http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net Hello again, well while i get my armies delivered, I'm still looking for tips on painting, i already had answers for painting them as Imperial Fist's, which i'm very grateful, but now i got new doubt,on the priming techniques... i've been practiving on palstic soldiers (the ones you can get by the bucket) but it looks like the quality of the plastic is not the same as the one gw uses in its miniatures, and also i haven't got my citadel pains yet, so i bouth a really cheap acrilic paints just to get a hold of the pulse and such, so these are my doubts:

Do I need to use some kind of sealant with the basecoating on my Wh40k figure?

Are citadel piants made with somo sort of sealant mixed?

I mean, besides the fact that i have to wash the blister with all the parts as soon as Im bout to paint, but how can i prevent the paint coming off?

Thanks Guys, your tips, will do a lot of help. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969564.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969564.page GMT
as far as I know, no paint contains a sealant in it by default unless it specifically states that it does.

as for how to keep the paint from flaking off, sealant helps, but the best way is to just be kind to them. Only handle with clean hands, don't literally throw them into a pile when they die on the table top, etc.

as for white or black primer, that depends if you want grimdark imperial fists which have been fighting in the mud, or shiny plastic imperial fists who look just like they walked off the assembly line.
]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969590.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969590.page GMT GW models usually a base coat of primer and then your paint will do. I've found that it's hard to chip off the paint from the GW plastic models so you really don't need a sealant. If we're talking metal figures then yes, you will definitely need a sealant. You also said cheap acrylic paints, what kind are you using? That may also play a factor in how well they set on your model and how easy they are to work with. I recommend either Tamiya or Citadel acrylics. They're somewhat pricey ($3-$4), but they have a wide range of colors and are pretty durable once they dry. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969612.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969612.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969644.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1969644.page GMT
I'm planning to use citadel paints, since here in Mexico, those are the ones I can get, other kinds of paints, like vallejo paints and tamiya, are hard to find, (I've been looking)., lemme tell you the name of the paints, but i assure you they're not the best quality.... "Politech Pinturas Acrilicas (Acrylic paints in spanish) but yeah, the kinds of plastic are way different.

INcredible, how come people have told me thta white primer is a hard color, and I've reading from this replies and other sites on the web, that it's a faster and better color to prime with.


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Great tips!!! Thankx

I'm planning to use citadel paints, since here in Mexico, those are the ones I can get, other kinds of paints, like vallejo paints and tamiya, are hard to find, (I've been looking)., lemme tell you the name of the paints, but i assure you they're not the best quality.... "Politech Pinturas Acrilicas (Acrylic paints in spanish) but yeah, the kinds of plastic are way different.

INcredible, how come people have told me thta white primer is a hard color, and I've reading from this replies and other sites on the web, that it's a faster and better color to prime with.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1972402.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1972402.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1973652.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1973652.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1978664.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1978664.page GMT About the brushes? I have bought a set of Rodin brushes 0,00, 000 and a 10... since an experienced whgamer recommended me to use those, because they are resistant and high quality... but I know there are ones called "Malinsky" or some-like-german-name.

Any thoughts?

Thnx.
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It is the type of fibre that is used in the tip of the brush. They are generally thought to be the top end of the paint brush spectrum and the characteristics of the fibre itself lends themselves towards miniature painting quite well.

Furthermore, often high end Kolinsky Sable brushes (like Windsor and Newton Series 7) have their fibres hand selected and are made by hand, so they quality of the brush can often be higher.

They will cost more than other brushes, but with some care they can last you for years.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1987210.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1987210.page GMT
Things that will affect adhesion are:

>mould release agent on the mini from casting
>over handling of the mini will leave oils from your skin
>poor priming, if you over shake your primer you will add to much aerosol to the paint giving the primer a more gloss quality in regards to adhesion.

If you do not water your paints do not get Kolinsky brushes. The reason you use sable is for the reservoir of paint it retains. If you are not used to this method then either get used to it or go for synthetic brushes instead as these are far better for out of the pot painting.
Also personally I find Da Vinci to be a better quality of brush but that is just personal preference.

As winter says as well these brushes are an investment, you have to take care great care with them. Be aware also that cleaning products for the brushes have to be carefully selected as the brush is a natural product it does not respond well to harsh cleaners]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1987360.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1987360.page GMT
I've seen that they wash the plastic parts while the're on the blister and then cut them out, can it be any kind of soap, or is also some recommendations?

