http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/56.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net
- 1×8×8 - 6
- 1x6x6 - 2
- 2x4x8 - 8
- 4x4x8 - 2
- 1/2 plywood cut at 6'x4'
- 3/4 MDF cut at 38 1/8 × 69 (this might be slightly different depending on how square your table is)
- #9 3" wood screws - 1lb box
- #8 2" wood screws - 1lb box
- 3/8 speedbor wood bit (this should be about 8 inches long)
- 1/2 speedbor wood bit
- #10 countersink bit
- 3/8" 5 1/2" hex bolts - 4
- 3/8" washers - 4
- 3/8" nuts - 4

A few quick notes:

- Use the #9 screws on your 2x4 frames and legs.
- Use the #8 screws for anything going into a 1x8 and for your plywood top.
- A clamp helps tremendously because it can hold one side while you screw in another.
- Measure, measure again and then do it again after you cut. The .measurements listed are based on what my cuts ended up being yours might vary by some depending on wood and accuracy of cuts.
- Countersink every screw it will make the table look better in the end.
- Buy extra boards. Better to have them and need to return them later than mess up a cut and have to go back to the store.
- I completed step 3 then went to the store with my plywood and MDF measurements and had them cut it. Their standing wood sheet cutters at the big box stores is very accurate. Just make sure they verify measurements before you walk away from the store.

Step 1: Cut your 2x4 upper frame. This is going to be the 6x4 frame that your plywood will be attached to and will make up your playing surface. I recommend cutting 2 6ft sections and then using 2 2x4 to cut 4 45 inch pieces. This will make up your short sides and 2 braces to support the plywood.

Step 2: Cut your 2 4x4x8s into 4 legs. I cut mine at 32" inches. Typical dining table is 30" counters are typically 36". 32" is perfect for my gaming group who are all 6 ft or taller.

Step 3: Assemble the upper 6x4 frame using #9 wood screws. These have to be countersunk otherwise you cannot attach the 1×8 finish boards later. After that attached your 4x4x8 posts to each corner. First drill enough depth with the 1/2 bore to allow the bolt head to be countersunk. Then with your 3/8 speedbor drill through the rest of the 2x4 and through the 4x4. This will be where you insert a bolt washer and nut. Tighten down pretty tightbut remember that you can compress the wood if you tighten toomuch so once its nice and snug give it another turn and move on. I also added 2 #9 screws from each side here just for extra support.

Step 4: Attach your 1/2 plywood screwing in along all lengths and down the braces I the center. Start in one corner and put in one screw then go each subsequent corner and "force" the plywood to one up with the frame this will square the table. Once younhave a screw on each corner screw down the rest of the board. Doing this first will help your table square up and makes your other work easier.

Step 5: (if adding storage shelf): Cut and assemble your lower frame for your shelf. Measure from inside to inside of the legs on your short side and outside to outside of the legs on the long side. This will give you the dimensions for your bottom frame and MDF. I recommend adding this because it can help square your table. Flip the table over measure your height for your shelf. Mine is 4 1/2" from the floor. Screw in your frame then attach your MDF.

Step 6: Cut your 1x8x8s. This part will vary depending if you want to build the recessed sections and if you want to miter your corners. If your planning to build the recessed sections cut 2 1x8 to 6' and cut 2 1x6 to 6'. Attach these together at your desired height for your recessed section. I chose 4 inches. Once you have those attached you can then attach them 1x8 to your 2x4 frame. My playing surface sits 2" below the top edge of my 1x8 for a dice barrier and to prevent models from being accidentally knocked onto the floor. We use a game mat if you use foam then you will likely need a deeper drop to the plywood surface to allow for the difference in thickness.

Step 7: If adding recessed areas you need to cut your next 1x8 to 60"' (this should be the distance from shelf edge to shelf edge. If you are going to miter your outside corners make sure your inside miter is 60". Attach these boards to the shortt sides ensuring your inside miter lines up with the 1x6 that is attached to the other board. Cut your remaining 2 1x8 with a 72" inside miter. Attach these to other mitered 1x8s and screw in along the length.

That's all now fill your countersunk holes. File and sand stain or paint and your done!

If you want to add cup holders you can use the left over 1x6 scraps drill a 3" hole in the center using a hole saw and then screw them in from the outside. If you need you can attach a piece of 2x4 directly under the hole screwed to the bottom to allow the cup to sit higher depending in the height of your cups.

I will update with more pictures once more finish work has been done if anyone is interested in seeing more progress pictures




Automatically Appended Next Post:
All my pictures ended up sideways for some reason I'll fix them later. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9871915.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9871915.page GMT
One suggestion: If you round off the outer edge of the table, it will be a lot more comfortable to lean on. I don't know if you have a router, though a robust sanding will probably do the trick as well.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9871933.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9871933.page GMT
Started doing a little sanding as well.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9872059.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/752532/9872059.page GMT