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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Tau Manta on the cheap!"]]></title>
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				<title>Tau Manta on the cheap!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ So recently I was asked if I could build Tau Manta for a friend who didn't feel like spending the big bucks at Forgeworld. The stipulations were that it had to be cheap, and had to be built in two weeks time. I thought about it... and took the challenge.  So, here's all the build photos and a quick step-by-step to what I did, for anyone who feels like following suit.<br /> <br /> <b>Materials used: </b><br /> 2-3 sheets of 36"x48" foamcore board<br /> Maxi-cure extra thick superglue<br /> Elmers school glue<br /> 1/4"x1/4"x36" basswood rods<br /> 6x Pop rivets<br /> 1" wooden dowel<br /> 2" diameter cardboard tube<br /> 8x finishing nails<br /> 1 tube painters caulk (white)<br /> 1/4" aluminum channel from Home Depot<br /> <br /> <b>Tools used:</b><br /> 18" metal ruler<br /> Exacto knives and a few blades<br /> Fine point sharpy<br /> A good pencil<br /> Graph paper<br /> caulk gun<br /> <br /> <b>Step 1: Drawing out the design </b><br /> I started out by looking for general dimensions of the Manta on Forgeworld. From there I drew a basic outline on some taped-together graph paper.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520979-Graph%20paper%20design.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520979_sm-Graph%20paper%20design.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 2: Cutouts</b><br /> I used foamcore board for 90% of the ship, cutting lines traced on in pencil and then cut out with a jigsaw with a very fine blade. I also used an exacto knife for all the smaller cutting, but it work out just as well for the larger pieces.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520980-Initial%20Cutouts.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520980_sm-Initial%20Cutouts.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 3: Starting the gluing</b><br /> I used both Elmers school glue and Maxi-cure super glue to put this model together. The Elmers was used for any of the large face-to-face glue areas of foam while Maxi-cure was used for any of the edge gluing.  When putting the wings together, I glued a flat piece (about 2" wide) down the entire seam so that it would be face-glued to each wing and keep the whole thing together. The problem I had was that the foam wasn't perfectly flat, so it would warp up in spots and not stick properly. My solution? Bricks and clamps.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520981-Gluing.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520981_sm-Gluing.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 4: Putting it together</b><br /> Once I had the major surfaces glued together I started drawing out the smaller pieces (based on images from Forgeworld) and working to try and make foam (with all it's hard right-angles) come out to look similar. It was a test in aesthetic art that just kind of worked out.  I made sure all my cut lines were pre-measured and cut straight so that all the seams would line up nicely, then I started gluing it all together.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520982-Assembly%201.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520982_sm-Assembly%201.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> Laying it out before gluing to make sure pieces fit and look good.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520983-Assembly%202.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520983_sm-Assembly%202.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> A lot more assembled, with a Tau Hammerhead for scale. I used the basswood to reinforce corner joints. The bottom compartment (to the right) is attached by sliding it and locking into place by a set of 4 basswood tabs that fit into holes in the main wing/frame (hidden under the engines and the intake tubes)<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520984-Asessembly%203.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520984_sm-Asessembly%203.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> Glued together with the top compartment closed.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520985-Assembly%204.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520985_sm-Assembly%204.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 5: Detailing!</b><br /> For the detail bits, I initially thought about dremeling out lines on the wing/frame, but decided that would be too much work and take too much time with too much chance to screw it up.  Much too much all around.  Instead I cut out pieces of cereal box in shapes that looked good to me, and glued them on with Elmers.  For the turrets I cut down the dowel and attached basswood for the barrel.  Finally, I used the pop rivets to act as a bushing on which the turrets could fit snugly, and still rotate.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520988-Detail%20work.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520988_sm-Detail%20work.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> This is the bottom of the wing where you can see the pop rivets attached, and some of the detail bits I put on the bottom<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520991-Turret%20Mounts.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520991_sm-Turret%20Mounts.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> For the air intakes on the engines, I used cereal box cardboard again, overlapped and glued in place with superglue and Elmers. I would recommend gluing brown cardboard side down, since the shiny side paints better.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520986-Detail%20work%201.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520986_sm-Detail%20work%201.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> Quick view of the interior and some of the detail bits.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520987-Detail%20work%202.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520987_sm-Detail%20work%202.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br />  <b>Step 6: Coating and Finishing</b><br /> Before painting, I used the painters caulk to fill in all the divots in the foam edges anywhere I found them, as well as any joints that were not perfectly seated, and anywhere else I felt needed some touching up.  I then coated down every exposed foam edge with Elmers glue, since the solvant in spraypaint dissolves foam.  After the glue and caulk dried, I took it outside and primed the whole thing.<br /> <br /> Looking pretty all in white  <img src="/s/i/a/5d13fa41280d6fdef786d41bc175d3f6.gif" border="0"> <br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520989-Primed.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520989_sm-Primed.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 6: The Stand</b><br /> To make a stand I used 1/4" metal rod that I got from JoAnn Fabric on clearance from their home and garden section for a flower hanger or some thing. Cut it. Bent it.  I super glued the aluminum channel on the underside of the wings on each side of the bottom compartment so that the rods had somewhere to sit. For the base, I used a wooden plaque I also picked up at JoAnn for a couple bucks. Drilled some base holes for the rods, put some foam furniture pads on the bottom, and will prime it later.  <br /> <br /> Boom. Stand.<br /> <a href="http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/520990-The%20Stand.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/7/26/520990_sm-The%20Stand.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b>Step 7: The Damage</b><br /> All in all this build cost me around $20 plus time. I spent probably a grand total of 10-12 hours of work, mainly cause I was figuring out how to cut each piece of foam out to look like I wanted it to look. Once I started going and had my designs down, the work actually went pretty quick.  It was decently easy, a lot of fun, and my friend loved it!  If you've got any questions on what else I did, used or want some clarification on anything, let me know.  Otherwise, thanks for checking out my Manta, and I hope to be back with more projects!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 27 Jul 2013 01:50:44]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Pyromaniakal22]]></author>
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				<title>Tau Manta on the cheap!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ This is awesome! Obviously you have a knack for scratchbuilding, and it really shows how much work you've put in.  Not only is it clear what it is, it looks great, and looks quality.  I would love to see it when it's all finished and painted!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:35:28]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Badger_Bhoy]]></author>
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				<title>Tau Manta on the cheap!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Looks amazing!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:39:15]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ThouShallNotHeal]]></author>
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