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Day1:

This day was mostly spent working on previously built models that had tons of sprue cuts and mold lines still left on the models. This took the first day completely as there were a lot of hard areas to get into. Once this process was done I researched the type of terrain my client wanted and found some creative ways to accomplish a cracked earth lava base. This is when I found MK Diorama Light & Dry Crackle Effects basing paste. This stuff is pretty amazing as it cracks over a surface as it dries.

Having ordered this product from https://www.amazon.com/AKI-Diorama-Effects-Light-Crackle/dp/B06W2GX7BD/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ak+Crackle+effect&qid=1623331739&sr=8-1 (that is the current link for the product for prime members) I decided to research how to use the product to the best effect and then have a nice practice round with one of my own bases.

I also use an airbrush for my base Applications in this project. https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=asc_df_B002W84GTO?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80195681205829&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583795260267699&psc=1 This airbrush is easy to use, easy to clean, and has a nice variety of needles you can use to complete any job.

Day 2: Time to have fun testing out products and getting some bases done

Step 1 rime black Solid color to prime in, you can prime whatever you wish though. https://www.jerrysartarama.com/montana-gold-artist-spray-paint Is the paint I used. Comes out smooth and dries nicely.

Step 2: Base white (any pure white will do), this will be diluted 1:1 with water as you want nice and thin layers. This will take multiple layers as you want a nice bright white.

Step 3: Yellow (Yriel yellow) you will also be diluting this color 1:1 with water and you want to leave the smallest layer of white in the center (you can choose other locations at random to leave white I just chose the middle to keep it simple and uniform). You will also need around 2 layers for this applicaiton

Step 4: Orange (Troll Slayer) Dilute 1:1 with water again and this time you want to leave some yellow (you choose how much yellow you want showing, looking at lava pics there isn't much lava that has yellow or white when it is hitting the surface). Concentrate more on the edges so we can have a nice layer for our final step. 2 layers

Step 5: Red (Wazdakka) Dilute a little more than 1:1 as this paint is a little thicker then the others (might have just been my pot but try to keep the same consistency as the other paints we used in previous steps). You want to concentrate this more on the edges if possible, spill over is not something to worry about as lava folds and cools it will just add to the effect we are going for anyways.


Step 6: PVA glue https://www.jerrysartarama.com/lineco-neutral-ph-adhesive you want to put this glue on relatively thick as it will help the next step crack even more! Remember to play with this product before going to your actual project as you want to get the consistency you need for your project and taste LET THE PVA COMPLETELY DRY! Very important


Step 7: Time to add our Crackle Effect!!!! I found that with this stuff the more the better! Make sure you do not let the edges thin out as when it dries it will pull from the edges first and it will not allow the center of your base to crack effectively.


Step 8: Patience Let your bases dry over night or if you are doing this project during the day let it sit for about 4-6 hours. You can use a heat gun if you have it or a blow dryer (I found that it cracked in ways I didn't like so I just let it air dry overnight)



Bigger Base to showcase


Step 9 (yeah there are this many steps in just making a base ) Now we are ready to paint this sucker! You will need any black paint and Incubi Darkness mixed together with water 1:1:1. Use 2-4 very thin layers and be sure to be super carful here as you do not want to get too much paint on your lava (it is protected with Glue so if you quickly clean your brush and pick up that paint with a wet brush you should be okay). Follow these steps and you should have something like this


And that's where I will be leaving it for today. Thanks for reading More to come!!!!



*********UPDATE 6/15/2021*********

Zenithal Highlights are added during the basing process, this is to create dark and light areas of the model. Makes it easier for transition with thinner colors as well.
For the armor I used P3 Brass Balls https://gameheadquarters.com/p3-paint-brass-balls.html for all the armor pcs watered down 4:1 and painted on thinly with a synthetic brush (do not use natural haired brushes with metallics as you will bend the hairs)
Shoulder pads and Shin/elbow guards, helmet, top of Back pack I based in P3 Pig Iron https://www.amazon.com/Privateer-Press-Formula-P3-Paint/dp/B000VGGETO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=P3+paints+Pig+iron&qid=1623791508&sr=8-1
Pants were based in Citadel Wazdakka https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Layer-Wazdakka/dp/B007RSGNIG/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Wazdakka+red&qid=1623791624&sr=8-2
Boots based in Black (any black will do)
Tube for backpack going into the weapon was based in vallejo model air blue https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ71004-Blue-Paint-17ml/dp/B002ZIZUPU/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=vallejo+model+air+blue&qid=1623791750&sr=8-2
Left eye was Wazdakka
Right eye Model air Blue
Weapon was done in Pig iron and Brass balls

