http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net So, I got that idea: How about I take some properly sculpted heads and/or torsos from other models, slice them in thin pieces and glue them back together with a slight, but visible twist, to show how they have been distorted.

Now, the problem is, those cuts have to go very clean and straight even through thick parts of the mini, ideally even at a controlled angle for some weird spiralling effects, when glueing them back together. Also, there shouldn't be much material wasted on every cut.
I would be willing to drop some extra dollars on specialized gear to do those cuts, but I am not even sure what tools to look for. Kind of a small and very fine powersaw, I guess, with some extra fixatures to hold the models in place while cutting?
Also, if I want to be able to chose from a wide variety of original bits, I should ideally.be able to cut resin, plastic and soft metal.

Does anyone even understand, what I am rambling about, and have an idea, what I should be looking for in terms of tools? I own a dremel, but I don't think, there are big enough sawblades on the market to cut through a mini in one cut, and the idea of cutting around a thicker part to hope the cuts meet properly in the centre scares me a bit. Also, my freehand cuts with the dremels are always a bit lacking in precision.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792212.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792212.page GMT There is the Cut - Saw (Trennscheibe) with a cut size of about 1mm
The Scroll Saw (Dekupiersäge) down to 0.24mm
The Bandsaw (Bandsäge) down to 0.4mm
The Circular saw (Kreissäge) down to 0.5mm.

So from the thickness of the "blade" the Scroll Saw seems to be the most suited. But whether it will still cut your model with the needed quality, I can't say.

There might be special variants for dentists or jewellers, which might allow finer work. Check with specialist shops.

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Be aware, generally when cutting through plastic you lose twice the width of the saw blade to the cut. This is a rough estimate but I do a ton of cutting on plastics and that is my findings. Be aware, saws with serrated teeth actually have those teeth angled out from the blade in an alternating pattern, thus the extra width when cutting. It isn't a problem for you, just keep in mind, and maybe limit your cuts to being 1/2 inch apart at most (so a model gets cut into say 5-6 pieces?)

I think your greatest challenge is holding the mini precisely enough while cutting. A vice with soft rubber or foam on the jaws to protect the model can work, but most saw blades will try to twist slightly as you make a longer cut, or even the miniature in the vice can move incrementally, giving you a cut that deviates. Cutting by hand without a jig in place and getting a perfect even 90 degree to the axis cut all the way through is extremely rare. However, some deviation can be to your advantage given the warped nature you want (see my suggestion below).

For your warped twist (I like this idea)
I would actually suggest you plan your project so that say when cutting a torso, that when placing the two halves (or parts whatever) back together, you set them in a spiral as you said (maybe a few degrees off) and use a 1/16th plasticard piece as a spacer (or larger to gain more space to work in), and then fill the gap with greenstuff (or equivalent) and sculpt the details back together in a twisting motion. Yeah, it would take patience and some greenstuff skill, but it seems the best way to get your warped twist.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792951.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792951.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792970.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/788171/10792970.page GMT