Brothererekose wrote:
I've played 40k for 9 years now and I've found it a smart idea to cull the internet's collective wisdom on models that are new to me. Little hints and tricks to best put things together.

Like using rubber bands to hold the XV8 torso together until the solvent sets. Or giving in to carcinogens and using kicker with super glue on the old metal Hurricane Bolter array on LRCs. That sort of thing. I'm not a hoobyist at heart, but have learned much, so it's okay to answer my Qs like I'm a modeling nooB.


On to the riptide. At this stage, all pieces are still on the sprue, but I've leafed through the instructions. I've noted the 'remove tab for freer posing' parts on the limbs and will exploit that to pose it customarily.

1. Legs:
I've seen one dude's riptide snapped off at both ankles. So, I plan to pose my riptide with a deffkopta squished under the lead RH foot, but this will actually serve to provide better support of its weight, rather than have it snap at the ankle. The kopta's body will end up appearing to 'scrape' up the calf to take more weight.

How tough is it to get the LH leg's knee down in a kneeling position?

2. guns
How snug is the Ion & HBC fit? Can I get away without REMs (having done six XV8s I don't wish to do it again, if I can help it)? If not, though the model will look like a poser douche-bag, is there enough arm/should play to have him hold the main gun nearly upside down? Seriously.

Any other bugaboos?

 Mecha_buddha wrote:
I have built one of these and plan to buy a second soon. Here are my tips for the build:

Legs: the lower leg is hollow. cut a length of styrene rod to fit inside the lower leg, leave it open. next glue the ankle ball into the position you want. drill out the ankle ball so that you can ram a brass rod through the ankle and into the lower leg and it fists snuggly with glue inside the styrene rod.

Didn't do a kneeling position myself, but if you clip the guide pegs off it should be easy to do, since in the release WD they showed a kneeling pose.

Guns: Unless you glue it or use REM, the gun is not a snug fit, there is actually a little slop/wiggle on how the arm fits into the cavity of the gun. I used a 6mm diameter REM disc to hold the guns in place, one on each lower arm. that weird hole on the side of the arm holds a 6mm disc perfectly to also hold the shield. better for transport if it pops off.

Only other tip is leave the boosters off during painting. I just covered the small keyed holes on the torso and boosters for priming and painting, then glued them on at the end.