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Though I am loathe to admit it, I am thinking about using GW's Eldar stransfers for some of my vehicles.  To tell the truth, they look good in the design department to me, but I am not well-versed in the areas of decals.  Also, i don't really have the time to sit down and paint those small details if they have already been done for me.

So, does anyone have any good advice for using GW transfers?  I know they are a bit thicker than standard transfers.  I have experience using Griffon Games custom decals, but am unsure how GW's will compare to those.

I have Micro-Set and Micro-Sol for using transfers, and I know it would be best to put down a coat of varnish (gloss or matte?) onto the area where the transfer is to be applied.

Any other advice? Words of wisdom?  Thanks much.

 

If they are the same old transfers, they come out a bit thick to the point where
you can see the edges. I don't know what the fix for that is, though.

Here is your ticket to success, Grimteef.

After long hours of painting, why settle for crappy results with transfers?

www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp

and some instructions:

www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/82400i/decal_finishing.html

God bless Micromark, is all I have to say.

I have alot of the older GW transfers for eldar and this works quite well for me. It gets rid of that damn layer of film it has really well.

yep - use the Micro-Set and Micro-Sol and coat of gloss varnish as a base.

Thomas

Yep, follow the micro mark instructions...

1. Gloss Coat
2. Micro-Set
3. Micro-Sol
4. Gloss Coat
5. Matte Coat

Be sure to test this system with a GW decal on a test surface first to make sure there aren't any adverse reactions to the micro-set and micro-sol.

Thanks guys, yet another thing I have to buy. This hobby is a never-ending list of things to buy and to do.

Its not required, but it does help a crap load, thats for sure.

Can you buy that stuff in the UK or is it only US?

Funny, I was thinking of posting a thread about having serious issues applying decals to my near finished Marines.

All I want to use are the chapter symbols, the arrow markings, and a few of the numbers, do I really have to use all these sets, and use a gloss coat to get them to work? The only trouble I'm having is that the decal won't bend all the way around the shoulder pads in both directions.

Yes, the only way to actually solve your problem is to follow the instructions as previously posted. As strange as it sounds, the gloss coat lets the decal sit (and therefore stick) better, including bending all the way around. The microset further aids this, along with the microsol (which actually thins the decal some). It's not very hard and only takes a little more planning ahead.

on a completely flat surface, you could get by with just the preliminary gloss coat, decal and top coat. The preliminary gloss coat makes the surface smoother which helps with a couple of things. It makes sure that no air is trapped under the decal (known as silvering) and it gives a greater contact are for the decal to adhere to.

On curved areas such as Marine shoulder pads, the Micro-Set will further help with decal adhesion. The Micro-Sol will actually melt the decal a little and allow it to confrom to the surface and curves of the shoulder pad. The follow on top coat will help hide the edges of the decal.

Of course you don't HAVE to do this to get the decals to stick, but they will more than likely silver and wrinkle.

Keep in mind that the gloss coat can be as simple as a couple of coats of a liquid acrylic floor wax (Future in the US) applied to the area of interest before you apply the decal. Then follow it up with another coat of future after the decal sets and dries, and then your final gloss coat or flat coat. (Further painting hint there...use Future on any area you want to be especially shiny after your matte coat dries - sword blades, bare metal areas, gems, lenses, etc. - in order to make them pop out and give the model a more realistic appearance)