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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Camo Mishap"]]></title>
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				<title>Camo Mishap</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ So I ran into come complications while experimenting on camo patterns for a new <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(69);'>IG</span> army.  Here is what I did:<br /> <br /> 1) prime the model with citadel black (spray)<br /> 2) base with Tamiya (pink spray) x 3 coats [the paint wasn't taking as I would have liked, so I decided to do 3 light coats, as opposed to 1 heavy<br /> 3) blue poster tack for camo pattern, tightly applied <br /> 4) base with citadel white (spray) x 2 on exposed areas<br /> <br /> The problems I ran into as as follows:<br /> <br /> 1) the blue poster tack stuck in random places and also in predictable places.  As to random, it simply stuck to the paint in random places, and required abrasion to remove.  This caused minor damage to the pink coat, but not much.  As to predictable, the blue tack stuck on the borders where the citadel white was touching the pink. When I removed the blue tack, which took a lot of effort, it peeled away the paint all the way to the black primer, and sometimes to the plastic.<br /> <br /> 2) This problem is related to the first.  It is like the white citadel paint ate the coats under it, combined them, and made more like a very hard puddy that would peel off in sections. This was frustrating, and I am not sure how to avoid it.<br /> <br /> <br /> My current plan is to start over and do the following:<br /> <br /> 1) prime with citadel black (spray)<br /> 2) used poster tack, but not apply it as hard as previous<br /> 3) base with magenta - screamer pink - or purple (using air brush)<br /> 4) use further poster tack<br /> 5) base with some shade of turquoise - I haven't decided on color yet (using air brush)<br /> 6) wash some areas with nuln-oil. <br /> 7) paint treads and hinges and metal boarders with abaddon black.<br /> 8) dry brush certain areas with gold dry<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can avoid some of the problems I ran into?  My plan is to try airbrushing this time, as opposed to spray cans.  I also plan on using all citadel paints, as I feel they are a better quality and made specifically for what we do.  I also plan on letting the paint dry much longer (4 hours as opposed to 2), and I plan on putting the poster tack on without compressing it as much, as I think this made it harder to take off.  Any suggestions are really welcome. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 23 Apr 2014 06:51:27]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Nuln_Oil]]></author>
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				<title>Camo Mishap</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/7147a3ace753128c61080da2a8ef2acf.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591476/6755199.page"><b>Nuln_Oil wrote:</b></a><br/>Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can avoid some of the problems I ran into?  My plan is to try airbrushing this time, as opposed to spray cans.  I also plan on using all citadel paints, as I feel they are a better quality and made specifically for what we do.  I also plan on letting the paint dry much longer (4 hours as opposed to 2), and I plan on putting the poster tack on without compressing it as much, as I think this made it harder to take off.  Any suggestions are really welcome. </div></blockquote>Using an airbrush to make camouflage patterns will work much, much better than attempting to do it with only spray cans. I would also recommend using Silly Putty as opposed to poster tack for masking and always make sure every layer of paint is fully cured before applying any masking.<br /> <br /> <blockquote class="uncited"><div>I also plan on using all citadel paints</div></blockquote>There are other brands of paint out there that are just as good, if not better. It never hurts to have a wide range of paints at your disposal. I personally use a variety of paint from a wide range of manufacturers: Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Game Color, old Citadel, new Citadel, Reaper Master Series, Privateer Press Formula P3, Badger Minitaire, and Tamiya.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 23 Apr 2014 07:33:28]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ScootyPuffJunior]]></author>
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				<title>Camo Mishap</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I use blue painters tape rather than putty or tacky schmutz.  It peels off and sticks down easier with no extra residue and if you stick it to a piece of wood first you can slice it into all kinds of neato shapes and patterns which you can then stick on your model.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 23 Apr 2014 07:43:48]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dust]]></author>
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				<title>Camo Mishap</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Small question:  Are you waiting for the paint to be fully dry before putting it on?  I don't mean 20 minutes dry to the touch, but like 1-2 hours dry.<br /> <br /> I use blu-<span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> all the time and have never had it peel off paint.  if you are having some problem getting it off, try a rolling motion with a larger piece of blu-<span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> to pull it off]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 23 Apr 2014 17:08:33]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ optimusprime14]]></author>
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				<title>Camo Mishap</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591476/6756852.page"><b>optimusprime14 wrote:</b></a><br/>Small question:  Are you waiting for the paint to be fully dry before putting it on?  I don't mean 20 minutes dry to the touch, but like 1-2 hours dry.<br /> <br /> I use blu-<span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> all the time and have never had it peel off paint.  if you are having some problem getting it off, try a rolling motion with a larger piece of blu-<span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> to pull it off</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> I waited almost 2 hours in between layers.  I don't think ti was enough, though.  The next morning the paint was substantially harder and not as puddy-like.  It was still very easy to peel, though.  I am going to try <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> again, but also puddy.<br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/7b8c7a6809f8e5e6cc85e88fbefb82e9.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591476/6755296.page"><b>ScootyPuffJunior wrote:</b></a><br/><blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/7147a3ace753128c61080da2a8ef2acf.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591476/6755199.page"><b>Nuln_Oil wrote:</b></a><br/>Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can avoid some of the problems I ran into?  My plan is to try airbrushing this time, as opposed to spray cans.  I also plan on using all citadel paints, as I feel they are a better quality and made specifically for what we do.  I also plan on letting the paint dry much longer (4 hours as opposed to 2), and I plan on putting the poster tack on without compressing it as much, as I think this made it harder to take off.  Any suggestions are really welcome. </div></blockquote>Using an airbrush to make camouflage patterns will work much, much better than attempting to do it with only spray cans. I would also recommend using Silly Putty as opposed to poster tack for masking and always make sure every layer of paint is fully cured before applying any masking.<br /> <br /> <blockquote class="uncited"><div>I also plan on using all citadel paints</div></blockquote>There are other brands of paint out there that are just as good, if not better. It never hurts to have a wide range of paints at your disposal. I personally use a variety of paint from a wide range of manufacturers: Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Game Color, old Citadel, new Citadel, Reaper Master Series, Privateer Press Formula P3, Badger Minitaire, and Tamiya.</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> Thank you for the advice!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 23 Apr 2014 17:53:13]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Nuln_Oil]]></author>
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