Switch Theme:

Stupid Mold Lines  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Darkwolf






New Hampshire

Any tips for getting rid of these on plastic models? X-Acto can only get me so far, and a file seems kind of clumsy at times.
   
Made in de
Rampaging Carnifex






Franconia

Sandpaper is sometines a good weapon of choice.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/03/22 07:11:35


I know when it is closing time. - Rascal Mod

"Some people measure common sense with a ruler others with a potato."- Making Money Terry Pratchett
"what's with all the hate go paint something you lazy bastards" - NAVARRO
"You don't need pants for the victory dance." -BAWTRM
 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Zealand

gently scrape with a blade for curved surfaces, and/or file down with needle files - get some of the really small ones for awkward areas. Sandpaper is good for large bits, e.g. tank hulls.

Once it's visually smooth, i always use fine steel wool to smooth it down further, thus helping the surface to still look smooth when painted
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

I use a variety of files with curved or rounded faces. It allows me a great deal of control and is actually quite speedy. Also, files help much where the mold has slipped a little and I'm dealing with a "ledge" or carry instead of simple flash/mold line.

 
   
Made in us
Clousseau





Wilmington DE

Agree with Breotan. Scrape/shave carefully with the backside (i.e. the blunt side) of a hobby knife, then file with a rounded file. That way you eliminate the mold line without destroying the detail.

Also: after you prime, consider doing a quick drybrush with a lighter color (say, bestial brown or codex gray or the like). That way, any mold lines you missed will show up.

Guinness: for those who are men of the cloth and football fans, but not necessarily in that order.

I think the lesson here is the best way to enjoy GW's games is to not use any of their rules.--Crimson Devil 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





San Jose, CA

Quick way for the small or light mold lines (again- only the smaller ones) you can use plastic glue to "melt" the lines away. Just brush it on and let it do its work.

Again, this works only for the less protrusive lines, or as an alternative to filing and sandpapering after you've taken an x-acto blade to the model.
   
Made in us
40kenthus






Yoor Speeshawl too Gawd!

Squadron makes a nifty little tool called a seam scraper that is designed specifically to remove mold lines quickly and easily. It is the best tool for the job you will ever get.

Only now do I realize how much I prefer Pete Haines' "misprints" to Gav Thorpe's "brainfarts." :Abadabadoobaddon 
   
Made in us
Clousseau





Wilmington DE

I think there's also a question as to how damaging the mold line is (though this pertains more to metal than plastic figs). If it's on an outer leg, or down the middle of the head, it's one thing, but if it's on the inside of a loin cloth that you can only see by flipping the fig upside down? How much effort do you want to put into cleaning up a rank & file figure, really? Obviously, this depends on location of mold line, how many figs are on the table (I'm going to put more effort into the individual figs for my 6-model Naresh force for Chainmail than I am for my 90 man IG army), rank&file vs. leader, etc., but it's something to consider.

Guinness: for those who are men of the cloth and football fans, but not necessarily in that order.

I think the lesson here is the best way to enjoy GW's games is to not use any of their rules.--Crimson Devil 
   
Made in us
Darkwolf






New Hampshire

That's probably one of the few things that suck with Terminators... The stupid mold line on the arm wiring and joint webbing. As much as I try to hide it, it always seems to show up. Maybe it's just me knowing it's there and thus having my eye drawn to it... I'll have to bring 'em down to the shop and see if anyone else notices. If not, I guess I'm good. Thanks for all the help guys!!!
   
Made in nl
Stalwart Skittari




Wit' dem umies in da good battle

for me a vile works great....

Dem GOrk E' Da MOrk are Du Bezt  
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior





Pennsylvania

I've cut sandpaper into thin stipps (I use 180 grit ) Put the bit or fig in a "soft" jaw vise (i modified my own w/rubber) & sand the mold line like polishing a shoe. I've been able to get underneath the "lip" of molded shoulder pads. Hope that helps.

"Before I have to hit him I hope he has the sense to run" Jerry Garcia
"Blood is Freedom's Stain" Bruce Dickinson/Steve Harris  
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: