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Old to Warhammer but new to painting since May 2021, here is my progress.  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Kent, Engla-land.

Howdy.
I'm fairly new to the forum, never posted before.
I'm new to painting miniatures but not to Warhammer. I got into the tabletop in the early 90s but never had the time or patience to paint beyond primer. Disability has given me more time than I ever wanted (no more patience though haha) so I took up putting paint on plastic and I'm so glad I did, its so theraputic, when my one good hand wants to allow me to paint anyway!

I think I've posted the pictures in the order I painted them, I started with the Dreadnaught, the primer on it went really weird, almost like it melted but it's my first painted miniature so I've resisted stripping and repainting... so far.

The Necron is my most recent.

As you can see, I haven't even got around to basing yet, I'm still trying to master the basics of painting!

I would really appreciate any constructive criticism or suggestions to help me improve.

Cheers.
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This Dreadnaught is my first ever painted model. The primer went really weird.

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My first Necron. I hate the colours I chose but this is me feeling out colours to try to get a grasp of what works without relying on official colour schemes.

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Made in ch
Regular Dakkanaut





Zurich, Switzerland

Looks to me like you're off to a good start. The Dreadnought could have used some more washes on things like those chains to make them pop more, and I get the impression that maybe the paints are a bit thick on the Ultramarines? The white kneepad on that assault intercessor sergeant seems to have some visible brush strokes. Also, I wouldn't use pure white really ever, if you can avoid it. I did the kneepad on this guy with Celestra Grey, and as you can see, it really looks like white in context, just less garish and it's easier to get good coverage.



The detail on everything is really sharp, though. I can't imagine doing that with one hand.

   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Kent, Engla-land.

 spacehamster wrote:
Looks to me like you're off to a good start. The Dreadnought could have used some more washes on things like those chains to make them pop more, and I get the impression that maybe the paints are a bit thick on the Ultramarines? The white kneepad on that assault intercessor sergeant seems to have some visible brush strokes. Also, I wouldn't use pure white really ever, if you can avoid it. I did the kneepad on this guy with Celestra Grey, and as you can see, it really looks like white in context, just less garish and it's easier to get good coverage.



The detail on everything is really sharp, though. I can't imagine doing that with one hand.


Brilliant, thank you for the suggestions. I will take them to heart.

The Dreadnaught is a weird one, if you zoom in you can see that what looks like thick paint is actually the primer slumping on the miniature. It was a spray can primer by The Army Painter, just after this the cans seal (the end the paint comes out of) exploded and covered me in grey primer... Good fun! I'm lucky I wasn't looking at that end of the can really. I've never seen this issue before (I've been priming miniatures for years, only just started applying paint). As followed the instructions to the letter, I used the can just like all the primer I've been using for 20ish years. I'm pretty sure it was an issue with that particular can of primer. I have now bought an airbrush so I'm using Vallejo surface primer although I am casting envious eyes at Stynylrez (forgive me if that is misspelled) as I've been told it is significantly better, dries faster and is less like a coat of very thin plastic like the Vallejo primer.

The Ultramarines knee, those aren't brush strokes... that is the result of my first attempt at using Humbrol Decal Fix in place of water. I won't be doing that again, the decal fix seemed to make the transfers really static so they rolled up and stuck to themselves, I haven't had that issue with water so I'll stick to that for releasing the transfers for now, until I can get some Microsol as that has been highly recommended to me. I put the Humbrol on the knee, put some in a small pot and put the transfer in to release it, as soon as I took it out of the solution the transfer folded on itself and became useless. The one time I did get a transfer on the knee it still folded up and then it took layers of paint with it for good measure when I removed the mess.

I've had a lot of unusual problems since I started painting, I used to be very good with my hands but I'm still learning to do everything one handed so everything is a learning experience for me; and it's bloody awkward!

As they say though, we learn from our mistakes. At this rate I'll be a master by May next year

I really like your Ultramarine, I wouldn't have thought of going so light with the blue but I really like it. One day I might even trying weathering like yours, but not yet haha.
   
Made in ch
Regular Dakkanaut





Zurich, Switzerland

I use Microset/Microsol, but I never apply the Microset before the decal. I've had massive problems with that, and I don't like my decals to stick to the surface too quickly anyway - if you use water, you have much more working time to nudge them around until they're perfectly placed. I brush Microset on top after I've pressed them down with a cottonbud, then Microsol once they're dry.

Microsol I have to say really works wonders especially on Space Marine shoulder armor. I don't know how anyone gets those decals to look remotely good without it.

   
Made in gb
Frenzied Berserker Terminator




Southampton, UK

Looking good!

