Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I usually put a penny on the bottom of my bases to heep them on the table. But when I was assembling my DE wyches, I realised that I couldn't because they have slotted bases. So how do I go about weighing down slotted bases besides sticking a coin on the bottom and having the models stick up above its original height

I would suggest gluing sand down. The only other thing I can think of is lead shot, but you'd have to find it/buy it.

Lead shavings would be awesome. We used to have heaps at a Mesh and Bar (concrete suppliers) place I once worked at. It's only going in the bin and is fine as sand or dust.

You need weighted bases? Are they old metal models?

2P coin glued to base, it raises the model up a mm ish, and adds a mm and a ish to base size however it weights it down and glues to edge of 25mm base rim.

Can you cut the coin in half? Or small flat fishing sinkers?

I'm not a fan of the way coins raise the model. The main models I like to weigh down are my Hormagaunts and they have a slotta base so it's hard to fit stuff under there. But you can get small fishing sinkers quite cheap, I imagine in the USA that Walmart would carry them dirt cheap.

Modeling clay pressed into the gaps gives a bit of weight. Plenty for plastic wyches.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
You need weighted bases? Are they old metal models?

This is also my question.

Lead sinkers for fishing. With a small pair of clippers and pliers, it's easy to shape and flatten them enough to fit flush under the base. Glue as many as you need around the edge.

Second on split-shot lead sinkers. They are dirt cheap, and with a pair of pliers you can crush 'em flat enough for damn near any base. You clippers, flush cutters, or even a sturdy razor can cut through them like they're nothing, so trimming them down is a cinch.

Place base upside down,

fill the space with lead shot

fill with wood glue or super glue of your choice

sand flush if needed

pretty simple.

Using small bolt cutters (cheap!):

Get an appropriately sized fender washer (washer with smaller thru hole) (between 1" and 3/4"), cut in half.
Glue into base, done.

Personally, I cut out the slots and put and put a washer in there anyway.

As for the model, I just pin the feet. They are gonna break off and need pinned sooner or later anyway.

Super Newb wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
You need weighted bases? Are they old metal models?

This is also my question.

Some plastic models are just not balanced that well (Pink Horrors for example). And when combined with less than flat surfaces on some tables it can be challenging to get them to stand up. Pink Horrors of Tzeentch are a bit forward-leaning in general, and when you add the Icon or Instrument to that model it can cause it to fall over even on completely flat surfaces. On those models I glued nickels to the underside of the base.

I can't stand using coins or washers mounted flush with/proud of the bottom of a base. The hollow cup shape is a godsend, in terms of stability on uneven ground and ability to grip textured (especially slanted) surfaces. A model that slides down the gentlest slope isn't much better than one that tumbles down! That's about as strong a reason as cost for my never using cast resin bases, which invariably come from single-sided molds.

If I can do it subtly, I weight the top of the base with heavier basing materials - rocks and the like. Doesn't have to be a ton, just enough to counterbalance the model's lean. This preserves that oh so practical shape on the underside.

If I need even more weight or the base needs to be bare to look coherent, I'll use lead (tire weights, split sinkers, air gun pellets, etc) or chunks of white metal sprues from old metal models. Squished down, if necessary, they add a decent bit of weight without completely filling the cavity - a reasonably happy medium, IMO.

 oadie wrote:
I can't stand using coins or washers mounted flush with/proud of the bottom of a base. The hollow cup shape is a godsend, in terms of stability on uneven ground and ability to grip textured (especially slanted) surfaces. A model that slides down the gentlest slope isn't much better than one that tumbles down! That's about as strong a reason as cost for my never using cast resin bases, which invariably come from single-sided molds.

If I can do it subtly, I weight the top of the base with heavier basing materials - rocks and the like. Doesn't have to be a ton, just enough to counterbalance the model's lean. This preserves that oh so practical shape on the underside.

