roastbeefaweefs wrote:
With layering, you'll want to make sure your layer color is thinned down considerably so that only a small amount of the pigment is left with each layer, otherwise you'll lose the original color as shown in your photographs. Additionally, rather than laying the color on the whole model, apply the lighter green on the edges (like Slipstream suggests) to highlight the target green color. The idea is to make the base color pop out to the eye, and by thinning your layer color down and applying it selectively to armor edges, you'll achieve a much better effect.

Grafeld wrote:

Ah, thanks! Should the layering be thing like a wash or shade? Or just a tad thicker than that?

 roastbeefaweefs wrote:

Grafeld wrote:

Ah, thanks! Should the layering be thing like a wash or shade? Or just a tad thicker than that?

You'll want it a bit thicker than a wash, otherwise it'll start pooling at the edges. Start at a ratio of about 3:1 distilled water to paint, and paint a line on your palette. It should look a little watery, but still leave a consistent transparent layer of pigment. If it starts pooling up like a wash, add a dab of paint, and it it's still opaque, add a little bit of thinner. Each paint will thin differently, and it really comes down to trial and error to get it right. Nice thing about thin paint is that it gives you more room to cover up mistakes without losing detail or adding brush lines than paint straight from the pot!

 roastbeefaweefs wrote:
The trick with washes is to avoid flat areas. The wash needs nooks and crannies to flood into for them to work their magic. Here's how I apply my washes:

1. Dip the brush in the wash, then touch it to a piece of paper towel to wick away some of the wash. This will help keep the model from being flooded.

2. On rough areas with plenty of pits and cracks for the wash to pool up into, I brush the wash evenly over the entire area, making sure the wash is distributed evenly across the area.

3. On predominantly smooth areas, like the edging round shoulder pads, I carefully paint across the corner where the shoulder pad and the edge meet, cleaning up any pooling or other errors with a Q-Tip. However, if you use a wash like Biel-Tan Green, you probably won't notice any glitches since the tone so similar to the base color.

As far as the order in which to paint, I suggest base coating, washing, and then layering your highlight colors. This will allow you to fine tune any issues with your wash.