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hi all. ive been trying to get into airbrushing and im having a hard time with a couple of things. I have a compressor and ive tried using a couple of cheap airbrushes. reason y i havent bought a name brand one is because i wanted to try it with the cheap ones before i invest a ton of money. heres the issue, the cheap ones keep clogging on me even though im using the vallejo model air paints and i even thin it down to about a 50/50. question to those who are familiar with airbrushing. Do the cheap brushes tend to clog easier because of the quality? will i have this problem is i investin one of theexpensive iawatas or badgers out there?

You can buy a decent airbrush for a good price as all the major companies offer "intro" brushes that are well made, robust enough to take some newbie punishment, and cheap enough to not break the bank (between $100 and $150).

The experience of using a quality brush, even the cheaper models, is head and shoulders above a shoddy knock-off brush. The other thing to note is that if you buy a nicer brush and decide it isn't for you, it is much easier to sell it and recoup most of you money.

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
You can buy a decent airbrush for a good price as all the major companies offer "intro" brushes that are well made, robust enough to take some newbie punishment, and cheap enough to not break the bank (between $100 and $150).

The experience of using a quality brush, even the cheaper models, is head and shoulders above a shoddy knock-off brush. The other thing to note is that if you buy a nicer brush and decide it isn't for you, it is much easier to sell it and recoup most of you money.

+999

If you accidentally hurt a part of a knock off airbrush, where do you get parts? How about shipping? Customer service? I paid around $60 for my Badger 105 Patriot, and I don't have to worry too much about anything.

Keep in mind, this is definitely one of those things that you WILL get what you pay for. Don't pay much, and you won't get much. Of course there are exceptions to the rule, but never count yourself that lucky; karma will ensure you regret the thought.

As for your clogging issue: what are you thinning with? You can get away with thinning with alternatives (Windex, rubbing alcohol, distilled water, etc.), but ymmv, AND you have to fight side effects (Such as tip dry, clogging, negative effects on the paint/finish, etc). I suggest a thinner the same brand as the paint you use (in your case Vallejo). This ensures that you will have no ill-effects on the paint/finish (Typically). These are Model Air paints though, so should actually not require thinning. What is the suggested PSI for the paints? I know some of my Badger paints require upwards of 50PSI, where others in my Wicked series only require ~20PSI. Check that bottle for proper usage!

Also, do a search on the forum, threads like this pop up regularly and I'm guilty myself of many a rant to get folks started with airburshing. The short version:

-DO NOT buy a compressor without an air tank or moisture trap. A compressor is an investment and even a cheap decent one will last you more than a decade easily. Tank and trap for constant pressure without moisture droplets.

-Get a cheap airbrush to begin with. It takes some time to get a hang of it, and you can eaisly muck things up when taking it apart and putting it back together in the off-change that you get it clogged. Once you're used to it and comfortable with the equipment, materials, and technique, you'll know better what you want from a more expensive airbrush.

In even shorter terms, get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1416588541&sr=1-2&keywords=compressor+with+tank+and+airbrush

 fenrir1997 wrote:
If you accidentally hurt a part of a knock off airbrush, where do you get parts? How about shipping? Customer service? I paid around $60 for my Badger 105 Patriot, and I don't have to worry too much about anything.

I have a cheapo Chinese airbrush, my local hobby store carries parts for it. Replacement needles, different sized needles/nozzles, etc.

I'm still using the cheapo airbrush after about a year, nothing has broken on it yet. Reading reviews it's hard to pin down what actually makes a more expensive airbrush better. I asked the guy who owns my local hobby store and he thought about it for a while and just said that the parts tend to last longer and they feel a bit smoother, but there's nothing he does with his expensive brush that he can't do with his cheap one (he was struggling to give me reasons why I should upgrade if my cheapo chinese one was still working ).

I'll probably upgrade eventually when I can afford to burn the money and I'll probably regret not doing it earlier but I'll blame all the people who can't give good clear reasons why I should have upgraded earlier

I have heard a couple of people say the cheapo chinese ones clog easier than a good quality brush, not sure how true that might be.

Well, in my experience (i did 4-5 years with cheapo airbrushes and only upgraded last year to more expensive ones).

The difference is build quality, not necesarrily paint quality. With a cheap airbrush you will have to pay double attention to the needle and inner parts. They will be flimsy, and a more expensive needle will bend less easily.

