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I absolutely love Necromunda, and the terrain you are making is incredible. Makes me want to make some for myself and for anyone who has seen my necro hoard they will tell you that I need no more industrial walk-ways. I would suggest that you consider making molds of your large nuts/rivets, even a good quick press mold would save you a ton of time (to reinvest into moar terrain).

For your next trick I would recommend a elevator similar to the outlanders kit.

Also are you basing these building on MDF or plastic?

@dsteingass

Where do you recommend online for purchasing specialty plastic like the ladders and beams?

@ RSJake

I do a lot of styrene work myself. nothing as epic as this thread. I use this for my straight line cutting.

Its a Fiskar rotary trimmer, I put the plastic in it close the bar and pass the cutting blade over the plastic once or twice using light pressure. Then I bend the board and it snaps cleanly where the scare was made by the blade. Like the OP said you score the plastic instead of trying to cut through it.

I have had that cutter for around 8 years now and I am still using the blades that came with it. I use it on plastic and my wife uses it for our family photos. We are still using the original blades that came with it and it works great. So borrow hers when shes not looking, she wont know

I request a ADA approved elevator, or one like in the outlanders set

I have an unhealthy amount of dangerous underhive elevators, hence my desire to see an epic scratchbuilt version

The Yamato is very impressive, My nicest is a lego jawa sandcrawler or small scale star destroyer. The wife and family often buy me legos at christmas b/c they don't know enough about me to buy my primary hobby interests. I like that VW kit too. I just got all my legos from the early 80s out of storage, and cleaned them so that they would be ready when my little boy gets old enough to play with them.

I have around 15 or so pairs of the knuckle whippers. They got banned in our stores because they weren't consistent some were longer than others even though they said the same length. And almost all of them were not accurate when compared to a tape measure.

@ dsteingass
If you get time away from sleep and plastic check out this guys blog posts there are around 11 HoA Table Progress posts. The guy built a multi-level table.

http://agentlemansones.blogspot.com/2011/07/hoa-table-progress-5.html

I thought I would check here first, I was doing some fall cleaning and have some Necromunda terrain that I had planned on listing on the eBays.



It is 6 small angled buildings, 3 of the squarish 3 floor buildings, 3 of the triangle with a deadly hole 2 floor buildings, 2 of the split level tower buildings. The 4 sets of bulk heads are cemented together and the box at the top has 66 additional bulkheads (those bulkheads are all the solid sculpt)

If anyone is interested just PM me, otherwise I plan on putting them on eBay Sunday Nov 6th evening.

this guy built 4 tables that would all line up when placed together. Each is 3 ft x 4ft and some had 2 levels

http://agentlemansones.blogspot.com/2011/06/hoa-table-progress-2.html



It can be done, but you really gotta plan it out in advance.

dsteingass wrote:
Question, WHY do models need to pass each other in a cramped sewer?

They don't Necromunda has a complex enough set of rules to allow & compensate for terrain like this.

I would recommend extending the bottom by about a 1/4 inch, but I would do it by adding a piece to the bottom of the existing mock up. Basically building up an area for critters to crawl out of and for liquid to be flowing during normal times.



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Important question, where do you get cobblestone foamcore from?

Melonfish wrote:
Got any tips for cutting things square? i'm using damned sharp blades and a metal ruler but i think at this point a set square may help.
you make this all look WAY to easy heh

Another bash tonight and i'll post results wish me luck
pete

I use a lot of plastic card in mold box building when casting, means they gotta be square and go together with no gaps. I use heavy duty clamps to clamps down my card and ruler/T-square/Ste Square and then score & snap.

We wish you intelligence, because luck runs out.

Simple, tunnels run under very dangerous terrain features. Like nasty liquids or crystal spider infested zones.

Yes Legos go with resin molds like peanut butter goes with jelly.

I love the work on the guns, when/if you want to make them in resin let me know.

