Going to pick some up on the way home and see how it works on Army Painter Primers...

averykess wrote:
Going to pick some up on the way home and see how it works on Army Painter Primers...

I don't imagine you will have too much issue. As I said in my last post, this took of Krylon Fusion which "bonds to plastic". I don't think that Army Painter Primers will be any worse (or better depending on how you look at it ) than that.

A product called Super clean. Comes in a big purple jug at walmart in the automotive section. Same stuff. for about 5 bucks. I use it all the time.

A few notes. Don't wear regular gloves, get some thicker ones. I had some of this stuff get caught in little pinholes in my gloves and it really jacked my skin up for about a week.

Also, you really only need to soak the minis for about an hour or 2. Overnight is way way overkill. Also, this stuff will dissolve super glue like a bandit. Liquid cement will keep its bond as long as you keep the soaking down to an hour or 2. overnight and it will start to lose its bond as well. Metal models come clean very very easy. Some spray paints will not come off as well on plastic models. I tried some red Kyrlon primer on some khorne beserkers and didn't like it. the minis didn't come clean that well.

On another note, I went on vacation once and accidentally left some plastic minis in the tub with the lid closed for about 8 days. I got back, took a tooth brush to those bad boys and it was just fine. Didn't hurt the plastic at all. Not sure how resin would behave in this situation.

Just protect your hands, and wear goggles, toothbrushes tend to cause things like de-greaser splashing in your eyeballs. probably not good.

this entire thread had been super helpful. Getting some minis from a friend in about a week, gonna pick up some Awesome and test this out.

be careful with finecast. it does strip the paint, but for me it made the plastic brittle, like sword snapping in two instead of lightly bending, could be that they were harlequins and frail as well, used LAfantastic.

Thought I'd report on a recent use of some LATA that I used three times and let sit for a couple of months.

Stripped typical paint with ease.

I did have a couple of recently acquired minis, from two separate sources, that the LATA barely touches. I even let it sit in the sauce for 3 days. A little came off, but I have to think that it's not acrylic based paint.

Outside of that, i have a brand new bottle sitting in wait for a LR I bought off of here to arrive.

Well good luck on the LR. And thats pretty weird that the LATA didnt take that paint off. Must be some kind of crazy voodoo/hoodoo magic

Just to say, whilst I've not been able to source the LA awesome sauce, I've been using simple green for a while and I've found one thing made a huge difference.

I switched out my old toothbrush for a colgate sonic power toothbrush (a cheap electric toothbrush that takes an AAA battery) and it's bloody great for cleaning the very delicate dark eldar wyches I was stripping.

http://www.amazon.com/Colgate-Sonic-Power-Tongue-Cleaner/dp/B001KYVQ8A/ref=pd_bxgy_hpc_text_y

Aye, a good toothbrush is a very important tool for stripping paint.

 KingCracker wrote:
Aye, a good toothbrush is a very important tool for stripping paint.

Well, it vibrates in small motions at high speed. It's a lot better at reaching corners and details and is less likely to damage than manual brushing.

Not to mention you can buy one of those for around $5. Pretty cheap, specially if you strip minis often

Wish i could get this in the UK, I use dettol and brake fluid, one smells and can be messy and the other is not at all healthy and you must be careful disposing of. But not found this or Simply green available to us in the UK, a real shame as i have a real need of something like this.

Im fairly certain you can get it online and shipped to your location, though Im sure the shipping will be outlandish

Thanks for the info, I have some old war hammer high elves that I got as a lad...the Everqueen or something like that, which I really would like to repaint.

Hey, I'm going to be in Michigan for a few days in the coming weeks, so I'd love to pick this stuff up, what are the dollar stores called that I can get it at?

Thanks,

Ben

I purchased mine at Dollar Tree.

Thank you

 devilution wrote:
Could you find something like this in Europe?

Did you find something equal in belgium?