Drop a cheap one and you will have pieces bent or dislodged, a more expensive one will stand more abuse. But of cousre, cheap or expensive, take care with- and for your equimpent.

You can find good deals if you look around though. I bought a Badger Sotar 20/20 and a Badger Rage last year. The rage at a little discount online. The Sotar was quite the find on Amazon.com even with the shipping from yankeestand to Belgium it was only 80 EUR. The prices seem to fluctuate a bit, but boy what a steal.. Biut still I'd suggest to first get the hang of it using a cheap brush.

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416993790&sr=8-1&keywords=sotar+2020+airbrush

So when you say the difference is build quality do you mean they're any easier to use (more precise control) or simply durability? The hobby store owner seemed to suggest mostly just durability.

Yeah, mainly durabilty of the parts; a needle that won't bend at the slightest touch, the needle nozzle that won't deform when dropped, stuff like that.

And also ergonomics, the heavier materials make it sit better in your hand, some adjustable parts are open or easier to reach, etc.

[EDIT]Oh yeah, and they tend to be more accurate, especially for dual action airbrushes (amount of paint and amount of air all with one trigger). but for stuff like basecoating, apllying washes and glazes, and some 'rough' highlighting this won't matter as much. But if you're going to do intricate detailing on Eldar vehicles or body-paint a nipple on a passed-out buddy's forehead, this will matter.

When you say clogging, are you referring to dry tip (where the acrylics dry on the tip of the needle)? Dry tip is ultimately unavoidable, but if you get some needle juice (like Badger's Regdab) that can help prolong the formation of Dry tip, and so can the use of paint retarders.

Also, are you using a gravity feed or siphon feed? And what type of compressor are you using?

Clogging, indeed a dry tip when doing long sessions.

But once in a blue moon I do have a full-blown obstruction as i still use some home-brew paint mixes I have since a few years in their jars and if i don't pay attention when pouring paint in the receptacle it can have some tiny chunks or flakes in it. Which require some vigourous spraying of thinner or water while pumping the needle. Anything to avoild disassembling the brush.

My Badger renegade is syphon feed, and I use is mostmy for large batches of basecoating and applying washes on a lot of models at one. i got this one as my first 'proper' air brush after the cheapo broke and I was very thrilled to see the two-pronged nozzle that cleaned quicker, clogged less, with a super comfortable trigger.

The Badger Sotar 20/20 I've bought last year was a level-up in wow factor. It feels solid and comfortable and is a gravity feed. It's super-easy to clean. So easy in fact that this has become my main airbrush I use for applying washes and glazes for anything up to a dozen models, and for use of my 'old' mixes, as pouring some paint into the cup on top means I'll never suck up any little specks from the bottom of the jar. It can easily be used for super-fine stuff, but I use it for rather heavy-duty work and it works great.

My compressor is still the basic model I bought in 2008. And is still purring quietly like on the day I received it from Germany. It was a kit like this: http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/AS-186-Complete-Airbrush-Kit-Compressor-With-Tank-/200600974912?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2eb4bff640

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 fenrir1997 wrote:
If you accidentally hurt a part of a knock off airbrush, where do you get parts? How about shipping? Customer service? I paid around $60 for my Badger 105 Patriot, and I don't have to worry too much about anything.

I have a cheapo Chinese airbrush, my local hobby store carries parts for it. Replacement needles, different sized needles/nozzles, etc.

I'm still using the cheapo airbrush after about a year, nothing has broken on it yet. Reading reviews it's hard to pin down what actually makes a more expensive airbrush better. I asked the guy who owns my local hobby store and he thought about it for a while and just said that the parts tend to last longer and they feel a bit smoother, but there's nothing he does with his expensive brush that he can't do with his cheap one (he was struggling to give me reasons why I should upgrade if my cheapo chinese one was still working ).

I'll probably upgrade eventually when I can afford to burn the money and I'll probably regret not doing it earlier but I'll blame all the people who can't give good clear reasons why I should have upgraded earlier

I have heard a couple of people say the cheapo chinese ones clog easier than a good quality brush, not sure how true that might be.

My primary complaint is accessibility to replacement parts. You're lucky enough to have access to the parts you need for your airbrush from a local hobby shop. The same may not be said for the OP. I suggest a brand name, because those parts are typically more easily found.
And, of course, a lot must be said of the user in their ritual for care and maintenance lol. I could own a $1000 or a $10, but if I don't care for it properly, it'll fail like anything else. Clean it, oil it, store it well.

