<![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "Liquid Green Stuff"]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net Liquid Green Stuff
I was just wondering if the stuff is any good? Is it worth picking up, does it work well for filling seams? I imagine larger gaps are an issue? How well does it adhere?

Are there any general impressions one way or the other?

Thanks!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760931.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760931.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
It's not much in way of a helpful opinion, by it's my 2 cents]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760947.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760947.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760964.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6760964.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6761715.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6761715.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff GS.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6761866.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6761866.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
for small cracks, I use superglue and sand it down. otherwise, I use real green stuff. the liquid stuff just never gets the job done for me.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762056.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762056.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
Oadie recommended Vallejo Plastic Putty and I will second that. It is my go-to small gap filler on most models.

The other thing that works really well is Milliput mixed with water. It is a two-part epoxy like green stuff but dries much harder and sands really well. I use it to fill large gaps on models. It isn't flexible like green stuff and gives nice, crisp detail but is a littler harder to sculpt with. It can be mixed with green stuff to get the best of both their properties.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762078.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762078.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
Back to Vallejo plastic putty for me... I knew I shouldn't have cheated on you with that filthy whore GW!]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762283.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762283.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff FoW helicopters. It does shrink but I put it on in globs and sand down the extra for a nice clean finish. Also use it to fill in huge miscasts on resin, where normal green stuff would work I found it easy just to use the liquid since it was already opened in front of me. Applied the same as for the gaps, just fill the miscast full of it and sand it down. After priming and painting you don't even notice there was a problem with the model.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762296.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762296.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff LGS sucks IMO. It shrinks, so you have to do multiple applications to fill a gap. You can't really clean it up while applying it, so you have to clean it up with sandpaper and such afterwards.

It's easy to apply but a pain to clean up and won't properly fill even small gaps. Because it's easy to apply you can deceive yourself in to thinking it's good, until you realise that in total it's faster to just mix some 2 part greenstuff (or whatever other non-shrinking and mouldable putty you might have on hand) and using a spatula to fill the gap.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762350.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6762350.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763178.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763178.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
I haven;t tried Vallejo but Liquitex and Golden will be better value for money: I got 250ml for £9.50 vs GW LGS 12ml for £2.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763211.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763211.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763252.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763252.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.
It sounds like you want actual casting resin.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763259.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763259.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
Vallejo liquid putty, which comes in a white tube with blue lettering, is much better; has a narrow nozzle so you can apply it in the right location. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763267.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763267.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff I use it in conjunction with other stuff to give a nice clean finish.
It's not really a filler, more of a final skim layer.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763283.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763283.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff LGS, they used it on vehicles to make them nurgley. Just slop it on and it can give a nice disgusting nurgley texture.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763336.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763336.page GMT Re:Liquid Green Stuff
You are right about anything larger than tiny gaps being an issue, as it does run a lot. Leave a little out and it does harden up a bit though, making this less of an issue. ]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763339.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6763339.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.
It sounds like you want actual casting resin.


can I put actual casting resin in oyumaru?]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767593.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767593.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/mr-surfacer-500-40ml/GSI00001285/product.php?kw=surfacer

Best liquid gap filler I have ever used.

It is a lacquer though, so some additional issues to deal with. It dries in minutes, and although it shrinks it isnt too bad. Because it dries so fast, you can apply several coats if needed for wide gaps.

Once dried, some lacquer thinner on a Qtip smooths it out well enough without even needing to sand. It does sand very well though if you want to.

For the regular pinhole issues common for resin, Mr Surfacer 1000 is great, and it is still fine enough to airbrush. Lacquer though, which will put a lot of people off, but worth the hassles IMO.

The downside is they have a hard time keeping up with the demand. I normally try to keep 2 bottles of each on hand at all times so I never run out.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767743.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767743.page GMT Re:Liquid Green Stuff http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767757.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6767757.page GMT Liquid Green Stuff
Solar Shock wrote:
AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.
It sounds like you want actual casting resin.


can I put actual casting resin in oyumaru?
I've never used oyumaru specifically, but I imagine it would, there's a couple of articles I found with googling that used casting resins with oyumaru.]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6768679.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6768679.page GMT Re:Liquid Green Stuff
 KelseyC wrote:
By the time mine got to me when I ordered it it had hardened up and wasn't liquid at all.


Mine was too. Still very workable but hardly liquid. Anyway to fix?]]> http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6768716.page http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/preList/591760/6768716.page GMT