I use Humbrol Decalfix and haven't had that problem. I mean, if the decal comes off the backing before you've got it to the model then all bets are off, but the same applies with water or anything else. If I slide it off the backing directly on to the model with an old brush, it works fine. More Decalfix applied after the decal has set in place will help the decal to conform to the surface, same as using Microsol(? - I forget which one is which).
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Kent, Engla-land.

Crispy78 wrote:
Looking good!

I use Humbrol Decalfix and haven't had that problem. I mean, if the decal comes off the backing before you've got it to the model then all bets are off, but the same applies with water or anything else. If I slide it off the backing directly on to the model with an old brush, it works fine. More Decalfix applied after the decal has set in place will help the decal to conform to the surface, same as using Microsol(? - I forget which one is which).


And now I learn another new thing. I thought the idea was to remove the decal from the solution once it had released from the backing paper, that's what the instructions told me to do so I did it. It didn't occur to me, at all, to take the decal out while it was still attached to the backing paper but able to move. This is a major revelation to me, I can't believe it didn't occur to me! I feel bloody stupid now so I'm going to have a cup of tea and chastise myself. Today has not been a good day in modeling venture, I broke a drill bit off in Curzes chest while trying to pin his arm on, I lost the finger to his right hand up the hoover pipe then I forgot I'd last used my airbrush for priming so tried to paint Ahrimans cloak (or as my wife calls it, his skirt, poor fella. He's a sorcerer, not Harry Styles) with the pressure at 40 P.S.I. and made a massive mess.

Waiting for my new cooker to be delivered only to get a phone call from A.O. to say that it isn't coming today because some nut cases tried to steal the delivery van out the back of my house so the delivery drivers drove away and refuse to come back. My kids appreciated the resulting takeaway but me and the wife aren't happy that we don't know when we are going to have a working cooker!

Good times


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 spacehamster wrote:
I use Microset/Microsol, but I never apply the Microset before the decal. I've had massive problems with that, and I don't like my decals to stick to the surface too quickly anyway - if you use water, you have much more working time to nudge them around until they're perfectly placed. I brush Microset on top after I've pressed them down with a cottonbud, then Microsol once they're dry.

Microsol I have to say really works wonders especially on Space Marine shoulder armor. I don't know how anyone gets those decals to look remotely good without it.


I may have misread the Humbrol instructions (I don't think I did but it happens) which said to put the decalfix on first with a brush and then to brush it over the top after the decal has been applied. I hate it, it looks like I put a gloss varnish over the top of the decals, I want a nice matte finish to the decals where as I like a satin finish from paints as it will help me visualise where to put the highlights when I learn to do that.

I saw on ebay that there is Microsol and Microset, I have both in my basket ready for when I've got some spare money. Do I need both or is one capable of doing the job of both? It was only after buying a load of additives for my airbrush that I learned that one of their products can do the job of both although I forget which was which. I'd like to save money for now, what with Christmas coming and my 4 ravenous kids (as well as all the money I've blown on modelling gear since may) I need all the money I can get hahaha.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/09/21 21:45:10


 
   
Made in ch
Regular Dakkanaut





Zurich, Switzerland

madMARTYNmarsh wrote:

I may have misread the Humbrol instructions (I don't think I did but it happens) which said to put the decalfix on first with a brush and then to brush it over the top after the decal has been applied. I hate it, it looks like I put a gloss varnish over the top of the decals, I want a nice matte finish to the decals where as I like a satin finish from paints as it will help me visualise where to put the highlights when I learn to do that.


It's a good idea to topcoat over decals anyway. It'll unify the finish, make them look more like they're painted on rather than decals, and it'll protect them from your next coat of paint. This doesn't seem to be very common practice in miniature painting, but came from model kits originally, and it's very common to use topcoats before and after decals - gloss before, matte after.

madMARTYNmarsh wrote:

I saw on ebay that there is Microsol and Microset, I have both in my basket ready for when I've got some spare money. Do I need both or is one capable of doing the job of both?


You don't absolutely need either to get decals to stick to surfaces, they just help a lot. Basically, Microset helps the decal adhere to the surface, and Microsol slightly dissolves the carrier film, which helps it conform to irregular or curved surfaces better and also reduces silvering around edges if and when it happens. Most people will tell you that you really need Microset and Microsol isn't necessary, but I would say it's the opposite - Microset doesn't do anything the decal doesn't already do on its own (it does have glue on it), especially if you topcoat afterwards, but Microsol can make a massive difference for decals applied over curves, panel lines or other irregularities.

   
 
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