Soylent Green Crackers, Just Like Grandma Used To Taste.

http://laughingsquid.com/soylent-green-crackers-just-like-grandma-used-to-taste/

For all you rivet-heads out there. I found these listed on eBay, they are buy it now with reasonable shipping.
$8.99 for a set of 6 bulkheads with $1.90 shipping. Bulkheads usually go for around $2-3.25 each nowadays if you are looking for a bunch now is the time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Necromunda-Bulkheads-plastic-terrain-Warhammer-40k-OOP-1-/270893942488?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f128986d8#ht_2071wt_952

When we cast a lot of Hirst molds for my buddy in plaster of Paris we set up a drying rack next to the basement dehumidifier and kept a sheet tented over the setup To concentrate the effect. we eventually re-purposed someones jerky maker food dehydrator thingy to rack the pieces on. We found that we could demold rather quickly and let the parts finish drying out that way.

Also when using plaster and Open molds like this the Hirst site recommends using a big vibrator.



to make a vibrating table. I think your next project needs to be a RIVETED VIBRATOR and stand


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I think I am gonna order this myself, check these out for the hive.





all of these are sized to work together, I really like the first one for trim bitz

It is such a nice thing to have a hobby friendly wife. My wife buys me legos and does not flip out about an entire basement dedicated to gaming. She does not play 40k but will play Necromunda and bloodbowl.

I go to the basement, she either studies for her doctorate or plays skyrim. Probably also helps that she used to work for reaper minis running a retail store.



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Check this guy out, this is rather amazing plastic card work.
http://eldar.arhicks.co.uk/miniatures/craftworld/craftworld_pegasus_1.php

mxwllmdr wrote:I think Galorn needs to do a VERY detailed utorial on mold making. I have tried to learn this in the past and there is something that I am missing....

Check the blog in my sig. I have 3 tutorials about mold making and casting

Never too old for good toys. I'll be 36 this year and the wife and I have about 1000 sqft basement dedicated to our geekdom. Speaking of which I am in Atlanta for business this week a quick google search says that not only is my favorite silicon and resin supplier here yay no shipping but also a lego store and tower games. It's gonna be a good trip.

Rogue Wolves wrote:aannd.. BAM heres where the movie begins... now we will skip ahead to where i kidnap your precious plasticard, and those awsome brass clamps. now either you make the terrain or we replay the whole Taken movie.. but let me warn you, you are definatly not QuiGon......

http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/09/full-auto-shotgun-aa-12.html

This is how riveters and resin addicts protect the workshops.

That is me in the videos last year and about 50 pounds ago.

Hmelrose wrote:

Galorn wrote:

Hmelrose wrote:
Have you any experience making moulds from resin model pieces? Is it the same?

largely, although IP issues might arise depending on how the resultant mold is intended to be used.

These would only be for personal use.

Before the extreme right and extreme left folks start sounding off, understand the following.
Making copies of someone else's models is counterfeiting and under US law it is illegal even if you only intend to use them for personal use. Some feel this is morally wrong and some don't.
Also in the US we have just had a scare with the SOPA and PIPA bills which fortunately did not pass "yet" with those bills hanging out in the house/senate consider how they interact with this scenario. Dakka is a website that GW or the IP owner of other resin models could force a shut down of without the standard kind of due process we are used to having here in the US. So many people running websites and forums have been extra jumpy when IP violations get mentioned.

That having been said check out my blog, there are a couple of mold making and casting tutorials. Feel free to contact me if you need advice.

http://warfrog.blogspot.com/p/completed-projects.html
One of my molds

Depending on the piece you may want to use a one piece split mold. Basically you pour the entire mold at once and then gently cut one side near the pour gate to remove the master and casts.

I would post a pic but my examples might violate an IP or 2. for pipes with fittings and such it would probably be a good option.

Most resin companies use this method. when you cut the side if you cut in a S shape it helps to align and reduce flash/mold lines. I see good results using the technique.

Offending IP violation is not visible but the pour gate is still in this mold. This is a 28mm head mold it captured all of the detail on the tentacles and skull ridges.

Just fyi from my side of the table it only goes up to 9, just sayin