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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ How do the teqnical gem paint work on larger models? Are there any examples, and how do you work them?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 01:11:27]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Niiai]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have some limited experience with them.  I used the gloss blue over black for a chitin look on my zoat.  Specifically on this gun/gear.  Basically if you want to use a glaze + gloss coat, they are that in one paint.  Need to be thinned out a bit <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(71);'>IMHO</span>.<br /> <br /> <a href="https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/816865-Oldhammer%2C%20Tyranids%2C%20Zoat.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2016/7/30/816865_sm-Oldhammer%2C%20Tyranids%2C%20Zoat.jpeg" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(274);'>YMMV</span>. hopefully someone with more skill and more sober will chime in with some relevant advice.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 01:20:30]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Nevelon]]></author>
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				<title>Re:Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Here's a couple of pics of one of my Knights I did some work on the shoulders.  The flames are white with Pearl white accents, then light bluegrey with runefang highlights.  The pad is a very dark grey, and then I hit the whole thing with Green Gemstone paint.  Came out tinting the flames green and giving the whole pad a lacquered look on the dark grey.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 04:49:26]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Sauragnmon]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I use the green to paint the coils on all my plasma guns.  As long as you put a nice bright silver underneath (Stormhost Silver) it works very well for larger areas.  Put it on thick, don't thin it out.  It's very bright and glossy after it dries, and thinning it or putting it over any other paint besides bright silver totally defeats that]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 05:49:02]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Bi'ios]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Gem paints, like all clears, are much harder to get right on large surfaces (unless you have an airbrush handy). I haven't spent a lot of time with <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(50);'>GW</span> gems because I prefer Tamiya's clears, but the basic behaviour is the same, the only one that's a bit different is if you use enamel clears because they have a much slower drying time so they don't have the same problems acrylic clears do.<br /> <br /> On small surfaces it's much easier to get a smooth coat and any inconsistencies don't stand out. On big surfaces it's much trickier.<br /> <br /> My advice is use a nice large brush with soft bristles, as wide as you can go, try and load it with enough paint to do one whole panel in one hit to avoid having to go back and forth from your palette (any time the paint sits on the surface it's drying and partially dried paint is the enemy). Of course if you go too far and overload the brush that can also be hard to fix, so don't go too overboard.<br /> <br /> Think less about "brushing" the paint on and more about "mopping" it on.<br /> <br /> If it's really large you might consider doing 1 panel at a time. This is to avoid accidentally going over partially dried areas which will create tide marks.<br /> <br /> Another approach is almost the polar opposite, try and build it up gradually and hope the inconsistencies get hidden by the layers. Personally I haven't had much luck with this approach, but maybe someone who uses that method can chime in.<br /> <br /> If you do have an airbrush it's much easier, just build it up gradually and you should be fine. It's best to airbrush clears over a preshaded part.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 06:20:36]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ AllSeeingSkink]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I agree on silver Base.<br /> <br /> It pops nicely when you do that for best effect. <br /> Never used on a large large scale but I'd agree with basing silver, brightest metal you got. <br /> <br /> Lay it on thicker, it needs it for best effect.<br /> <br /> I've used all 3 <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(50);'>Gw</span> versions.<br /> Always give it a shake before you use it and be careful on varnishing etc. It seems to be a more delicate paint when dried than the other types. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 07:43:14]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ jhe90]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote><div><img src="https://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/ee0635b5b042371c386598202afc5e11.png" height="20" border="0">&nbsp;<a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/745141/9710194.page"><b>Nevelon wrote:</b></a><br/>I have some limited experience with them.  I used the gloss blue over black for a chitin look on my zoat.  Specifically on this gun/gear.  Basically if you want to use a glaze + gloss coat, they are that in one paint.  Need to be thinned out a bit <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(71);'>IMHO</span>.<br /> <br /> <a href="https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/816865-Oldhammer%2C%20Tyranids%2C%20Zoat.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2016/7/30/816865_sm-Oldhammer%2C%20Tyranids%2C%20Zoat.jpeg" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(274);'>YMMV</span>. hopefully someone with more skill and more sober will chime in with some relevant advice.</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> I can't really see the effect, sorry.<br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> <blockquote><div><a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/745141/9710394.page"><b>Sauragnmon wrote:</b></a><br/>Here's a couple of pics of one of my Knights I did some work on the shoulders.  The flames are white with Pearl white accents, then light bluegrey with runefang highlights.  The pad is a very dark grey, and then I hit the whole thing with Green Gemstone paint.  Came out tinting the flames green and giving the whole pad a lacquered look on the dark grey.<br /> <br /> </div></blockquote><br /> <br /> Hmmm... thanks. But I think it looks a bit odd. Perhaps that is just the camera? Do you like how it looks <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(281);'>IRL</span>?<br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> <blockquote><div><a href="/dakkaforum/posts/preList/745141/9710453.page"><b>AllSeeingSkink wrote:</b></a><br/>Gem paints, like all clears, are much harder to get right on large surfaces (unless you have an airbrush handy). I haven't spent a lot of time with <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(50);'>GW</span> gems because I prefer Tamiya's clears, but the basic behaviour is the same, the only one that's a bit different is if you use enamel clears because they have a much slower drying time so they don't have the same problems acrylic clears do.<br /> <br /> On small surfaces it's much easier to get a smooth coat and any inconsistencies don't stand out. On big surfaces it's much trickier.<br /> <br /> My advice is use a nice large brush with soft bristles, as wide as you can go, try and load it with enough paint to do one whole panel in one hit to avoid having to go back and forth from your palette (any time the paint sits on the surface it's drying and partially dried paint is the enemy). Of course if you go too far and overload the brush that can also be hard to fix, so don't go too overboard.<br /> <br /> Think less about "brushing" the paint on and more about "mopping" it on.<br /> <br /> If it's really large you might consider doing 1 panel at a time. This is to avoid accidentally going over partially dried areas which will create tide marks.<br /> <br /> Another approach is almost the polar opposite, try and build it up gradually and hope the inconsistencies get hidden by the layers. Personally I haven't had much luck with this approach, but maybe someone who uses that method can chime in.<br /> <br /> If you do have an airbrush it's much easier, just build it up gradually and you should be fine. It's best to airbrush clears over a preshaded part.</div></blockquote><br /> <br /> Ultromatly I am planning on painting 1 kitbashed Neuronthrope, and 3 kit bashed biovores. Perhaps an exoshrne. Probably some spore mines. I am picturing painting the model black and the scrapace red. The red part would be the one painted with gem.<br /> <br /> But I am talking rather big surfaces here. It sounds like there is no way to make it look good? If I atemt it I would asume I would need to put gold underneath it instead of silver?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 23 Nov 2017 19:42:56]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Niiai]]></author>
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				<title>Gem paint on lager models?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I love how it looks <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(281);'>IRL</span>, it's a little personalization on that specific knight of my small household - I've got three of them, and each are different in design to a degree.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 24 Nov 2017 05:32:08]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Sauragnmon]]></author>
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