http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net The problem is most models come in our friend the gritty looking WS&F material.
Anyone that had not done any "special" preparation tends to get some very "fuzzy" looking models when they paint.

The better advice I have received is to use embossing tools first to smooth-out the surface or compact it.


This is where is gets tricky, the material is highly porus, hopefully the embossing crushes most of those little holes closed.
Then you need to fill in all those remaining holes.
Some use the Krylon plastic paint.
I am tempted with the Future Floor Polish (which is an acrylic sealer of sorts).
Use "matt medium" which is just an acrylic medium or paint with no pigment.
A bit of watered down white glue may work as well.
Some came up with some fancy "Acetone vapor" treatment to slightly "melt" the surface.

What is a really good thing: no worries of having a surface to stick to.
The problem is keeping the darn thing sucking up whatever I put on like a sponge.

I have been staring at these little guys for a bit and none of them came with extra bits to practice on so I can listen to some of your experiences or pick a "victim" and experiment.
So for heaven's sake, have mercy on the poor thing and share your experiences or he gets it!.

I find what videos out there I see, they just gob on a ton of paint until it looks filled-in.
I have some tiny snow speed... (ahem) "Star Inspired Cold Racer Vehicles" in 1/285 scale so their detail would be a shame to fill in too much.
I am leaning toward the matt medium which is my own creative choice I have not seen listed.

Thanks all.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/716909/9186542.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/716909/9186542.page GMT https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/painting3dprintedsls
BUT it still seems to not address how to deal with the "porous" issue.

An interesting "how-to" is of an artist that makes figurines.
He suggests thoroughly washing in water to get the dust out and drying for many days.
https://i.materialise.com/blog/danny-van-ryswyks-dark-wonderland-master-artist-shares-how-he-hand-paints-polyamide-3d-prints/

Luckily, nylon is known to be terribly difficult to paint but because of the "tooth" of the 3D print that is not an issue since the paint encapsulates the plastic.
I read that a few people had zero issues just applying GW primer "like normal".

I think the way to go is probably the Krylon Fusion, since I usually prime black I will start with this:
Krylon Fusion for Plastic, Satin Black, 12 oz., Aerosol]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/716909/9190030.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/716909/9190030.page GMT