http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net
Does anyone have any first-hand advise on brush-on primers vs. others? Everything I have turned up on Youtube has people saying that Vallejo brush on Surface Primer is the best for durability on Bones, but all I could find locally was the Brush-On Primer made by Army Painter. Has anyone used it with success? ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667607.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667607.page GMT As long as the primer is non-reactive, it should be fine, regardless of brand. Try it on a small area on the base, or bottom of the feet just to make sure.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667619.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667619.page GMT
But if anyone can steer me in a better direction, I welcome the info.

]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667668.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667668.page GMT I think it has less to do with the primer, and more to do with what they’re made of.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667746.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667746.page GMT
Frankly I have a couple of Bones Black models, and so far THAT material is better in every possible way (pretty close to HIPS plastic, or at least Restic) but I still wouldn't trust it at all without a primer underneath, after 25 years of painting metals and plastics I just don't trust it.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667762.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10667762.page GMT
The dark German grey, dark red, and oche went on fine but the oche didn't cover great on the first coat. You don't always need perfect coverage with primer so I started putting Averland Sunset over it and it came out okay. The dark grey had the best coverage, no bubbles, and paint sticks to the surface okay but that'll be less helpful for lighter colors.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668040.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668040.page GMT
When the Surface Primer comes, I will also try the additional Bones pre-primer step of washing the models first in 91% Iso Alchohol as several videos have suggested. I always wash my models in Dish Detergent or Simple Green, but have heard that Alcohol is a good second wash step for bare Bones, with some people even saying it's like it almost "dries" out the topmost layer of the material and helps brush-on Primer adhere better.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668140.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668140.page GMT FW resin. Hell I tried to strip some minis I primed with it so I could respray them white for contrast paints and I had to soak them in 91% alcohol to get the bloody primer off.

Dunno what your weather patterns are like but in the winter it's too cold in VA where I am to spray (goes on too wet) and it's waaaaay too humid to reliably prime in the summer so I started brushing on Vallejo. It is really freaking boring doing a whole army though, that's for sure!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668276.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668276.page GMT
I'll have to see if brush-on will be the thing for me on anything other than Bones (though even that makes Bones even a possibility for models, so there's that). I'm still a stickler for spray primers on metals and HIPS, even if I have to do it in the basement and give it 48+hrs to cure (and that's even with a dehumidifier set to 45%). But if it works....maybe it can change things. Lately I am playing skirmish games, so the lack of speed priming is not to crazy a downside.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668338.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/783718/10668338.page GMT