http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net So, I know you should use rubbing alcohol to make sure rust pigments stay settled on the model, but the last time I did that, I proceeded to spray a varnish over the model, and the pigment got all over the model. I guess my question is how do you make sure the rust pigment stays put so it doesn't end up spreading on unwanted areas when spraying a varnish? Last time I waited about 24 hours, and it still made a mess. Any tips, advice etc.?]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6023522.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6023522.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6023781.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6023781.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6024136.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6024136.page GMT
MIG also produce a product that they market as a pigment fixer and I prefer it over straight alcohol, so you could also invest in that.]

Looks like this:

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There is nothing in alcohol that will make a pigment stick, pigments are just finely ground colored dirt. Alcohol doesnt make 'mud' any different than water does.

Now- its possible individual manufacturers might put binders in their pigments that activate with alcohol- and not water? But that seems a bit of a stretch. But if thats the case I'd be happy to know.

For years, like 13, I have used alcohol as a carrier to spread mineral pigments made from pastels and natural pigments-long before they were a modeling product for gamers. I used it because it weathered alot faster and dries quick. I learned this from old model rail road guys who had been doing it for years. When the alcohol evaporates- the pigments will still wipe right off, just like if I use water.

Now, you can affix pigments with a variety of products. The Pigment Fixer Winter linked will surely work. Secret Weapon also has one out now, as does AK Interactive and Vallejo.

For those that dont have those, varnishes work too, if you spray them on- airbrush with the lowest PSI possible is the best option. A rattle can clear coat has little control over pressure, but you can pray it from a little farther back.

I personally use a mister bottle with some watered down matte medium as a fixative. Its an old hairspray bottle I repurposed, and it spray a fine mist that doesnt disturb the pigments at all.

Its worth noting that gloss varnishes can really wash out your pigment weathering(much more than flats do). So if you plan on clear coating a model- practice/experiment. You may have to apply a few extra layer and 'over weather' with the pigments to get the results you want to see after a gloss varnish is applied.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6027008.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/550521/6027008.page GMT