I then washed the armor in Agrax Earthshade (watered down slightly to stop pooling as much) https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Paint-Shade-Agrax-Earthshade/dp/B0189BKI7G/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Agrax+Earthshade&qid=1623791836&sr=8-1 making sure to get any pools soaked up with my brush, you don't want to leave any extra on the model.
I washed the weapon, helmet, shin/elbow pads, top of backpack, and all red in Nuln Oil https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Paint-Shade-Nuln-Gloss/dp/B01H7JECW8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Nuln+oil&qid=1623791947&sr=8-3

I then waited to dry, roughly about 2 hours (make sure fully dry)

I then highlighted the armor, elbow/shin pads, pack, wrist guards with P3 Quick Silver, and the red in a 1:1 mix of wazdakka and Troll Slayer orange https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Layer-Slayer/dp/B007RSOR7K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=trollslayer+orange&qid=1623792096&sr=8-1

The backpack and tube I wanted to have a blue and white glow, so I took Citadel White Scarhttps://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Paint-Layer-White-Scar/dp/B007RS48YC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=white+scar+paint&qid=1623792215&sr=8-2 mixed with Liqutex acrylic ink Titanium White https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Acrylic-Titanium-White/dp/B002644I1U/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Liquitex+titanium+white+ink&qid=1623792247&sr=8-2 and used my airbrush until i was happy with the result, going back and forth between the white mix and Model air blue.
The ground was based in black







Just wanted to show all 15 Thunderers in a picture



**********************UPDATED AS OF 7/6/2021******************************* sorry for the delay but I do have a broken back and am preparing for surgery. This is very painful until I can get my surgical fix

On to the Ironclad!!!!!!

You will need to follow all basing steps above.

Prime black (metallic paint shows up better on darker color primers)




All brass areas are P3 Brass balls
All red areas are P3 Skorne Red
All Silver areas are Leadbelcher from GW https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/searchResults?_dyncharset=UTF-8&_dynSessConf=-4192164078969007975&qty=&sorting=&view=&Ntt=ledbelcher

I started off by basing all the brass areas with my Airbrush in Brass Balls. This is a small portion of the hull of the craft so I was able to be a bit more sloppy with the process than any other color I worked with during this process.
Then onto the Skorne Red. I based Below the Brass balls up to the next Line which is where I left black.



The OSL was done on all the pipes or tubes I felt that had some sort of power flowing to them or I thought looked cool

The paints used were Vallejo Uniform Green and the glow was produced with Yriel Yellow from Gw with my airbrush. did this as a slow build up as you have to thin yellow paint considerably. Give this about 3-4 coats of very very thin paint











]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145048.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145048.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145396.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145396.page GMT
The crackle is great! I love how its textured as apposed to the flat smooth look you get from GWs crackle paint. The lava looks great and pops well. I am excited to see where the army goes from here!

Its great to see the day to day progression, Keep the updates coming! and thanks for your hard work.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145574.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145574.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145583.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11145583.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11147278.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11147278.page GMT ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11150302.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11150302.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11150752.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11150752.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11151063.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11151063.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11165961.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11165961.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167171.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167171.page GMT
For new readers, they can follow the links to your progress. For older readers, they can hit the "see unread" button to immediately jump to your latest update, rather than having to scroll back up and then figure out which bits they've already seen. I know that's one reason I haven't engaged as much recently, is I honestly can't remember which bits are actually new, because when I click "see new post" all I see is the words "UPDATED".

Plus, new threads tend to get less engagement at first. Your work is good enough that it should pick up quickly once people see it. You can also try posing questions about specific feedback you want with the pictures, stuff like "I'm still learning how to use XYZ technique, do you guys think it's working?"]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167614.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167614.page GMT

I am getting a black box so i can take better pictures, the models look a ton better than the quality of pics ive been able to take for sure. Thanks for the feedback!!


Also, if anyone has any tips on taking better pictures with a phone please let me know, i use a google pixle 3 XL]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167659.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11167659.page GMT http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11168311.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/798919/11168311.page GMT