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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Constructive criticism and rust questions"]]></title>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I am still a beginner painter and this is my first big model/vehicle that I have attempted. It is also my first real work with dry brushing, and weathering. I think the model it self has turned out to where I am happy with it personally. I still have detail work to do and I am going to give it a nuln oil bath to dumb down the brightness/shiny a bit. My question is I also have some rust effect paint that I will be giving a light dry brush to and getting it closer to what I have in mind. What I really need advice on is do I do nuln oil first then dry brush over that with the rust paint or do I do my dry brushing first and then finish it off with the nuln oil? <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 6 Nov 2019 15:54:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Rogohobo]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I would wash last. Have tried it the other way and found the scratches I added with silver were too bright so I ended up doing a second wash.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 6 Nov 2019 17:56:37]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jamie Shred]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ It depends. How bright do you want your rust? Rust generally isn't an even shade. I would wash first, then apply your rust. <br /> However, drybrushing rust seems odd to me. Rust doesn't sit on upper raised surfaces and on top of paint, it builds in recesses and around rivets and bolts and under paint or in scratches. So I would make a rust coloured wash and apply this to relevant areas. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 6 Nov 2019 21:12:40]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ queen_annes_revenge]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Rust does sit on raised patches where protective paint has been worn away by use. It grows in recesses where water can pool and eat away at the surface, or where different metals join and cathodic corrosion occurs.<br /> <br /> <br /> <span style="font-size: 9px; line-height: normal;">Automatically Appended Next Post:</span><br /> I would recommend sponging rather than dry brushing though.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 6 Nov 2019 21:47:56]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Flinty]]></author>
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				<title>Re:Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I really appreciate you guys taking time to answer my question. After getting home and slapping nuln oil on the model I decided not to do the rust after all. I was able to finish the model beyond what I thought I was capable of. I learned tons of new tricks and techniques ie the binoculars, the plasma glow, and the computer screen were all new things to me. I have a trukk to paint that I want to actually look rusty nasty. I am going to try the tips you guys gave me on it and try to hit the rivets and bolts real good to see if I can get it to turn out good.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 03:57:48]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Rogohobo]]></author>
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				<title>Re:Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(72);'>IMO</span>, you did things slightly out of order.<br /> <br /> When I paint rusted metal, I put down the rust layer first and then add the shiny non-rusted metal.<br /> <br /> This is because if you have a large rusty object, like an ork trukk, the areas of exposed metal will be mostly rusty while the only non-rusted metal will be areas that get wear. Wear spots might be bullet impacts, joints, or just an area where the grots are resting their arms.<br /> <br /> So for example, if I was painting the door you showed. I would have put down the blue paint layer first. then added rusty patches. Then washed the entire thing. Then finally I would have dry brushed the metal onto the rusted areas, as well as maybe some other bits of the paint to give a chipped feeling. This gives a more natural rusted look I feel. because if you have an old vehicle with the paint flaking, the rust is going to be concentrated around the edges of the exposed metal. The more central areas will have more non-rusted metal as rust tends to accumulate in crevices. While areas that receive more wear will have less visible rust because it gets rubbed off as it forms. The cracks are where it accumulates.<br /> <br /> For example, when I was painting my <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(147);'>WHFB</span> Ogres and I had them all have these nasty rusty blades. The first color on the blades and armor was rust colors. Then I dry brushed metal over it so the edges and any nicks and chips were shiny where the rust had been worn off.<br /> <br /> Another way to make rust convincing is the vary the color. It can be between a dull brown to a more orangy brown. Give your rust a very very light drybrush with orange to make it really pop and seem like its very severe rust. You can also have rust streaks running down from joints, rivets, etc... where it looks like water has washed some rust out of the crevices and left a nasty stain. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 07:48:49]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Grey Templar]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Thank you for that Grey Templar. When I start my trukk I was going to do it completely opposite, but what you said makes perfect sense.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 10:45:04]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Rogohobo]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Try watching some you tube videos on weathering model tanks. Panzermiester is a good place to start. <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 14:26:47]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dynas]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I basically followed Grey Templars approach here<br /> <br /> <a href="https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/953090-Necromunda%2C%20Terrain.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow"><img src="https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2018/6/6/953090_sm-Necromunda%2C%20Terrain.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> I dont know how to do the lovely grimy streaking effect, but I think it gets the rusty patch idea across.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 18:44:52]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Flinty]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Streaks are best done using oil paints or specific enamel streaking fluids.<br /> <br /> You should also consider trying some panel shading techniques to give those vehicles depth and make the yellow less in your face. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 7 Nov 2019 21:14:30]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ queen_annes_revenge]]></author>
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				<title>Constructive criticism and rust questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Everyone's advice on where to put the rust is spot on. For application, I'd suggest experimenting with blotting it on with a blown out brush or ragged sponge to get some blotchy organic shapes rather than dry brushing it on. On a small model having some high contrast edges to your rust patches can work well, and dry brushing often looks grubby and indistinct.  I think the most bang-for-your-buck techniques after that are the silver edge highlights and the pools and drips of Agrax in recesses and on bolts and hatches. In terms of order, I go base colors, orange and brown rust patches, Agrax, silver edge highlights.<br /> <br /> Great progress pics, keep them coming!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 8 Nov 2019 18:55:08]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ MacPhail]]></author>
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