Ub3rb3n wrote:
Thank you

Yea, Dollar Tree, and Family dollar as well. Though at Family Dollar its $3, but its also a big ol jug instead of a sprayer. Anywhere else? Not sure


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And hey, I live in Michigan! Welcome! Watch out for muggers

Love this stuff.

Let a metal Ghazgul soak in the "bath" for a work week. By the time I had time to work with the model, the glue was broken down and all of the multitudes of layers of paint practically slid right off.

The Australian version of this is the Coles Homebrand everyday cleaner

It is a green container about 2 litres, should cost about $2.50

Can you use LATA for purely dissolving super glue bonds only? I plan on getting some from the dollar tree tomorrow.

thx i needed this for my tau.they were a painter's nightmare

The following website has a good guide on stripping with detol

http://limited-edition-warhammer.blogspot.co.uk/p/blog-page_27.html

Move over Detol, there's a new print stripper in town. Fairy Power Spray.

I've been using Detol for some time to strip models of paint and while I have found it to be effective it does have some flaws, namely the smell. lol

I had heard that Fairy Power Spray work in a similar way and I had never had the opportunity get my hands on some and try it out, until now. Its on sale at Wilkinson for like £3.50 and a few other places.

How Does it Work?
Basically you spay on the the model, getting a good coverage or empty the bottle into a jar and place the model in. Leave for over 4 hours, more if the model is coated in many layers of paint.
Next put on some gloves and take a tooth brush and scrub away at the model, the paint and primer should come off with ease, if not leave to soak longer and try again.
Unlike Detol the paint doesn't mix with the chemicals, meaning the model is close to looking new without any paint sludge in the gaps and the the liquid is good to use again.
It even takes off any protective layers that have put on like varnish and (this many be seen as a benefit or a minus) it doesn't weaken the glue holding the model together.

Overall its quicker, easier to use and doesn't sink the place out.

Hmmmmmmm...

I've tried Dettol, and it left lots of chunks on my models still (especially plastic) so that doesn't seem to do the whole job.

I can't buy Simple Green Concentrate without spending $30 inc shipping for a regular spray bottle (nor does the non-concentrate even remotely work).

So now I'm onto methylated spirits, and brake fluid if I have to.

God damnit, wish these products were sold outside of the USA urgh.

Do the sell this anywhere in Canada or am i stuck using ebay or going to the states?

 Revenent Reiko wrote:

SilverMK2 wrote:Curse America and its useful chemicals!

im with you!
tried googling and cant find it over here
but i have a tutorial for Dettol which apparently works great so thats the way for me i think

I use the concentrated Dettol and works a treat on metal, finecast and plastic, only downside is on some cheap primer/base layers the plastic is stained.

Works for me though.

Andy

Can you list the ingredients so we can try to find an alternative in UK?

Actually......the bottles dont show ingredients. They dont have it on their site either.

BUT! Heres a PDF of there MSDS and it looks like it shows whats inside of it.
http://apps.wku.edu/sds/uploads/docs/8095.pdf

Weight % Ingredient & Exposure Limit
0.01 to 2.5 Orange Oil Blend(CAS# 8008-57-9) & (CAS#111-76-2))
0.5 to 4.0 Ethoxylated Alcohol (CAS# 9036 19 5)
0.5 to 1.5 Disodium Salt (CAS# 6834-92-0)
0.5 to 1.5 Tetra Sodium EDTA (CAS# 64-02-8)
0.5 to 0.8 Hydroxy Sodium (CAS# 1310-73-2)
QS Water (CAS# 7732-18-5)


Hopefully that has what youre looking for. And as a tid bit, I decided to do an update to the first page of this thread to show how it works on minis covered in waxes and polishes after paint.

M-1

You can buy it from Menards, its a large chain hardware store. This stuff is best I have ever used, and very safe for plastic and resin. Paint washes away under warm water. Just a little scrubbing with a tooth brush will get the rest. It does seem to dilute after time, reaction to air or something I guess.

