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Photo is kinda dark so we're missing some detail here, but -

1. Nit picky I know, but you missed a couple of mold lines.
2. Skin tone is flat - you can get more depth with either washes or highlights depending on your preferred method of painting.
3. Personally, I'd break up the colors more - go for some different colors on the metal portions, and wires especially.
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For the skin. I always use a basecoat of waagh flesh, then a highlight with warpstone glow and then a final highlight with 1/1 warpstone and goblin green. then wash it with some athonian camoshade. It's really easy.

I've put a picture of a warboss i've painted up recently so you can see what I mean. Cheers and good luck painting your waagh!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/506694/5271144.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/506694/5271144.page GMT
There's a 'tabletop' quality of painting, and then there's "painting for the tabletop", at least in my mind.

The first one denotes a general level of painting quality that looks good on the tabletop, but might not look awesome close up.

The second one, "painting for the tabletop", means (to me, at least), thinking about how your paint job will look at arm's length (or further), on a table full of terrain and other models, instead of in a well-lit close up shot. Even some world-class, award winning models don't look good on the tabletop (they weren't painted for it--they were painted as display models). If you are aiming for models to use in a game, use some (not all, but some) bright colors, high contrasts, and highlights. These will pick out important or interesting areas of the model, and make it stand out and look distinctive on the board.

For example, with this model (you don't have to do ALL of these things, and doing all of them might be too much anyway).

A brighter green would make the ork more distinct from the kopta.
Bright teef would make the ork's face stand out, or a lighter colored helmet/goggles.
Brightly colored wires or painted/bright metal gubbins on the kopta will help give it definition.
Rusty or scraped metal panels will also give the kopta some contrasting details.
If something is too bright or shiny, dirt or oil stains can also be added to tone it down a little.

Since this is orky, you also have the advantage of grot paint jobs. You can slap some deliberately sloppy slogans, flames, or glyphs on the model to give it a bit of color and it won't look wrong.

Even models that are painted to a poor 'tabletop standard' can look pretty good when they are all out there on the battlefield together. Especially if you are painting for gaming more than display, don't be discouraged by how a model looks in a single closeup shot. With orks, you are sometimes painting dozens, or hundreds, of models. Not everything needs to be painted to even your own highest personal standards. Similarly, while I'm a mortal foe of mold lines, they are much less noticeable on the game table than on a display model. Allocate your time accordingly. 30 painted orks with some mold lines looks better on the battlefield than 5 painted ones without mold lines and 25 gray plastic ones.

Especially if you are painting for gaming, post models 'on the board' and not in close up shots (or at least, include some tabletop shots). When people see individual closeups, they assume you are going for detailed display models, and critique them accordingly. If you, on the other hand, post a shot of 3 deffkoptas on the game table, people look at them differently. They will critique less minor details, and instead point out how the whole unit looks. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/506694/5271762.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/506694/5271762.page GMT

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