TseGuevara wrote:
Next is chipping. This is an area where a lot of wargamers make a critical mistake – chipping with metal. The thing is, metal chips on armor almost never occur. Real-life chippings are either primer showing through much less adhesive camo paint (and priming is usually done with brown), or, indeed, metal, but already oxidized. In either case, chippings are mostly brown (with the exception of hard edges and tracks). This is even more important when you take your space marine – their armor is made of CERAMICS, not metal, and as such it would make more sense to chip them using light grey or sand colors.
Then there are all sorts of pigments that can greatly help you to initate realistic rust, dirt, dust, etc. Just don't overdo them – dirt tend to accumulate in very specific parts of vehicle. Same goes for rust – tank, which is in constant use, will be kept in good condition, and rust will only form on constantly heated parts, i.e. on exhausts but never on tracks.

 Paradigm wrote:
There are many ways of going about this, depending on the extent you want to weather, the environment you have in mind, the model themselves and the colours you've used. Certain textures and colours respond better than others to specific techniques. Here's a post of mine on some methods from a while back:

 Paradigm wrote:

As for weathering, there are many ways to go about it. A favourite of mine for power armour is sponge weathering for realistic chipping. Take a piece of sponge or scouring pad and lightly dip it in the desired chip colour, then just dab that on the area you want to chip. It's simple, and very effective:



For powerders, just brush them on! I use chalks rather than anything fancy, just a light coat around the boots for tying the minis to the bases:



For larger chips in armour, you can take the colour you use for sponge weathering and paint it on the relevant area, then do a quick highlight of the armour colour around the edge to emphasise the chips (see the fist):



Finally, you can use washes in general to add a veneer of grime to a mini. Typhus Corrosion is a good paint to sparingly use for this, as it's formulated to look a bit gritty/oily when dry.

!

 Azreal13 wrote:
The best weathering advice I can offer is to tell a story with it.

By that, I mean take rust. Rust doesn't spontaneously appear in the middle of a panel, as a rule, it generally appears where water naturally collects, then spreads out from that point, but will favour spreading in the direction that the water overflows from the start point. Should rust appear in the middle of a panel, then there would likely be damage to that panel, so that should be seen too.

Paint doesn't just chip randomly either. There will be areas subject to much heavier wear, the area around the tracks for instance, especially where the tracks on a tank would flick debris up in the air, and leading edges and front facing panels will attract more wear than flat or rear facing.

It doesn't mean damage can't occur in other places, but if you think about where on the model weathering would occur, and how that would develop, you'll get a much more plausible look to the weathering.

Guildenstern wrote:
when you guys are talking about oil washes, what exactly are you using? Do you simply thin the desired oil paint for use as a wash or is there some other product available as an oil wash? or both lol I guess same question for the testors enamels as well.

I've used oil enamel and acrylics (now) but generally for very different things. My testor enamels were always the ones I used for models before (cars planes etc), for instance. I've really only started playing with various techniques, and mixing paint types too, when I started doing miniatures again.