<![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?"]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice? CL.

Picked up a bunch of 2000's 40k boxes unopened from a guy that had them for years. On the sprue was the "GW 1998" markings. I was pretty pumped until I found out why some of the boxes were so heavy! Most were a super light gray plastic, but one box was a mix of plastic with metal weapons(Space Wolves Long Fangs)! Ack! One box is pure metal (Techmarine with servitors). Another ACK!

As I have posted before I am petty new to all this, and my only foray into 40k models is the dark gray plastic, and recently one resin model!

So, a few questions regarding my newly acquired stuff....

1. I noticed the space marines do not have hands attached to weapons! I assume I am to clip the handles of the guns and glue them? Thats odd. More of an observation than a question I guess.

2. Why/What is the difference between the older light gray plastic vs. the new darker one? Anything I should know before priming and painting?

3. I trimmed, and believe I got rid of the horrible mold lines as best I could, and washed the metal pieces. Is there any other step or consideration I need to make before primer and paint the metal ones?

4. The only advice I have got regarding painting metal is to put on the paint thicker than usual. Not to thin it down as much. Is this true?

Thanks again for and advice!



If anyone is curious of the items I received . Battleforce Box (1 Rhino, 10 man Tac, 5 Assault, 3 bikes, and .... trees), Techmarine with 4 Servitors, Space Wolf Long Fangs, 5 man battle squad , Space Marine Commander.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9072991.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9072991.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
You might need to use some small files to clean them up, rather then just a hobby knife.

Look for the little strings of metal attached to the mini. They are the injection points, like you would find on a resin model. The generally snap right off. But it’s another step of the cleanup.

GW changed the way they did guns/hands a bit ago. Some of the older guns had their grips on them that you need to cut off to stick onto the fist (which should have a grip molded on). On the bright side, if you want to hang the gun off a belt/rack somewhere, it’s complete.

Plastic should be treated just the same as the new stuff. Same tools/glue.

]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073009.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073009.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
Vaxx wrote:


1. I noticed the space marines do not have hands attached to weapons! I assume I am to clip the handles of the guns and glue them? Thats odd. More of an observation than a question I guess.


Yep, the idea was you could model marines firing the weapons or have them slung if they were holding a knife or scanner or whatever.

2. Why/What is the difference between the older light gray plastic vs. the new darker one? Anything I should know before priming and painting?


None, plastic glue should work on both.

3. I trimmed, and believe I got rid of the horrible mold lines as best I could, and washed the metal pieces. Is there any other step or consideration I need to make before primer and paint the metal ones?


Just remember you'll need superglue to hold them to the plastic, you may want to get a pin vice and pin them as well.

4. The only advice I have got regarding painting metal is to put on the paint thicker than usual. Not to thin it down as much. Is this true?


I'm not really the one to ask.

If anyone is curious of the items I received . Battleforce Box (1 Rhino, 10 man Tac, 5 Assault, 3 bikes, and .... trees), Techmarine with 4 Servitors, Space Wolf Long Fangs, 5 man battle squad , Space Marine Commander.


Congrats! Hope you got a good price!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073030.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073030.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
Obviously you'll be using super glue to attach the plastic components to the metal (wherein it's advisable to lightly sand the contact points to make sure they get a good grab).

The older plastic components were separate arms to which you'd attach weapons. This was part of making things modular while minimizing cost. Plastic components are expensive to produce (even more so back then). Most marine items consisted of the same couple of arms and then separate sprues which had either bolters/knives or close combat weapons, etc.

Simply cut the weapons to fit (and sometimes you need to file down the top of the hand a bit so it all sits flush. The only issue I ever ran into with this was cutting the grip out of the chainsword. Sometimes the knuckelguard would break off if you clipped/cut it wrong.

You don't have to paint it any differently (you'll be priming it regardless).

The only downside to metal models (in my opinion) is the increased likelihood of chipping them during gameplay. That's relatively minor, but it's a consideration. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073270.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073270.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
It is interesting to see the older stuff vs newer models. Lots of changes have been made.

Appreciate the info!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073847.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073847.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
Vaxx wrote:
It is interesting to see the older stuff vs newer models. Lots of changes have been made.


Yup, the new-fangled stuff from the late '90s and early ‘00s is a bit of a change from the old minis. Still some nice looking models.

It’s all relative. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073859.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073859.page GMT 1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
You should wash all models before priming. Warm soapy water and a toothbrush. A lot of people piss and moan that this isn't necesary, but they are also quite often the folks that moan that their paint flakes off.

30 years experience tells me it don't hurt to clean 'em, but it quite often does not to.

Plastic models can pick up oils from the moulds.
Metal models can pick up talc or other mould release agents.
Wash, dry, and handle as little as possible until the varnish goes on.
Allow your primer to cure FULLY (especially important with the vallejo stuff you airbrush on), and especially important on metal models - the edges tend to be sharper and harder than plastic, and this makes it easy to rub paint off.
]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073873.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/710819/9073873.page GMT Re:1998 Metal/Plastic Model advice?
Remove any dags and flash [insert shoehorned Warrocket Ajax gag here] from the models first

Rince the models in water with liquid soap. This will remove traces of the chemcal placed on the model during the casting process which prevents it from being stuck in the mould

In some cases [space marine devestators] you can paint the model before assembling it if you want as angling brushes around weapons and 'bent' arms can be tricky sometimes

Use zap-a-gap superglue to assemble the model. When using superglue, make sure to do so in a well ventilated area and not in a room which has an electronic cooling or heating source as this will vent the fumes throughout the house

Some models can be quite top heavy. Once the glue is in place, make a cradle/rig or something for the model to be supported by
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