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Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

So I posted yesterday I think but I thought I'd go about this a different way. The original post is here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/591072.page

Basically, I have a bunch of models (Infinity and Warmahordes) and I really really want to start painting them. But I've never painted and don't know where to start. So one option is like the Vallejo colour sets with like 72 paints, but thered probably be some I don't use and it's a lot of money.

It's really starting to get on my nerves cos I just keep looking at all these paints online and it's overwhelming me. I'd ideally like all the ones I need in one go, because I don't want to realise I'm missing one and lose all my momentum.

Could someone please help me, by looking at the factions I have (Skorne, Cryx, Ariadna, and Nomads) and tell me a list of colours I'd need, including like highlights and washes and stuff if possible. I know it's a lot to ask, I'd really really appreciate it, cos this is just winding me up so much at the moment.

Photos: (these are actually models I have from the ranges)

I know I'm asking a lot, sorry :/



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Why are all the photos showing the same, ffs -.-

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/04/22 14:53:01


 
   
Made in gb
Brigadier General





The new Sick Man of Europe

It looks like you've accidentally posted 5 identical picture of Kazakhs.

DC:90+S+G++MB++I--Pww211+D++A++/fWD390R++T(F)DM+
 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

I posted all different pictures but it put them all as that for some reason and this whole thing is doing my head in. I'll try fix it one sec
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Skorne
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Cryx
[Thumb - image.jpg]
Cryx

   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Nomads
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Ariadna.

Sorry I didn't know how else to do it :(
[Thumb - image.jpg]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/04/22 14:56:10


 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Ariadna 2


Automatically Appended Next Post:
This post is a train wreck, I'm so sorry -.-
[Thumb - image.jpg]

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/04/22 14:57:52


 
   
Made in us
Horrific Howling Banshee





Start with how do you want to paint. Airbrush? Look at Vallejo. Palette? I like Reaper. Straight from pot? Games Workshop works.

Color:pick your base color and accent color to the level of dark red or bright green. Google "Games workshop color match chart" and go to the dakkadakka option. That will help you pick colors across paint lines. I like to buy the base color, then one shade up and down. Reaper offers a discount for this, probably encourages this in me. It gives you a quick highlight and shade color with minimal mixing.

Additional paints. You have 6 from the last step. Now think bases. Grass? Snow? Desert? Buy one. Buy white and black, so you can mix up other colors. Metals. I buy then straight out. You probably want a steel tone, then I pick up copper and gold. More if you need (like brass).

Filling it out: try to have a mid tone for the 6 basic colors. It will help with mixing. This should get you to maybe 18 or 20 paints. That should cover pretty much every need you have for a while.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/22 15:08:25


 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

So do you mean buy six base colours (red yellow orange green blue purple) and then one shade up and down for each?
   
Made in us
Horrific Howling Banshee





Just the main ones for the model. Use the blue infinity guys as an example. You want a mid green for the vests and a teal blue for the cloth. Buy highlight and shade tones for those. You really only need one orange, yellow, or red because those are spot accent colors.

To add in the second infinity troops, pick up a lime green and some shade for that. The first set of greens you bought should handle the darker green.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, flesh tones. You will need one of those. Always forget that. I like to do tanned flesh, then dry brush some "classic white dude" color on top.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/04/22 15:29:05


 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Okay thank you, that's really helpful. So for the Skorne I'd need a red, and a darker and lighter one, and a grey and darker and lighter, and then good trim? That kinda idea?
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander





Ramsden Heath, Essex

Don't take this the wrong way but if you are at that level of skill, and I'm ashamed to suggest this, but perhaps a trip to a GW for a painting tutorial might help?

Obviously feign interest in Warhammer but their painting lessons are supposedly good. Once you have the basics you can start experimenting on your own models.

I'd suggest any of the basic painting kits from Vallejo, GW or PP. Get a basic one that has 10-16 colours and start practicing. You don't need 3 types of a colour to paint it, just a range of colours and black/blue and white/yellow to darken or lighten the colours.

How do you promote your Hobby? - Legoburner "I run some crappy wargaming website " 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

I don't take that the wrong way at all, and a tutorial will probably help, thank you! Also gonna look on YouTube for some too.

The thing with mixing colours like that is I doubt I'd get the same each time so for consistency the 3 colour thing would be better I think.
   
Made in us
Horrific Howling Banshee





ImAGeek wrote:
Okay thank you, that's really helpful. So for the Skorne I'd need a red, and a darker and lighter one, and a grey and darker and lighter, and then good trim? That kinda idea?


Yup, exactly. Also, you can check "girl paints" on YouTube. Watching her gave me some good highlight tips. What I suggested is a quick and reasonably easy way to add some depth. It also sets you up for layering later as you have some tighter control with premixed shades. I am not a professional painter, so these are just some of the things that helped me. This approach helped me move past "slather things in red paint".

The tutorial notprop mentioned should teach you some techniques like dry brushing. Those are very helpful.

Lastly. Basecoat. I spray a black or white Basecoat on models first to give a nice painting surface. The War store online sells generics and there are plenty of other options out there.

Looking at some of the new GW tutorials, they are selling a serious layering method using many different paints. You can resist that pressure to buy 800 different tones. Eventually you may find use for it, but just a little bit of dark tone in crevices and a little light tone on ridges goes a long way.
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Okay thank you, feel a bit less overwhelmed now. Is she the German one? Her videos are good from what I've seen how are the Vallejo surface primers as base coat? And how do I know when to use black and white?
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

Primers are not base coats, sorry to be pedantic but those are two terms you'll see used regularly and shouldn't be conflated.