If I need even more weight or the base needs to be bare to look coherent, I'll use lead (tire weights, split sinkers, air gun pellets, etc) or chunks of white metal sprues from old metal models. Squished down, if necessary, they add a decent bit of weight without completely filling the cavity - a reasonably happy medium, IMO.

Sounds like an excuse to start a scenic pewter hollow cup base company

 jhe90 wrote:
2P coin glued to base, it raises the model up a mm ish, and adds a mm and a ish to base size however it weights it down and glues to edge of 25mm base rim.

OP is American

Slot car lead weights, it's thin soft metal with one side that's sticky, it's the best stuff to use.

thanks. I will look into the lead shot, or the clay.

I would like to weigh down my bases because you never know, and if a wych's ankle breaks because of a fall, I probably would be able to fix it without breaking something with rage, and its pretty satisfying to hold a heavy model

 Desubot wrote:

 oadie wrote:
[more than necessary]

Sounds like an excuse to start a scenic pewter hollow cup base company

I'm a tool whore and a creature of habit, not an entrepeneur. Sounds more like an excuse to get some Forstner bits (no guide to punch through the middle, like with spade bits) to use on resin bases that I'll weight as I always have, to me. Or just keep making my own, because rea$on$.

Super Newb wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
You need weighted bases? Are they old metal models?

This is also my question.

Modern plastic Hormagaunts (among other models) need weighting.

I weight every single model a little bit (used to be a lot!) just to make each model feel better as a game piece. Im unique in this regard, but I feel the gaming utility of each piece is the most important part.

Honestly I usually cut the slot stuff out of the bases with a sprue cutter. Then I take a dremal and get all the excess that I couldn't reach with the cutters. What I am left with is a a base similar to a stock base with no slot. Of course it still has the hole in it, but you can cover that up with a piece of plasticard. From there I glue my nickles in place like normal.

Of course this means you got to pin the hormaguant in place though. I usually take a small dremal bit and make a hole in one of the hooves and insert a piece of wire. I glue it to the bottom of the base before putting the coin place. Works pretty good, but it takes some work.

 Lord Scythican wrote:
Honestly I usually cut the slot stuff out of the bases with a sprue cutter. Then I take a dremal and get all the excess that I couldn't reach with the cutters. What I am left with is a a base similar to a stock base with no slot. Of course it still has the hole in it, but you can cover that up with a piece of plasticard. From there I glue my nickles in place like normal.

Nickles!? I bet you have a giant vault of them and swim in them like Scrooge McDuck did.

Since most 1" washers cost about nickel apiece, plus the cost to go buy them, it's not that big a deal.

Super Newb wrote:

 Lord Scythican wrote:
Honestly I usually cut the slot stuff out of the bases with a sprue cutter. Then I take a dremal and get all the excess that I couldn't reach with the cutters. What I am left with is a a base similar to a stock base with no slot. Of course it still has the hole in it, but you can cover that up with a piece of plasticard. From there I glue my nickles in place like normal.

Nickles!? I bet you have a giant vault of them and swim in them like Scrooge McDuck did.

Well not a vault but a bunch in a jar.

Well supposedly two pennies on the base weighs the same. I will probably start using them. I use nickles because it is just one bond but pennies would be cheaper. :/

As for washers, yeah they are about a nickle each. I wonder what their weight is compared to coins?

rigeld2 wrote:
Since most 1" washers cost about nickel apiece, plus the cost to go buy them, it's not that big a deal.

y you ruin joke? If I had a nickel everytime someone ruined one of my jokes I'd be as rich as Lord Scythican.

rigeld2 wrote:
Since most 1" washers cost about nickel apiece, plus the cost to go buy them, it's not that big a deal.

Hardware surplus store! Nothing like washers by the pound.

If you don't need the model to attach via the slot part, why not just remove it with a pair of clippers from beneath? Then shave any bumps down with a hobby knife or file it flat. Then glue the penny in.