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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Shading and highlighting on primer "]]></title>
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				<title>Shading and highlighting on primer </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I am making a dark angels detachment.<br /> I bought the corresponding primer for the power armor.<br /> It is angel green primer from army painter.<br /> <br /> My question is.<br /> Am I okay to prime a model ( or several ) and then go straight into highlights and shading? Or am I missing something that is critical or taboo ?<br /> Are their any do's and dont's to this?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 29 Mar 2021 17:49:15]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ vox grenadier]]></author>
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				<title>Shading and highlighting on primer </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ You can go directly from primer to highlighting / shading, but most experienced painters will recommend not to do so.<br /> <br /> The main reason being a rattlecan paint colour and finish will not 100% match a painted layer (no matter what it says on the can), so attempting to fix any mistakes later on can leave obvious patches.  The easy workaround for that is to slap on a thin layer of brushed paint over the coloured primer.  Coloured primer is still very valuable as it will save you a lot of time vs. working up to <span class="glossaryitem" onmouseover='gp(25);'>DA</span> green from a white or black instead.  <br /> <br /> It'll take an extra couple of minutes per model, but it will prevent headaches later on down the road.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 29 Mar 2021 17:53:22]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Fire_Forever]]></author>
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				<title>Re:Shading and highlighting on primer </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Thank you this answers everything ☺️]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 29 Mar 2021 17:56:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ vox grenadier]]></author>
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				<title>Shading and highlighting on primer </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I find when priming with a rattlecan that coverage is never 100% even.  So rather then keeping on coats of spray until every nook and cranny is covered (and maybe ending up with it thick in places) I give it a good, but not overzealous spray, and make sure I have a solid base coat on with a brush.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, 29 Mar 2021 20:11:52]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Nevelon]]></author>
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				<title>Shading and highlighting on primer </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ The Army Painter Rattlecans and Pots do a pretty good job of colour matching, it's always going to be a struggle to get an EXACT match but they come very close with most.<br /> <br /> Especially with Dark Angels my approach would be to get an all over black undercoat, then any missed areas from the green will most likely be in the deepest recesses giving an element of zenithal shading.<br /> <br /> From here I'd do a quick patch test on one of the models to check how well the pot and can match, assuming you're happy with it matching then don't worry too much about re-coating.<br /> <br /> As you're already planning for a fair amount of rattle can work, my next step would be a light coat of gloss varnish before shading it with inks/washes as this will help them to get and stay in the recesses giving you sharper lines between panels.<br /> <br /> From here highlight in your preferred way, for a good "tabletop standard" I'd go for one subtle highlight followed by a sharper edge highlight on the upper surfaces.<br /> <br /> Rik]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 30 Mar 2021 11:29:44]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Rik Lightstar]]></author>
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