As for cheapo brushes clogging easier, I would say that is probably also the user. The dimensions of the spray tip are going to be the same, no matter if it was forged from Platinum or plastic. A chrome plating does make a difference, and the quality of that chrome-plating will vary depending on the manufacturer.

Side note: if you have some BAD tip dry, I'd suggest getting a paint retarder for your medium. I use acrylics, I use an acrylic paint retarder. BUT: A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY. Add too much, and your paint will take FOREVER to dry. Or, if you thin your paint with Windex or rubbing alcohol, STOP. This stuff dries your paint faster. I did it ONCE, never again.

Another side note: I use a 1gallon Pancake compressor from Walmart. Loud, but effective. Can find a nearly identical one from Harbor Freight for the same price. Can't pump up the tires on my car though (takes too long), so I need an upgrade...

Replacement parts is a bad joke, you can get 10 chinese airbrushes for the price of my Iwata or any other beginner brush more or less, and two chinese airbrushes for each replacement part.

I mostly find my Iwata better with regards to control, but that could be widely affected just by changing a spring so I guess a bit of tinkering can save a lot of money.

Windex (1/10th diluted with water) is a very good thinner, it dries faster and that's not a bad thing to me.

My cheap airbrush did not clog any more than my Iwata, it's all in da mix though, except Vallejo Model Air should work without any thinning in a 0.35mm and up guaranteed.

morgoth wrote:
Replacement parts is a bad joke, you can get 10 chinese airbrushes for the price of my Iwata or any other beginner brush more or less, and two chinese airbrushes for each replacement part.

I mostly find my Iwata better with regards to control, but that could be widely affected just by changing a spring so I guess a bit of tinkering can save a lot of money.

Windex (1/10th diluted with water) is a very good thinner, it dries faster and that's not a bad thing to me.

My cheap airbrush did not clog any more than my Iwata, it's all in da mix though, except Vallejo Model Air should work without any thinning in a 0.35mm and up guaranteed.

This is true. However, keep in mind, Iwata has the most expensive replacement parts, and they are silly expensive. Other brands, like Paasche and Badger, have much more reasonable replacement parts ($10 needles, for example).

Of course, with a cheap Chinese airbrush, if it breaks, I would just buy a new airbrush. Then you get a few more spare parts

With a 0.3mm+ needle, 15PSI+ on an Iwata, you shouldn't need to thin VMA or VGA at all. Also, airbrush thinner from Vallejo is very cheap, if you want to use the same formulation (and are using model or game air).

I'm taking the plunge into airbrushing myself and did some research on the topic. You will slowly but surely find that other than the blanket requirements for model airbrushing, it really depends on the artist. I know this response could be frustrating, but I did find some consensus among the masses that the Iwata Eclipse gravity fed is a good starter brush for model painting, which is what I went with. Other than that roughly general consensus, the reason I went with this model is because it has a fairly sizable hopper for paint and replaceable parts are inexpensive and widely available (you can pick up just about anything Iwata related at your local Hobby Lobby). I found that parts availability and price are the two biggest factors in deciding on a specific brand airbrush. Once you get around that part, then its all about your personal/subjective preferences -- look, feel, how well it sits in your hand, etc.

I'm currently doing research on a compressor. Was about to dive into the Iwata Smart Jet but realize there's significantly cheaper compressors out there that can do just as well if not better a job. Also, on the compressor topic, certain paint companies have a recommended PSI, so depending on your choice of paint would have some weight in your compressor decision from what I understand.

 hybridmoments82 wrote:
I'm taking the plunge into airbrushing myself and did some research on the topic. You will slowly but surely find that other than the blanket requirements for model airbrushing, it really depends on the artist. I know this response could be frustrating, but I did find some consensus among the masses that the Iwata Eclipse gravity fed is a good starter brush for model painting, which is what I went with. Other than that roughly general consensus, the reason I went with this model is because it has a fairly sizable hopper for paint and replaceable parts are inexpensive and widely available (you can pick up just about anything Iwata related at your local Hobby Lobby). I found that parts availability and price are the two biggest factors in deciding on a specific brand airbrush. Once you get around that part, then its all about your personal/subjective preferences -- look, feel, how well it sits in your hand, etc.

