<![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "finished dreadnought"]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293493.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293493.page GMT finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293505.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293505.page GMT finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293516.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293516.page GMT finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293539.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293539.page GMT finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293878.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5293878.page GMT Re:finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5294046.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5294046.page GMT finished dreadnought
If you don't want to spend a lot of time on details like that just leave them dark or muted tones so they don't draw attention away from areas you spent time on.

If you want to keep the red it would benefit from shading like the blue areas have. Start with a dark red or dark red grey mix and move up to lighter shades in the areas the light would hit.

Your gold also looks a little flat. The metallic paint helps hide it a little bit, but a slight drybrushing of mithril silver over the gold would give it some depth.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5294966.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5294966.page GMT finished dreadnought
dreadful tom wrote:
Your right about the reds i have got into bad habit of rushing the final touches and the red was sort of sploshed on to get it done quick. I think that it would be better to use maybe a dark green on the Dread for the wires not a red as for the metalic blue comment it was dry brushed all silver before i painted it blue so maybe that why? Again i will post up an ironclad in about a week ( i have only just primed it) and try to improve again. Cheers

You are making good advances here, so don't let up. There are a few things you definitely need to work on to help make your model complete.
First, if you bump an area with the brush that you didn't mean to, fix it by either going back over it with the right color or removing the paint. My general workflow when painting is: prep, prime, base color, satin varnish, details, gloss varnish, oil wash, matte varnish. That is the bear minimum. The reason you would use a satin or matte varnish after your base coat is to create a "save point" in your work. Since your underlying base color is protected with a coat of varnish or two, most mistakes you make filling in details (i.e.- paint getting where you didn't want it) can be fixed with a bush load of isoproyl alcohol. Just brush the alcohol over the mistake and wipe it off with a clean brush or a finger.
Second, you need to work on your basing. Putting a model on a well done base can turn an average model in to a real eye catcher. Here is a pretty good video on the basics of basing. This is a good video on make a cool base in a couple of minutes with only a few supplies. Once you get that under your belt, you can move on to stuff like this, this, this, or this (at the end of the video).
There are a few things you can do to spice up the battle damage to something a little more top level. This a good spring board for simple battle damage. There a plenty of other videos out there showcasing the various weather techniques modelers use. Most of these are a little more on the "advanced" side of things, but it never hurts to give it a whirl.
I would also recommend checking out From The Warp. Ron is on a bit of a sabbatical right now, but he has some amazing tutorials and painting theory articles archived on his blog. It is definitely worth checking out, especially because all of the painting articles are geared towards brush painting instead of airbrushing.
Again, you are making good progress and that is the most important part. While you may never reach "world class" status, as long as you learn more about the hobby, improve your skills, and most importantly enjoy what you do, you will be successful.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5295079.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5295079.page GMT finished dreadnought http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5296135.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5296135.page GMT finished dreadnought
dreadful tom wrote:
Cheers for that scootypuffjunior i have looked at from the warp but wanted to get a more solid 'basic' skill set before trying anything to advanced so as not to to get ahead of myself. I don't game so have the luxury of bring able to paint whatever i like after the three dreads i have got a world eaters contemptor that i want to look really nice. As for the varnish that is a fantastic idea i would never have thought of myself so i will do that for the nest model ( can you recommend a varnish and what is it like to paint over varnish?) . I am just about to watch the videos you sent me maybe they will say. Cheers again to everyone who has commented i will put my next dread up in about a week for you all to compare. Cheers dreadful Tom

As far as varnishes, just about any of them will work. Vallejo offers gloss, satin, and matte varnish available in 17 ml. droppers and 60 ml. bottles (and maybe 200 ml. bottles, but I haven't seen them) bottles for brush and airbrush use. They also offer those same varnishes in 400 ml. aerosol spray cans. Liquitex also offers varnishes in 237 ml. bottles that are available in big-box arts & crafts stores (at least they do here in the States, I cannot confirm if they are readily available across the Pond). Testors also offers an array of varnishes, but their big selling point is their Dullcoat varnish, which is essentially an ultra-matte varnish that leaves an amazing finish on a model. It tends to be a bit pricey, but it is totally worth it.

As far as painting over top of varnish, most of the time it is just like painting over another layer of paint. Gloss varnish is an exception to this as paint tends not to grab it very well and it is mainly used as a layer of protection (from oil paints, scratches, rough handling, etc.) before a final coat of matte varnish. I am of the opinion that this is not necessary, but a lot of folks do it so I suppose it is worth a mention. Gloss varnish can also be used to salvage a model that has had a coat of spray varnish "frost", which is cause from the quality of the varnish and the atmospheric conditions it was used in (i.e.- very low humidity or cool temperatures). If a coat of satin or matte varnishes frosts, just hit the model with some gloss varnish, wait for it to dry, and then try again with the satin/matte varnish. Painting over satin and matte varnish is just like normal painting, just be careful with satin varnish as it has the ability to promote capillary action if the paint is very thin of mixed with flow improver.

EDIT: Here, I also found this site this morning and these are some damn fine tutorials that should help you step your game up. Good luck!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5296304.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/508054/5296304.page GMT