if those interest you the most. See how you like them. If you have your eye on a particular set, you can pick out colours that are missing from it as your samples.

If I had to pick one (modern) paint range that had the best coverage with least amount of effort, it'd be Privateer Press's P3. The pots are a deal breaker for some, but they are bar none, solid across the entire range. Even the reds and yellows cover well, and a quick shake is usually plenty to get them mixed back to perfection before use. They don't separate instantly on a wet palette. They drybrush great, and can layer and glaze with the proper dilution/addition of medium. Even the metallics cover well and are very shiny/sparkly. Besides the container their biggest downside is availability, as they're not nearly as ubiquitous as Citadel or Vallejo.
   
Made in us
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Philadelphia PA

Yeah same as Vulcan - I have a hodge podge of different paints depending on what colors and qualities I like.

Started with a lot of P3 paints, added Vallejo (game and model colors) for colors I wanted, and then recently bought some GW contrasts to try out.

It's about whatever works for your painting style, and since you're starting out I'd say go with whichever you get a better deal on, you can always add more paints later. Your first models are going to be more about learning brush control and techniques so the exact brand isn't going to have a huge impact IMO.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/07/24 23:40:57


I prefer to buy from miniature manufacturers that *don't* support the overthrow of democracy. 
   
Made in us
Sure Space Wolves Land Raider Pilot






Miniac did a YouTube video comparing the different brands and different colors. From what I remember his end result was that different brands had different strengths with their colors.

I was an exclusively GW snob until I got frustrated with their whites and yellows. I really like Vallejo, but honestly don’t have a specific preference for brand.
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Thanks for the responses, it does seem as though it as I suspected and that really any will do someone of my limited level and I should just commit to one and see if any particular thing bothers/doesn't click with me and then use that excellent guide from Fire_Forever to find a potential improvement in that area.

I previously used mainly GW paints as that was where I originally got into the hobby, but did find it a bit frustrating how quickly they'd dry up, or sometimes not seem to be very consistent with how they diluted with water or a wet brush (probably due to drying up issues). I got an Army Painter Zombicide paint set and really enjoyed the dropper bottles and was definitely looking to move over to that style just because of how nicely the paint seemed to stay good.

I am leaning towards Vallejo GC simply because I can get them cheaper than Army Painter so could get a solid base collection for the lower price and then play it out from there. It is encouraging that no one has jumped in and screamed not to get Game Color or Army Painter, as I had psyched myself out a bit!
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Oh Canada!

The differences as you suspected are subtle. Vallejo, Citadel, P3, and Army Painter are all fine entry points into the hobby paint market.

P3 and Vallejo are the most similar to Citadel in paint consistency / brush feel, so those are both good bets for you. Both press-fit pots and droppers are 100x better at keeping paint from drying up vs. Citadels "oh look, my paint now is useless" containers. If your Citadels aren't completely solidified, you may be able to revive them by adding water and doing a ton of stirring/grinding to get the pigments into suspension again.

Droppers definitely win the long term storage survival race when it comes to paint not drying out. They can clog and remixing is more hit-and-miss since you can't see the actual paint without squeezing it out, but if you're an occasional or on-and-off painter, they'll do you solid. P3 style pots are equally good for long term storage IF AND ONLY IF the rims are kept clean. Otherwise they can end up with air gaps just like the Citadel pots. If you want the lowest stress / least amount of maintenance, droppers.

Ultimately you need some kind of reference point to start with, and any paint you have is always going to be better than no paint at all. My favourite Vallejo GC colour is 72.027, Scurvy Green. It's a close match to the old Citadel Scaly Green, a very dark but vibrant turquoise perfect for swampy lizard things, dragons, and ocean denizens of the deep. If blue-ish deep green appeals to you, I give that one two thumbs up.



This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/07/25 00:50:53


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





I mostly GreenStuffWorld paints, they don’t just do special effects they do a standard range of acrylics. I just haven’t found a bad one yet and they are all easy to use out of the pot.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





BigOscar wrote:
Thanks for the responses, it does seem as though it as I suspected and that really any will do someone of my limited level and I should just commit to one and see if any particular thing bothers/doesn't click with me and then use that excellent guide from Fire_Forever to find a potential improvement in that area.

I previously used mainly GW paints as that was where I originally got into the hobby, but did find it a bit frustrating how quickly they'd dry up, or sometimes not seem to be very consistent with how they diluted with water or a wet brush (probably due to drying up issues). I got an Army Painter Zombicide paint set and really enjoyed the dropper bottles and was definitely looking to move over to that style just because of how nicely the paint seemed to stay good.