A basecoat is the initial coat of colour which is laid down over a primer.

A true primer has properties which promote adherence to the surface it is applied to, and then provides a good surface for your basecoat to bind to, preventing chipping and promoting a smooth coat of colour.

Many people often prime with ordinary paint (the GW spray cans for example, are just paint, not primer) and for plastic that's usually ok, some resin too, but if you're keen to do the best job possible, or are working with metal models, a true primer is the best option.

Vallejo surface primers are excellent primers, and come in a variety of colours outside of black, white and grey (although anything outside those three will typically be for a specific job)

You decide when to use what colour primer depending on what your eventual plan for the mini is. If you intend it to be brightly coloured, or one of the colours that traditionally lacks good coverage (yellow, some reds) then white is the better choice, black tends to mute the colours, giving arguable a more realistic look to some paint jobs, and is arguably more forgiving on beginners as missed recesses will just look dark, rather than jumping out as unpainted as they would over a white undercoat.

Grey, as you might expect, is for a medium, where you perhaps want some bright and some muted colours on the same model.

Ultimately, a good undercoat with a good primer is the most important, the colour you choose can just make the finished look you're going for easier to achieve.

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

Ask me about
Barnstaple Slayers Club 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

Also, pick up some throw away figures to practice and experiment on.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/22 17:38:06


   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Okay thank you guys. Probably get the Vallejo primer then, dunno whether to go grey or black. And I have buckets or hormagants to practice on haha. I found a website that sells reaper in the UK so probably gonna order some of their triads, and the Vallejo primers, and start there. Might also get the Cryx starter set for the bright greens and their grey/green/black hull colours. Maybe.
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

Assuming you mean Miniature Heroes for Reaper (only one I've ever found!) be aware there lead time for orders for anything not in stock is at least three weeks, I'm currently in week 4.

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

Ask me about
Barnstaple Slayers Club 
   
Made in us
Drakhun





Eaton Rapids, MI

Primer is essential a good primer will help keep paint from chipping off models later. Also Keep in mind that primers come in different colors. Vallejo can be found in Black, Grey, and White. Depending on how bright and colorful or dark and dreary you want the colors to look will depend on the primer you choose.

Paint lines. Each line has good and not as good colors. I use paints from PP, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Color. Tamiya (for golds). Reaper HD, and even some of the older GW paints. As a new painter I would recommend exploring and see what is available in your area.

Privateer Press does offer faction paint bundles which give you the paints you need to recreate their studio paint scheme. For $20 its ok and gets you 6 pots of paint.

Good Luck and post up some pictures.


Now with 100% more blog....

CLICK THE LINK to my painting blog... You know you wanna. Do it, Just do it, like right now.
http://fltmedicpaints.blogspot.com

 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Three weeks?! Maybe not then. Was gonna start while I'm off work next week haha. Probably Vallejo and P3 then! Although the triad thing reaper do was bloody easy. Damn.

Thanks I normally shop online for my miniature stuff as it's only a GW shop near me so any brand is open for testing. I will post some pictures up when I get started, for you all to laugh at

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/22 18:29:12


 
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

He's quick if it's showing in stock on the site, but he doesn't keep much on hand. You could order direct from Reaper, they do free Intl Shipoing for £60 or above, but even then, next week would be a struggle, and you're risking being hit with VAT and handling charges for orders from the US.

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

Ask me about
Barnstaple Slayers Club 
   
Made in gb
Brigadier General





The new Sick Man of Europe

You should look at Giraldez Facebook for Infinity, he writes tutorials about what colours his paint jobs use.

DC:90+S+G++MB++I--Pww211+D++A++/fWD390R++T(F)DM+
 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

All the ones I saw had stock on the website how quick is quick?

And thanks, I'll check that out
   
Made in gb
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





Belfast

I'd take one squad at a time, pick your pallete and a primer. Black or white if you want a darker or a lighter model. Then stuff you will always need, basically a pot of white, a pot of black, and probably one metallic. Then work out your pallette. Base coat, highlight and shade, then maybe pick up a wash. GW used to do Devlan mud now it's Agrax earthshade and I've not used it yet. It's a good "Go to" wash.



For the Lion and Terra!

Because nothing in the galaxy is black and white, Mankind views the Space Marines as a last resort. The last line. When all else fails. They take up the burden. The noble defenders of Mankind. The last hope.

With finecast you can bypass the washing stage and throw them straight into the bin.

Or cut out the middleman and just flush some money down the toilet.
-Chromedog 
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

Don't rightly recall, but it didn't take long, few days maybe? Don't want to make promises on his behalf though!

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

Ask me about
Barnstaple Slayers Club 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Well with infinity and hordes it's more single model basis than squads (well you have infantry in hordes but I'm going beast heavy, and I'll probably get my cryx infantry later) but thanks for the advice

Hmm I might risk ordering from there cos the triad thing is really easy haha
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

Works splendidly too, especially their flesh tones and when airbrushing, but if you're starting out, it takes a lot of the guesswork out of things, and Reaper paint is superb quality too.

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

Ask me about
Barnstaple Slayers Club 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

Yeah the guesswork taken out is definitely good! And I read an excellent review for them.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
So if I got a triad of red, green, blue/grey, grey and skin, what else would I need?

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/04/22 21:03:27


 
   
 
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