http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net
I have a kind of chronic tendinitis that can flare up at times, and I want to minimize any further damage as I get older. Holding those fiddly little file can exacerbate the problem.

I had the pleasure of using a friend's dremel recently and worked quite well cutting stuff for a terrain project, but I also noted that it had tips for various purposes, including sanding or grinding. These tips seem capable of doing fine detail work. Anyone use it for such?

I figured that since I hate the mold line cleaning aspect of miniatures, and need the tool for other purposes, I should get one. I was thinking of purchasing a Dremel 7.2v stylus version, but am more than willing to try other brands of this type of tool.

Of course, being health conscious and trained by my various art instructors about material safety, I'm also going to create a system to capture any dust coming off while using using this.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993059.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993059.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993417.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993417.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993434.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993434.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993444.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993444.page GMT
http://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=7300

I have seen this one used on You Tube vids and seems reasonable not too overpowered. I may consider getting one myself at one point.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993519.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5993519.page GMT HF) and they pretty rarely see any use for modeling, especially not for fine tasks like mold line removal. I'm currently mangling a large resin cake topper for resculpting, though, and the RTX is proving invaluable. For my general modeling, though, not so much. I even opt for my pin vice when drilling over the cordless drill/driver, let alone the much higher speed rotary tools.

Since you have a health issue, though, it's well worth considering your options. Have you tried modifying your hand tools for greater comfort/less strain? If your files are too fiddly, consider beefing up the handles. Naked tangs (with a traditional taper, at least) can be driven into undersized holes in dowel sections to give you chunkier grips (I chopped up an old wooden broom handle for some of my larger metal-working files, but empty handles are available if you prefer a more professional finish). Most model-sized files, though, have narrow rods for handles, instead of traditional tangs (with or without rubber covers, which can always be removed). Those handles can easily be mounted into a large pin vice or razor saw handle (X-acto style saw handles double as large knife/chisel blade handles - just check that the collet will fit). A larger grip will relieve a lot of strain on your hand, like mounting models onto corks or paint pots when painting.

If hand tool use is still too strenuous, even with more comfortable grips, consider getting a flex shaft over a Dremel or similar. Not the accessory (although that will reduce hand fatigue and increase control if using a rotary tool) - the actual tool, as used by jewelers and wood carvers. Same idea as a suspended rotary tool plus flex shaft, but the dedicated tools generally have higher torque and, more importantly, can function at much lower RPM. The foot pedal speed control is quite nice, as well. They can run you hundreds of dollars, but there are less expensive versions available, on par with mid-range Dremel kits. Harbor Freight's offering, for example, only costs as much as an entry-level Dremel (but may, like many HF power tools, require a little TLC before use to really shine - read the reviews, if interested).]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994181.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994181.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994190.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994190.page GMT
I own Dremel 3000 by the way.

It is way to powerful for mold lines. Even on a slowest setting. It will easily bite into the plastic and finecast. One small shake of your hand and detail is gone...

Drilling plastic - beware - it will go ok for first 4-5 mil, after that it will start melting plastic inside. Final results may vary...

Mold lines - old school is the way to go

Good luck.

Cheers]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994465.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5994465.page GMT
Even at the lowest RPM setting, the Dremel is too aggressive for mold lines and work on infantry.

All you need to clean up mold lines is a metal edge, such aa the back of the hobby knive for most of us.
If the handle size is the issue, get a big wooden handle, drill a hole for the shaft of one of these metall stick cheap-o hobby knifes in the front and stick it in there.
Add some glue if it has play. That way you can change blades when you break them.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5995042.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5995042.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5995124.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/548830/5995124.page GMT