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We're planning to build a few X-Wing tables, but having never built a gaming table before, we have a few questions:

1. We're going to use MDF. What depth do we need? The tables will be 36"x36" (92x92 cm).

2. What's an easy way to make the sides look good? We'll have them cut at the store, but I've read that just painting MDF cuts will take forever due to how much it soaks up and end up not look too good? Framing them is an option, but as they are FLGS boards we'd like to keep it simple.

3. How much of an issue is warping? Do we need to close the board somehow? If so, what's good to use?

4. X-Wing models are fairly light weight and tend to slide a bit - is it worth it using some kind of rubber paint? Plasti Dip is a name I've seen come up, has anyone tried it?]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6158633.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6158633.page GMT MDF and call it a day. If they'll be hanging off of table edges or otherwise forced to support their own weight, you'll need to make them significantly more robust. MDF is rather heavy, though, and suitably stiff pieces have to be quite thick - I'd keep the surface thin and use a wooden frame underneath to provide the necessary rigidity. Even insulation foam boards can be used to stiffen an MDF top (a very lightweight alternative), although the edges, especially, are prone to wear. Best to enclose it in a frame if going that route.

2. Can you or the store cut a 45 degree miter? If so, you can just pick up a length of simple molding while you're buying the MDF and build your own frame. An 8' length of simple crown molding (quarter round, or the like) only costs a few bucks (unfortunately, a 3' square board means you'd need two, with lots of scrap, per board) and is easy to tack on to the sides of a board that has been raised up on a thin frame or foam. For thicker boards (if, say, you framed it on 2x4s), look at baseboard molding - it'll have the height to cover the whole side, plus a small lip above, if desired.

3. Not much, if you don't make it one. Slathering the face in PVA glue, as so many people do when texturing land-based terrain boards, is pretty much guaranteed to cause serious warping. A coat or two of spray paint, however, shouldn't do much of anything, nor will general indoor storage. Delamination of the edges (due to wear, more than anything) can be a problem, if they're unprotected by a frame, in which case I'd suggest soaking them through with a few applications of PVA (while the board is clamped/weighed down, if you're worried about warping - I haven't had any issues, though) or giving them a coat of epoxy. Granted, none of this will likely be an issue if the MDF face is attached to a reasonably stiff frame, especially if the edges are covered.

4. Never tried it, nor have I handled X-Wing models to comment on whether I'd even consider it an issue. I will say, though, that I've seen quite a few boards made with glossy paper printouts glued down to MDF boards (some varnished, some left alone). If those are playable, I wouldn't be too worried about a painted surface. Also bear in mind that the models are on flight stands - a nudge that would shift a model on a slick board will simply topple it, instead, on one with grip. Not sure it would actually solve the problem.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6158931.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6158931.page GMT
They won't be freestanding. The tables we have are 70 cm wide or more, so 15 cm (6") overhang on each side at the most. I measured our 4'x6' boards today - they are 12 mm MDF with no kind of support and have been working for years (using the same tables), so right now I'm leaning towards just painting up some 9 or 12 mm MDF. Framing them ups the cost quite a bit, even considering 6 mm vs 12 mm boards.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6162327.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/558319/6162327.page GMT