It is way way more effective then simple green. I have had things soaking in simple green for months and would not come clean. A week in M-1 it was clean down to the resin.

+1 to this thread.

I picked a bottle of LATA today ($1.99 at K-Mart) and have had several models soaking for about 6 hours. I was impatient and decided to see how they are coming along. In only a few hours the paint was sliding off with little effort. I even added a MinWax'd mini to test the effects and (believe it or not) it seemed to be getting stripped faster than the other models. No loss of detail noticed. Great Stuff!

This stuff is amazing, I am brand new to the hobby, and I bought a cheap set off of ebay, some of the models have a GW 1992 so the primeris very settled, but after soaking them for about 12 hours nearly all of them were easily cleaned a few have stains on them. Currently I'm stripping a rhino from the set, and the primer from that is coming off easily as well after only 6 hours, however I want to leave it in the stuff long enough for the glue to break down, as the driver and gun are both broken on the rhino so I want to take them off and replace them with new bits.

lucas wrote:This seems to work very well. I'll have to see if I can find any here in Canada.

Thanks!

brotheraximand wrote:Do the sell this anywhere in Canada or am i stuck using ebay or going to the states?

Dollar Tree is now in Canada and they carry it.

There's a store locator on Dollar Tree Canada's website:

https://www.dollartreecanada.com/

I got some today and am already testing it on Reaper Bones, Privateer's plastic as well as some resin stuff.

Reporting in:

Metal reaper miniature + Vallejo grey surface primer: stripped

Metal reaper miniature + Krylon white primer: stripped

Metal reaper miniature + Liquitex gesso: stripped

Reaper Bones miniature + Vallejo grey surface primer: stripped

Resin miniature + liquitex gesso: primer left in recesses, returned to LATA. Taken out and brushed again : stripped.

Aluminium painting palette: stripped

Nothing was damaged. Only the resin took two baths. Each bath was 30 or so hours. I found a soft bristle tooth brush worked better than the medium. I think the extra flex let the bristles get into the recesses.

Very nice, thanks for sharing your outcome. Also good to hear from another source that LATA won't harm resin.

I can CONFIRM LATA won't harm resin. I soaked 6 Hive Gaurd (resin) for 24 hours in LATA and experienced no loss of detail, brittle-ing or reduction of the super glue bonds.

As a side note, I recently strayed from LATA and decided to give Super Clean (aka Purple Power). I soaked some nids for 24 hours and was really disappointed. It didn't hurt the models but it didn't do a great job at stripping the actual paints/primers/minwax sealer. I picked up some more LATA and 24 hours and another soak, the paint melted off.

Never again will I stray from the goodness that is LATA

Tangential, but : I picked up a couple bottles of this stuff to strip some terminators.

"LA's Totally Awesome all purpose concentrated cleaner"

Under this is a list of stuff it cleans. Lists maybe 2 dozen things. Very first thing on the list? "Blood Stain"

I think I see what's going on here.

More stuff:

Old warzone plastics (I believe they are ABS plastic) with krylon primer. 1 day in the drink, toothbrushed, another day in the stuff = stripped.

Mantic vinyl based plastic (I think they call it "restic" or something stupid like that) with Krylon primer: stripped.

Privateer Press resin objectives with Army Painter primer: stripped.

No damage on anything.

SO far this is my goto stripping agent ..I have also noticed that I can do several batches of stuff in the same solution and I occasionally filter it thru a coffee filter (cone type) in a funnel then add more to my ziplock container. to make up the difference (what staid on the model and got washed down the drain) ..almost time for me to pick up another bottle of the stuff
not bad for a quart bottle I decided to try as an experiment 6 months ago and it has stripped several hundred minis in that time for new paint jobz..(all the 80's and 90's stuff is stripped and most of it repainted )

Just to state the obvious, LATA works great. I'm sure it has already been mentioned in this thread, but it is carried at WalMart as well if you have no dollar stores/Menards/whatever- picked up a 32oz spray bottle of it for $1.47 today.