I'm currently doing research on a compressor. Was about to dive into the Iwata Smart Jet but realize there's significantly cheaper compressors out there that can do just as well if not better a job. Also, on the compressor topic, certain paint companies have a recommended PSI, so depending on your choice of paint would have some weight in your compressor decision from what I understand.

The eclipse (HP-CS) is an excellent airbrush. Don't buy it expecting that you'll never need another airbrush as your skills and requirements improve though, or you will be disappointed. The biggest problem is that you're stuck with a 0.35mm needle, and the preset handle (the real, stainless steel one) is prohibitively expensive.

I know that people say you can paint little tiny lines, even with a 0.35, and they are tight. But this is like painting eyes with a size 1 round. It's possible, but a micro brush sure make it a lot easier. It is really no different with an airbrush.

I would not recommend Iwata compressors. They are pricey for hat you pay, even as a bundle.

Talys wrote:

The eclipse (HP-CS) is an excellent airbrush. Don't buy it expecting that you'll never need another airbrush as your skills and requirements improve though, or you will be disappointed. The biggest problem is that you're stuck with a 0.35mm needle, and the preset handle (the real, stainless steel one) is prohibitively expensive.

I know that people say you can paint little tiny lines, even with a 0.35, and they are tight. But this is like painting eyes with a size 1 round. It's possible, but a micro brush sure make it a lot easier. It is really no different with an airbrush.

Very good point. I did indeed read quite a bit that airbrush artists could stack an arsenal of 5 or more airbrushes depending on the job. I understand that the Eclips HP-CS is the most versatile for the price in that regard. I fully expect that the needle limitations will be a factor and if I continue airbrushing, I will need to expand my arsenal.

Talys wrote:
I would not recommend Iwata compressors. They are pricey for hat you pay, even as a bundle.

This forum has saved me from a massively (and unnecessarily) expensive investment in that regard. Certainly appreciate it. What compressor do you use, or would you recommend to a beginner? I set aside a budget for an Iwata Smart Jet ($200+) so anything less than $200 would be very much achievable.

Thanks for the input!

might be a dumb question but why is the air tank so critical? i have just a regular compressor and someone suggested and it works fine.

The tank simply holds the air so your compressor doesn't need to constantly run. Some say it delivers the air differently as well but I haven't found that.

I have a paasche with a tank which is quiet and nice, though it still runs during most usage, and I have an Iwata Smart Jet that is 6 years old now and still works great.


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For airbrushes I use my cheapy knock-off the most now a days, just because I'm lazy and I don't care if it only gets a quick clean after using hah.

For fine detail stuff I use the H&S which is amazing, but the nozzles are so darn delicate (and expensive to replace).

My first was an Iwata hp-cs, that is great but I don't use often. Note though, Iwata customer service is amazing and I've discovered first hand they'll replace most parts no questions asked.

 hybridmoments82 wrote:


This forum has saved me from a massively (and unnecessarily) expensive investment in that regard. Certainly appreciate it. What compressor do you use, or would you recommend to a beginner? I set aside a budget for an Iwata Smart Jet ($200+) so anything less than $200 would be very much achievable.

Thanks for the input!

I have the Badger TC910. It's currently $186 on Amazon, including free shipping in the USA:

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417061428&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+compressor

Or, you can get it at Michaels for about the same price, if you find a 50% coupon. It has a 3L tank, has a proper moisture trap/regulator, and is the "upgraded" hobby style, where the assembly is wrapped in a metal case to reduce movement, vibration, and burning yourself by accidentally touching a hot part.

A couple of people on the forum have bought this now, I think happily so

One big plus with the HP-CS, compared to the Paasche Talon 0.38mm (I own both) is that the HP-CS takes much less time to clean. Partly, this is because even though the needle is smaller (0.35mm), the amount of paint that can flow through when the needle is pulled all the way back is at least double. Also, the trigger on the Iwata is nicer than the Paasche -- on the Paasche, I feel like I always want to pull the trigger back further than I need to, where as on the Iwata, the amount that I pull back to paint small areas feels just right. Of course, that's just me, and I'm sure there are people who feel the other way.