Thanx for all the tips on brushes "Winter" and "lenny"]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1988707.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1988707.page GMT one brand of brushmakers that produce Kolinsky sable brushes, they are in my opinion an exceptional quality, however I have not used Windsor Newtons so I cannot compare. And I'm not saying the newer painters shouldn't use them, just be aware that they are less forgiving of bad treatment. In fact check this out, its long but research is always good if you don't want to waste money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eACqcAQdw2U


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For cleaning your sprue use warm water with a little bit of dish soap into it. The soap needs to have a degreasing element to it or it will not break down the release agent. And as I say insure that the water is warm and not hot so as to not warp any of the components.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990261.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990261.page GMT
I've never washed them and never had a problem. The thing is, most of this is personal preference. Just have a go with the right kind of paints first, use the brushes then upgrade as and when you feel it is necessary.

Your first set of brushes you'll probably render useles quite quickly until you learn how to look after them. Again, with brush care some people are particular with adding specialist brush cleaner and brush conditioner etc, some just dunk in water, rinse, lick to a point and done.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990540.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990540.page GMT OP was asking things that may affect adhesion, plus its better to have the knowledge and then discard as appropriate I find.

Your definitely right this is all preference, though some things are not optional like using the wrong products on bristles, this is where you need to be careful because else the cost of the hobby rises dramatically.
]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990727.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/1990727.page GMT Hello again, and thanks for all the comments and responses, they are a lot of help for me. Now I come with yet another question, this one regarding washes from citadel. I don't know what wash it's most suitable for an imperial fist chapter painting scheme, I know that it is most likely a personal prefference, but i would like to read your comments about it.

I was planning on using the Badab Black Wash on my figures, but since I'll be pianting them yellow, would the Gryphonne Sepia Wash be more suitable? Or not use any kind of wash?

Thanx.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2015423.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2015423.page GMT
You could avoid using any wash at all, but unless you plan on manually shading the models, they'll appear pretty flat. The washes help add definition to the details of the model, especially the lines in the armour, the legs and arms for example.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2016432.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2016432.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2021234.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2021234.page GMT
Personally I build my yellows from a white undercoat, washed with develan mud, base coated Iyaden DS - leaving the recesses showing, wash Sepia, final highlights.

The brown wash gives a darker shadow whilst the sepia lends a yellow hue thus helping to tie in the shadows and hightlights.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2026170.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2026170.page GMT
By the way, does "bad moon yellow" exists or existed in itadel colours? Is it the same as golden yellow? Or how can i achieve that colour?

And, Does metallic paints need to be diluted? I heard that it spreads the "shiny-thingy's-out-of-them"

Thnx!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2027225.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2027225.page GMT
With metallics a small amount of water can be used if the paint is slightly older or drier than normal, however excess amounts of water will lead to a very washed out looking metallic paint.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2032428.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2032428.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2033707.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2033707.page GMT
I wouldn't let my 3-year-old use mine, but I'd say if you're old enough to be playing 40K and posting here, you're old enough for decent brushes.

Why hold yourself back with inferior tools.

Put another way, when you're spending $30-$50 for a box of minis, saving $5 by buying a cheap brush is a false economy.


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Bad Moon Yellow was discontinued some time back. Just add some white to Sunburst Yellow.

Golden Yellow is too orange.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2033899.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2033899.page GMT
I know that white and yellow are bright colors and struggle on covering dark colour such as grey and black... please help. It's worth to mention this is my first time painting, so the only idea i have is from the valuable tips i have from dakka and youtube, but for me... it turn to be quite a wear-down and frustation.

Hope you can orient me.

Thanx]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2037843.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2037843.page GMT
Can we take a step back here though - what primer are you using, if any?]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2037911.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2037911.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2039830.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2039830.page GMT
Spray Primer, whether it's GW or other
Airbrush Primer
Brushed Gesso (from an art store)

Your skull white is the base coat, which goes over the primer. If you use a white primer you could skip the basecoat, although you would probably still want a thin coat of Skull White.

Real primer has "teeth" - you can feel a slight roughness that helps the following layers of paint to adhere.

If you can't find GW or similar primer, try a car paint supplier, but make sure it's safe for plastic!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2040073.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/319392/2040073.page GMT