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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass"]]></title>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I'm about to start painting my venom, primed it and left the glass from the cockpit aside to attach at the end.<br /> <br /> sorry if this has already been asked but, anyone knows of a nice way to tint the glass? I've seen buypainted video already. but is there other ways?<br /> <br /> I'm thinking on using a citadel glaze, probably the waywatcher green on the inside and hope it sticks to the unprimed surface and glue it. Since it won't  be touched from the inside there shouldn't be any problems. right?<br /> <br /> have anyone of you tried this before? or do you have any better ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 9 Jul 2013 23:55:29]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ The Apathetic Fish]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Tamiya clear, sprayed on if possible.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 01:03:53]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ helotaxi]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've also seen it done by dipping the windshield in Tamiya clear holding it in such a way that the excess collects and drips off of a hard corner, then lightly soaking it up into a paper towel. <br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> Either way, because it's solvent based, Tamiya will stick better than <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(50);'>GW</span> Glaze. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 02:15:31]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Badger_Bhoy]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Honestly that buypainted method is probably the best way <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(72);'>imo</span>.<br /> <br />  I just finished doing that to the canopies for my dakkajet and was surprised at how easy it is.<br /> <br /> The Humbrol clear paints are pretty forgiving and easy to work with, just mask the glass well and paint the edges and you're all set!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 03:17:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ TheCupcakeCowboy]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Go to the store, but some of that "stick on window tint" and cut off a <i>really</i> small piece <img src="/s/i/a/baf5f2e54c6b17d5c5d39aecadfa1272.gif" border="0">]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 03:51:05]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ dementedwombat]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/078f1848c791a9b61d733e45dbadd6ae.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/538806/5828925.page"><b>dementedwombat wrote:</b></a><br/>Go to the store, but some of that "stick on window tint" and cut off a <i>really</i> small piece <img src="/s/i/a/baf5f2e54c6b17d5c5d39aecadfa1272.gif" border="0"></div></blockquote><br /> <br /> You can buy polarising light filter film specifically for miniature usage.  It won't work so well on a curved surface I don't imagine, not without some careful cutting, but I've used it for the little triangle HUD bit on the Eldar canopies and it looks quite nice.  Not sure how available it is outside of Japan though.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 06:16:59]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Chrysis]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Aviation modeling trick - take some Klear/Future Floor Polish (or whatever the current/local iteration is - it's gone by many names over the years, and that's only one formulation in a whole family of similar products), tint it slightly with ink, then dip the canopy in and let the excess run off.  Dries quite hard, with an even gloss, and gives you greater control over the color choice and intensity than clear paints.<br /> <br /> Whatever method you use, it's always best to test first - see if you can't scrape up some clear plastic (clamshell packaging, broken CD case, etc.) to serve as a guinea pig, before you commit.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 10 Jul 2013 20:00:51]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ oadie]]></author>
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				<title>Tinting Dark eldar Venom's glass</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/5e02f04ed941ddac2454f607c2c9ea7e.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/538806/5831325.page"><b>oadie wrote:</b></a><br/>Aviation modeling trick - take some Klear/Future Floor Polish (or whatever the current/local iteration is - it's gone by many names over the years, and that's only one formulation in a whole family of similar products), tint it slightly with ink, then dip the canopy in and let the excess run off.  Dries quite hard, with an even gloss, and gives you greater control over the color choice and intensity than clear paints.<br /> <br /> Whatever method you use, it's always best to test first - see if you can't scrape up some clear plastic (clamshell packaging, broken CD case, etc.) to serve as a guinea pig, before you commit.</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> <br /> Thanks! I'll try this out, seems like a pretty good Idea <img src="/s/i/a/c944477abc92c1c101da485e07ff06d8.gif" border="0"><br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> <blockquote><div><a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/538806/5829213.page"><b>Chrysis wrote:</b></a><br/><blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/078f1848c791a9b61d733e45dbadd6ae.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/538806/5828925.page"><b>dementedwombat wrote:</b></a><br/>Go to the store, but some of that "stick on window tint" and cut off a <i>really</i> small piece <img src="/s/i/a/baf5f2e54c6b17d5c5d39aecadfa1272.gif" border="0"></div></blockquote><br /> <br /> You can buy polarising light filter film specifically for miniature usage.  It won't work so well on a curved surface I don't imagine, not without some careful cutting, but I've used it for the little triangle HUD bit on the Eldar canopies and it looks quite nice.  Not sure how available it is outside of Japan though.</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> Thanks!! I didn't know such thing existed! I'm going to look it up.<br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/a6b29f44689a251472222db60d920e6c.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/538806/5828840.page"><b>TheCupcakeCowboy wrote:</b></a><br/>Honestly that buypainted method is probably the best way <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(72);'>imo</span>.<br /> <br />  I just finished doing that to the canopies for my dakkajet and was surprised at how easy it is.<br /> <br /> The Humbrol clear paints are pretty forgiving and easy to work with, just mask the glass well and paint the edges and you're all set!</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> Alright! thanks, but where do you buy Humbrol clear paint? I'm having a hard time finding some products sometimes. I'm in the US and I thought on using freak flex, the paints Girlpainting used for blood effects once and it's a clear paint too, but I can't find them either. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 15 Jul 2013 08:19:39]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ The Apathetic Fish]]></author>
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