Incidentally, another worthy airbrush is the Iwata HP Plus C. it is 0.30mm, and comes with the preset handle. The preset handle is nice, but the 0.30 is both a plus and minus -- it's a little finer, but makes it a little less forgiving to use with non-airbrush paints that you're putting in there.

Good luck, and let us know what way you go!

 Gunzhard wrote:
The tank simply holds the air so your compressor doesn't need to constantly run. Some say it delivers the air differently as well but I haven't found that.

It's a lot more than "some say".

From a pure physics standpoint, the pressure reaching your MAC valve or drybreak quick coupling, or just the end of your hose, varies when the pistons are moving.

On a compressor with a tank, those pistons are just not moving part of the time, and the other part of the time, the pressure wave coming from the piston sees its force spread across a 3L tank, with only a tiny part of it actually going through the hose.

Now I've never had a compressor without a tank and I'm probably not at the level where I could even notice the difference, but it's guaranteed to be there.

But if the regulator can deal with the pressure variation from the piston while the compressor maintains the upstream pressure high enough to let the regulator work, wouldn't the air you see coming out of your airbrush just be the same as for a tanked compressor?

I don't know, I haven't used an untanked compressor... I've been told there's not really any difference in the air that comes out of the brush unless you want a high flow rate (the compressor can't maintain a high flow at high pressure, but it can charge a tank that can do it for a limited time).

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
But if the regulator can deal with the pressure variation from the piston while the compressor maintains the upstream pressure high enough to let the regulator work, wouldn't the air you see coming out of your airbrush just be the same as for a tanked compressor?

If it's a proper regulator that takes anything in and gives a specific pressure out with zero reaction time, yes it would be the same when the compressor is running, still (maybe not measurably) worse than a tank compressor that is not running

I'm not familiar with the different types of pressure regulators.

k so as far as clogging goes, ive bought like 3-4 china made airbrushes. cheap cheap, 15-20 dollars each or w.e. once i do get a better one, what are some recommendations to prevent clogging and what are some suggestions as to how to fix a clogged airbrush?

I bought what I believe is a decent airbrush and compressor a few years back, and they are both sitting in the packages they came in.

Where are you people getting arbrushes for under $20 ?

Maybe I'll get 1 of those to beat on while I learn and take out the nicer one when I'm a bit more confident.

wargamingultimate wrote:might be a dumb question but why is the air tank so critical? i have just a regular compressor and someone suggested and it works fine.

From what I understand, compressors with tanks tend to reduce pulsing and the flow is more even-keeled. Most artists I've spoken to, read, or watched on YouTube have all mentioned that a tank is recommended. From what I can tell, it doesn't make much difference in price as most compressors $100 or more tend to come with them.

Talys wrote:I have the Badger TC910. It's currently $186 on Amazon, including free shipping in the USA:

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417061428&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+compressor

Or, you can get it at Michaels for about the same price, if you find a 50% coupon. It has a 3L tank, has a proper moisture trap/regulator, and is the "upgraded" hobby style, where the assembly is wrapped in a metal case to reduce movement, vibration, and burning yourself by accidentally touching a hot part.

A couple of people on the forum have bought this now, I think happily so

Definitely liking that Badger model. Had my eye on it when I was considering the Iwata Smart Jet, but its just hard to dive into those $200 compressors now that I know there are compressors out there, with a tank and all the bells and whistles for $80-$100. I'm still trying to figure out the massive disparity in price. Can't just be brand recognition, can it??

Talys wrote:One big plus with the HP-CS, compared to the Paasche Talon 0.38mm (I own both) is that the HP-CS takes much less time to clean. Partly, this is because even though the needle is smaller (0.35mm), the amount of paint that can flow through when the needle is pulled all the way back is at least double. Also, the trigger on the Iwata is nicer than the Paasche -- on the Paasche, I feel like I always want to pull the trigger back further than I need to, where as on the Iwata, the amount that I pull back to paint small areas feels just right. Of course, that's just me, and I'm sure there are people who feel the other way.

Incidentally, another worthy airbrush is the Iwata HP Plus C. it is 0.30mm, and comes with the preset handle. The preset handle is nice, but the 0.30 is both a plus and minus -- it's a little finer, but makes it a little less forgiving to use with non-airbrush paints that you're putting in there.

Good luck, and let us know what way you go!