I am leaning towards Vallejo GC simply because I can get them cheaper than Army Painter so could get a solid base collection for the lower price and then play it out from there. It is encouraging that no one has jumped in and screamed not to get Game Color or Army Painter, as I had psyched myself out a bit!


Actually I would recommend AGAINST committing to just one brand. I'd pick up a couple colors from each range and see how they perform for me, and then expand on the ones that did the job. Of course, it may well be cheaper per bottle to get a big set of one (like Game Color) to start with and then start picking up from other ranges to cover any weaknesses or gaps you find in that set.

If you prefer dropper bottles over pots, that's not necessarily a dealbreaker against paints that come in pots. You can purchase the dropper bottles separately and transfer the paints to them. That also is a fairly common practice for painters who prefer dropper bottles.

One thing I have found invaluable over the years. If the paint does not come with a mixing bead of some sort, add one. It helps stir the paint in the bottle much more thoroughly with significantly less effort.

CHAOS! PANIC! DISORDER!
My job here is done. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





I use Anita's from Hobby Lobby (likely any craft store really, I just have a Hobby Lobby close by) and they give me great results.
   
Made in gb
Frenzied Berserker Terminator




Southampton, UK

For ease of painting to a good tabletop standard I'd really consider GWs Contrast paints, or equivalent (e.g. Scale75 Instant Color). They're pricey but I find it so much quicker and easier to get to a tabletop finish.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Although I agree you might want to use paints from many brands it depends how deep into painting you want to go.

On of the reasons I think Green stuff world is so good is that they do a paint set for, blue, red green, black-white etc so if you want to do layering they provide the transitional colours to go from dark to light layers and highlights in each primary colour.
   
Made in gb
Battleship Captain





Bristol (UK)

I've been painting with a mix of VGC, VMC, and Citadel paints for a few years now.
TBH I hadn't noticed much of a difference beyond the fact that VMC does tend to separate quickly, and generally use them interchangeably depending on the colours I want.

Some specific colours may vary though, I find GW's Ulthuan Grey to be awful (it's chunky, separates, dries, urgh), but the equivalent VGC Ghost Grey works great.
Conversely, my VGC yellows (sun/golden yellow or something like that) are terrible (terrible opacity and doesn't thin very well), whereas GW's yellows (eg yriel yellow) work great.

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Cheers for the replies. In the end I've picked up the Vallejo GC Intoduction and GC Advanced packs, so 36 paints, for a very reasonable £50. That should give me a decent enough range to at least get started again and paint some models. Hopefully I'll be able to get along with most of them, but if not then I'll at least see the area's/colours that I need to try different ranges for and there are some excellent suggestions here, so thanks!
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Oh Canada!

Those look to cover pretty much the whole colour wheel and then some - I doubt you'll be wanting for more colours anytime soon.

Only thing I might consider adding straight away would be a couple of Army Painter Quickwashes (Strong and Dark Tones). And maybe a paint shaker if you feel like splurging.

Usually I just leave my Vallejo's on their sides so that it's easier to shake them back to mixed without wreaking my wrists, which aren't getting any younger. If I had mostly Vallejo I'd get a shaker for convenience, but it's by no means a necessity for most folks.
   
Made in gb
Frenzied Berserker Terminator




Southampton, UK

I think I bought the exact same 2 sets when I got back into Warhammer back around the start of 40K 6th edition... No complaints. You may find some of them need not so much shaking as stirring though.
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending






Late reply, but I'm doing a lot of painting with brushing on colored airbrush primers, followed by a wash, to reach tabletop standard. Then I'll highlight with hobby paints to reach advanced tabletop. I paint for gaming, not for display. Colored primers cut my painting time, are cheaper per ounce, and often have caps, so all you do is shake the bottle, and paint from the cap. Start with brown, flesh, and metallic for generic fantasy, then try other colors. Got some GW starter set pots on sale, so use them for other colors. On the game table, one shade of blue doesn't look any different than the other, but that doesn't stop me from picking up yet another hobby paint bottle on sale!

I use craft paints for terrain, and often undercoating. Some browns and greys for terrain, and khaki for skeleton bones and edge highlights of browns.

Instead of a wet palette, I'm trying out using those flip-top acrylic paint pots from a children's set of paints. Flip open the top, drop some hobby paint into it, add any thinner, and paint. Cheap, you mix shades, and I'm too lazy to clear space on my desk or refill the wet palette. I previously used my GW paint pots like this, and had good advanced tabletop results. Otherwise, I'll use a bottle cap as a dry palette. For advanced tabletop, washes are easier than mixing. If I ever take painting female faces seriously, I'll use a wet palette, though.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/08/10 16:38:44


Crimson Scales and Wildspire Miniatures thread on Reaper! : https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/103935-wildspire-miniatures-thread/ 
   
 
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