For those comparing it to Simple Green, note that Simple Green recently had to change their formula to remove the major ingredient that made it work so well for paint stripping. That's why you'll see posts pre-2013 rave about it, but more recent posts claiming many other options are superior.

this stuff is also great for cleaning of semi dried paint. lets say i am adding some texture to a finished model's base. I don't notice that some of the paint gets, lets say, on his face that i spent a half hour on. when i do notice, dip a brush in some LATA and wipe it along the area. Then I clean with water. done.

AK907554 wrote:
Does anyone know of any other effective chemicals for stripping that can be found in america?

lol either your trolling or you didn't read the post.

Let's go with trolling.

Reporting in:

Flames of War resin tank w/ krylon white primer: 1 24 hour bath + toothbrushing = primer in recesses. 2nd bath + toothbrushing = super glue separates and all components separate with mild force. 3rd bath = remaining glue flakes away.

No damage to the resin after more than 72 hours in the LATA.

Thank you. I will try this out, i have some minis i bought off of ebay that i wanted to strip.

Great thread I am glad I stumbled upon this.

I stumbled on this thread and decided to give it a go. I bought a set of ebay for a huge bargain. It was painted terribly and the paint was REALLY thick.

I tried using non-acetone nail polish remover and it worked somewhat but I was paranoid that if I left them in there for more then 5 minutes that all my details would melt.

This has worked beautifully. After about 24 hours, most of the paint was easy to scrub off and after 48 hours the rest was scrubbed down.

I'll probably start my own modeling/painting thread and this will certainly be a part of it! Thank you, sir!


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It's worth adding that I spent $5 on this. 3 for the large bottle and $2 on 2 toothbrushes (hard and soft bristle). As noted by KingCracker, there is still a ton left over for other models. You can also use it as a very effective cleaner.

I would recommend gloves for your hands though if you plan on working on your models for long periods of time.

I put my LATA in an ultrasonic cleaner and left my latest trades in there for a few hours, cycling it through a few times due to the heat. Thick, caked on paint just disintegrated. Minimal toothbrush work was required. eBay lots are a breeze with this stuff.

If it helps, i use simple green and thats great for paint stripping, it just comes right off, i only need to scrub mine when paint it caught inbetween REALLY tight detail

The only way to go :

I want to ask if you can dump LATA down the sink without any issues? I just want to be sure.

Yep, it's a biodegradable degreaser, so no problems with sink disposal.

And to reinforce that, yes X 2.


But you do realize you can reuse the stuff several times over right?

I'm still using the same batch I started with. It's black from heavy black primer people put on used stuff i bought, but it just keeps working. I think I've stripped 75+ miniatures with the first bottle so far. I've only been reporting results when i strip a new material or a new paint type.

Thanks
Will try this soon

I wanted to contribute something to this awesome thread as I've done plenty of buying painted
second hand miniatures and stripping them and I think these kind of threads are worth more in these kind of forums
than most recent tactics about how to play and for OP for the effort.

I've used many different paint stripping methods and this just seems too good to be true.

Is there any markings on the LATA what is the pH of the chemical?
Has anyone ordered this online somewhere to Europe?

The only one I use these days is pH 14 which is highly corrosive and something you can't handle without heavy
protective gloves, ventilation and eye protection. It's reusable and strips metal and plastic in 1-12h clean of any paint with no problem or
loss of details thou.. But would like to have something that works as fast and is not so toxic.

I only wish we could have that in Finland too... Or maybe I just need to visit states for good reason

 galford wrote:
The only way to go :

Except for metal miniatures, there you can use the good stuff: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/516912.page#6222059

Rip Fine Cast with this stuff. Been WAY MORE EFFECTIVE THEN SIMPLE GREEN on primer. The Fine Cast seems to semi melt. Can't quite tell as of yet though!

When you guys were finished scrubbing, did you just use warm water to wash off the LATA and let air dry for a few days?

Thanks!!!