I went out and purchased an HP-CS from Hobby Lobby that opened down the street from me recently (40% off store-opening coupon! Woo!). What would be a good complimentary airbrush to use alongside the HP-CS for beginners?

 adamsouza wrote:
I bought what I believe is a decent airbrush and compressor a few years back, and they are both sitting in the packages they came in.

Where are you people getting arbrushes for under $20 ?

Maybe I'll get 1 of those to beat on while I learn and take out the nicer one when I'm a bit more confident.

Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Airbrush-Kit-0-3mm-Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-Spray-Gun-Air-Brush-Set-Tattoo-/111495888834?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f5ac3fc2

It's not less than $20, its $13 shipping included.




Automatically Appended Next Post:

 hybridmoments82 wrote:

I went out and purchased an HP-CS from Hobby Lobby that opened down the street from me recently (40% off store-opening coupon! Woo!). What would be a good complimentary airbrush to use alongside the HP-CS for beginners?

I own an HP-CS and I haven't felt the need for anything else, except maybe a much wider angle spray gun for terrain jobs, but that doesn't make much sense as it would require a bigger compressor to work I believe.

As far as name brushes over cheap brushes, some cheap ones work fine. Name one all work within reason of each other. They get the job done.

When I chose mine I went cheap first and it was a big mistake. Never held pressure. All types of problems after that. After some research I went with a somewhat local airbrush maker. I live just outside Chicago and two of the name brands come out of there. Paasche and Badger. I went Paasche Talon and never looked back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche-Talon-Dual-Action-Airbrush-TG-2L-NIB-/390946040578?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b06332b02

Not too expensive and does a great job.

One guy told me there's almost no difference between tanked and tankless for most spraying, but tankless you can't have high pressure with high flow rates, a tanked compressor can do it because the compressor charges the tank to a higher pressure than it can actually maintain while air is flowing, which can be useful from time to time.

I tend to believe him because he's tried a lot of different hardware and paints some really awesome looking historic scale aircraft,

 hybridmoments82 wrote:

I went out and purchased an HP-CS from Hobby Lobby that opened down the street from me recently (40% off store-opening coupon! Woo!). What would be a good complimentary airbrush to use alongside the HP-CS for beginners?

I wouldn't worry about another airbrush as you learn. Essentially, you'll want more airbrushed for 3 different reasons:

1. You want to work on more than one color at a tome, without cleaning out the airbrush each time. If you want to work with 3 colors simultaneously (alternating between them) you need 3 airbrushed, and either a quick connect or a manifold (splitter). Keep in mind the paint does dry, so you need to keep the little lids on to help a bit.

2. You want to do more precise work. In this case, you will want something like an Iwata HP-BH. But, learn with the CS first, as the learning curve is a bit steep. Also keep in mind that masking fluid cares not what needle size you use.

3. You want to paint larger objects, like terrain. In this case, both a larger needle and a siphon cup airbrush make a big difference. You will bow through a 1/3 oz grav cup so fast it isn't funny, on terrain.

But, you really need to be able to paint straight lines and dots exactly where you want them before you go finer.

Talys wrote:

 hybridmoments82 wrote:

I went out and purchased an HP-CS from Hobby Lobby that opened down the street from me recently (40% off store-opening coupon! Woo!). What would be a good complimentary airbrush to use alongside the HP-CS for beginners?

I wouldn't worry about another airbrush as you learn. Essentially, you'll want more airbrushed for 3 different reasons:

1. You want to work on more than one color at a tome, without cleaning out the airbrush each time. If you want to work with 3 colors simultaneously (alternating between them) you need 3 airbrushed, and either a quick connect or a manifold (splitter). Keep in mind the paint does dry, so you need to keep the little lids on to help a bit.

2. You want to do more precise work. In this case, you will want something like an Iwata HP-BH. But, learn with the CS first, as the learning curve is a bit steep. Also keep in mind that masking fluid cares not what needle size you use.

3. You want to paint larger objects, like terrain. In this case, both a larger needle and a siphon cup airbrush make a big difference. You will bow through a 1/3 oz grav cup so fast it isn't funny, on terrain.

But, you really need to be able to paint straight lines and dots exactly where you want them before you go finer.

Yeah, the big thing I'm noticing is I don't "see" where my paint is going to land like I would with a brush. It seems more like precision target practice than anything else.

Yikes! That HP-BH looks like it has a tiny hopper compared to the CS! Do you find yourself constantly needing to refill?