Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

First of all, I am sorry because I am sure that there are 1.5 billion threads that talk about this already, but the search function is currently broken.

I was just wondering if the stuff is any good? Is it worth picking up, does it work well for filling seams? I imagine larger gaps are an issue? How well does it adhere?

Are there any general impressions one way or the other?

Thanks!

I have some, and have used it once or twice. I'm not blown away by it, if i'm honest. It doesn't fill medium to large gaps very well, but it is easy to make totally smooth.

It's not much in way of a helpful opinion, by it's my 2 cents

It has a high water content, thus shrinks a lot... exposing what you just covered up. So... not so good in my opinion.

It is good for filling cracks and gaps but not for building up or sculpting in any way. It is acrylic based so it does shrink and you will need to be careful sanding it. Still, I use it often to cover joins that are noticeable but too small to mix actual green stuff for.

I do the same with Vallejo's Plastic Putty. Not the easiest thing to work with and takes quite a while to cure sufficiently to allow for sanding (just peels off if you rush), but I still use it for smaller gaps, when I can't be bothered to mix up GS.

I've never had good experiences with it. I've tried it out to fill in imperfections on finecast models (what it was designed for) as well as to fill in small gaps on plastic and metal models. it shrinks quite a bit, so you end up having to do several applications. I've also never managed to get a smooth surface with it.

for small cracks, I use superglue and sand it down. otherwise, I use real green stuff. the liquid stuff just never gets the job done for me.

I will echo many of the above comments; my experience with it has been less than stellar and there are other products out there that are much better.

Oadie recommended Vallejo Plastic Putty and I will second that. It is my go-to small gap filler on most models.

The other thing that works really well is Milliput mixed with water. It is a two-part epoxy like green stuff but dries much harder and sands really well. I use it to fill large gaps on models. It isn't flexible like green stuff and gives nice, crisp detail but is a littler harder to sculpt with. It can be mixed with green stuff to get the best of both their properties.

I recently tried liquid greenstuff for the first time and the shrinkage was really annoying, to the point where small seams filled with it would need filling repeatedly. Ended up building a thick layer over what I was filling in which helped and then shaving the excess off with my knife.

Back to Vallejo plastic putty for me... I knew I shouldn't have cheated on you with that filthy whore GW!

I use it all the time to fill in gaps and cracks. In resent memory used about a bottle of it on my FoW helicopters. It does shrink but I put it on in globs and sand down the extra for a nice clean finish. Also use it to fill in huge miscasts on resin, where normal green stuff would work I found it easy just to use the liquid since it was already opened in front of me. Applied the same as for the gaps, just fill the miscast full of it and sand it down. After priming and painting you don't even notice there was a problem with the model.

LGS sucks IMO. It shrinks, so you have to do multiple applications to fill a gap. You can't really clean it up while applying it, so you have to clean it up with sandpaper and such afterwards.

It's easy to apply but a pain to clean up and won't properly fill even small gaps. Because it's easy to apply you can deceive yourself in to thinking it's good, until you realise that in total it's faster to just mix some 2 part greenstuff (or whatever other non-shrinking and mouldable putty you might have on hand) and using a spatula to fill the gap.

A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.

I did a test and found that Liquitex's "Modelling Paste" is far superior. Liquid Green Stuff shrinks as AllSeeingSkink said. The Modelling paste does not. Further Liquid green stuff is easily scratched off by the fingernail (unless it wasn't fully dry after a day) but Liquitex was rock hard. I know Golden have a modelling paste as well which is probably the same as Liquitex.

I haven;t tried Vallejo but Liquitex and Golden will be better value for money: I got 250ml for £9.50 vs GW LGS 12ml for £2.

I have only used it for very tiny, out of the way, hard to get to spots that may be noticable if they're not filled.

Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.

It sounds like you want actual casting resin.

I've found liqiod green stuff a bit of a pain. It never seems to last, either.

Vallejo liquid putty, which comes in a white tube with blue lettering, is much better; has a narrow nozzle so you can apply it in the right location.

I've had quite a bit of success with it.
I use it in conjunction with other stuff to give a nice clean finish.
It's not really a filler, more of a final skim layer.

Actually the one cool thing I've seen someone do with LGS, they used it on vehicles to make them nurgley. Just slop it on and it can give a nice disgusting nurgley texture.

Best use I found for it was filling air holes and minor gluing points.

You are right about anything larger than tiny gaps being an issue, as it does run a lot. Leave a little out and it does harden up a bit though, making this less of an issue.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.

It sounds like you want actual casting resin.

can I put actual casting resin in oyumaru?

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/mr-surfacer-500-40ml/GSI00001285/product.php?kw=surfacer

Best liquid gap filler I have ever used.

It is a lacquer though, so some additional issues to deal with. It dries in minutes, and although it shrinks it isnt too bad. Because it dries so fast, you can apply several coats if needed for wide gaps.

Once dried, some lacquer thinner on a Qtip smooths it out well enough without even needing to sand. It does sand very well though if you want to.

For the regular pinhole issues common for resin, Mr Surfacer 1000 is great, and it is still fine enough to airbrush. Lacquer though, which will put a lot of people off, but worth the hassles IMO.

The downside is they have a hard time keeping up with the demand. I normally try to keep 2 bottles of each on hand at all times so I never run out.

By the time mine got to me when I ordered it it had hardened up and wasn't liquid at all.

Solar Shock wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

Solar Shock wrote:
A good use I have found for it: - if not what it was typically designed for

When making a oyumaru mold, pressing GS into it can be a pain, as any trapped air will cause bubbles. So on a detailed piece this can leave a few places missing detail.

So what i do is: I put LGS into the mold first, paint it in, this allows the details to be fully filled, as the trapped air can escape through the liquid. I then let this dry, its important to let it dry fully. Often a second layer is useful. I then once dry put in my GS/milliput mix (what I typically mold with) and what I get is; a strong hard body with a LGS layer giving the detail.

The only downside is that the LGS isn't suitable for filing, so its only application is for capture of detail if you want to edit molds then i stick with just the GS/milliput, as its generally better.

It sounds like you want actual casting resin.

can I put actual casting resin in oyumaru?

I've never used oyumaru specifically, but I imagine it would, there's a couple of articles I found with googling that used casting resins with oyumaru.

 KelseyC wrote:
By the time mine got to me when I ordered it it had hardened up and wasn't liquid at all.

Mine was too. Still very workable but hardly liquid. Anyway to fix?