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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Vallejo Primer Help"]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[Latest messages posted in the thread "Vallejo Primer Help"]]></description>
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				<title>Vallejo Primer Help</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Hello, so i've been using a bottle of Vallejo Polyurethane Primer for the past couple months, and have had no issues... per say. I feel as if the primer is easily peeled off. I was working on my <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(412);'>DW</span> Chaplain for the December contest, and one of the spikes on the pack lost a bit of the paint and primer at the tip. I've been painting it on, how should the primer look and feel when it's done?<br /> Thanks,<br /> JATW]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, 8 Jan 2017 17:45:46]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ JustaerinAtTheWall]]></author>
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				<title>Vallejo Primer Help</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/3c835a6e3c6fdb7c272f9608a354ff07.jpg" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/713572/9123343.page"><b>JustaerinAtTheWall wrote:</b></a><br/>Hello, so i've been using a bottle of Vallejo Polyurethane Primer for the past couple months, and have had no issues... per say. I feel as if the primer is easily peeled off. I was working on my <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(412);'>DW</span> Chaplain for the December contest, and one of the spikes on the pack lost a bit of the paint and primer at the tip. I've been painting it on, how should the primer look and feel when it's done?<br /> Thanks,<br /> JATW</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> I pretty much do all my priming this way (in the airbrush) now. But I'm sure to give it at least a full day to cure, usually more. Sometimes I might add some other colors with the airbrush over it with less wait time but I'll never put a brush to it.  Also at least for me - I start with a super light dusting all around the model, then slowly build up until it's visible moving the model fairly fast so it doesn't stay in one spot long, then eventually I can let go a little thicker etc etc. Rattle can priming is certainly faster, but my painting-lair is so comfi and the weather sucks here so...<br /> <br /> This has worked well for me. I use corks and wall-<span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(167);'>tac</span> so as not to handle my models that much but regardless sometimes I'll keep touching a spot and the paint might come off a little, but the primer stays intact.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, 8 Jan 2017 19:15:39]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Gunzhard]]></author>
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				<title>Vallejo Primer Help</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I stopped using Vallejo primer in part because it's not very tough, I found it much weaker than rattle can primers (which I still use when I'm too lazy to airbrush the primer).<br /> <br /> I swapped to Gunze Mr Surfacer 1500 which is a lacquer based primer and thin it with Gunze Mr Color Levelling Thinner (which is a lacquer based thinner, but much gentler than the ones you might buy from a hardware store).<br /> <br /> Being a lacquer you need to make sure you have proper ventilation and/or a respirator. But it's a lot tougher than the Vallejo PU stuff.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, 8 Jan 2017 22:36:38]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ AllSeeingSkink]]></author>
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				<title>Vallejo Primer Help</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Vallejo primer can take a few days to cure fully, and even then it's not the toughest primer - I find it can feel a bit rubbery.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 9 Jan 2017 13:26:08]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ WaveyRaven]]></author>
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