http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net
Overall I'm pleased with the outcome and learned a lot. Still need to really improve on the mud/dust layers as well as the chipping effect.

Regards,

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Are we going for a tank company??]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663109.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663109.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663196.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663196.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663202.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663202.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663210.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663210.page GMT
But the tank looks amazing, and the mud along the bottom of the hull and the golds are awesome!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663238.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663238.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663275.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/236343/663275.page GMT
do you have links to any tutorials on that technique ?
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1) Sorry... No tank company. I just painted this up for the experience. I play SM and Necrons currently.
2) OCD issues are OK - I purchased the tank already assembled. So a lot I was stuck with. I did gap fill the turret guns but didn't bother with the Oil tanks or even removing the mold lines from the smoke launchers. It truly was an experiment. If you flip it over...none of the bottom plating isn't done or even shaded. Just straight tan. I also don't have a driver. Since I went Vostroyen I will need to find a figure to convert. Not sure which one yet.
3) I picked a lot of the weathering tips from the FW mastercalss book. I have also been getting copies of Fine Scale Modeler magazine. The FW book is "OK". I'm not sure it is worth the cash but.


Steps.
1) Base coat. In this case I used Testors Model Master SAC Bomber Tan (it is a color I had laying around). I based the metal in boltgun. The orange lights were done in RMS Rust, worked up to Fire Orange, then VMC Light yellow.

2) Lining and Pin wash. Lining was first done with an acrylic mixture of Rust colored paint (parasite brown VGC and brown ink with thinner). I didn't like the look of the acrylic over acrylic so I decided it was time to man up and try oil techniques.

2.5) Chips - Chips are added by Sponge painting Chardon Granite on the vehicle. This is a touch item. So much or smudge it (see front of vehicle) and it doesn't look as natural. If you are very gun ho you can follow the chips up w/ highlighting the base w/ a sandy color to really make it stand out (this would be post weathering).

3) seal with acrylic gloss coat. a) the gloss coat allows the oil wash to flow easily. b) you cannot use a spray on gloss b/c the thinner (turpenoid) with the oil paint will mar the surface...eating through the enamel.

4) Mix black and burnt sienna oil paints w/ thinner. I don't know the exact ratio but a little paint goes a long way. Again lay into the lines and around rivots of the tank. You can also "filter" some of the panels which is a very thin glaze over the top of the entire panel to change it's hue. Makes it look dirtier. The joy of oils is they are workable for a long period of time (over an hour) and you can go back and clean up areas you don't like with a clean brush loaded with thinner.

5) Hull Rust. This is burnt sienna oil "splattered" on in places. There is a bit of thinner in the paint. Then raw thinner is placed under and around splatters. This thinner then pulls the oil paint into it and makes the streaking. This was my first go at this but it would be easy to try it on a piece of plastic card coated with your base color for trial and error. Again... your work time is long so you can even go back and remove near 100% of the oil paint if you don't like the effect.

6)Guns. several coats of black oil paint. A little bit of sepia glaze in spots. Then airbrushed black on the tips of the cannon. Black is also airbrushed on the engine openings/exhausts. The guns then get a a highlight of chainmail on the edges.

7) Treads/Mud - based in Chardon Granite. Black oil paint wash. Mud is added to treads with MIG pigments Dark mud mixed w/ an acrylic medium. this is splotched on then tapped in with a finger. On the treads most is wiped off the top to keep the mud mixture down and in the treads. Then a layer of dust is added to the treads with MIG Brick dust. This is done with a dry pigment. most disppeared when I sealed the tank.... So I will most likely reapply.

I don't have any links to the techniques but most fine modeling forums will have some of this. It is a lot like figure painting there are several different ways to achieve similar results.



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